Maa and Paa's 56 Effie.

[HappyOne]

Fixed it for you nassi

Thanks Kerry, this is becomming a habit lately. Saved by the cavalry twice in one week.

Ah it's a shit getting old hey !!

first the eyes go on ya

then the fingers dont act quick enough

next thing ya willy drops off


Better get up really easy in the morning Nasi !!
:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:

[ozbilt]

next thing ya willy drops off

Heard that happened to a few after a Hong Kong trip....

[nassi]

Fixed it for you nassi

Thanks Kerry, this is becomming a habit lately. Saved by the cavalry twice in one week.

Ah it's a shit getting old hey !!

first the eyes go on ya

then the fingers dont act quick enough

next thing ya willy drops off


Better get up really easy in the morning Nasi !!
:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:

You will keep..... for about a week if your salted. :rotfl:

[HappyOne]

next thing ya willy drops off

Heard that happened to a few after a Hong Kong trip....

Hey taking sides is not allowed!!

Besides that's not funny - ok yes it is

:rotfl: :rotfl:

[jusTANG]

Fixed it for you nassi

Thanks Kerry, this is becomming a habit lately. Saved by the cavalry twice in one week.

Got to look after the old blokes that like pockets...

that reminds me, need to chase up them about the pockets and the T's

[nassi]

You will be pleased to hear that I now have 3, yes 3 brand new club shirts with pockets. Thanks to Craige Mike and Rob.
cheers

[Shaunp]

Hev
when you rebuild the jag front end couple of things you need to know.
Firstly bottom balljoints are rebuildable, you can buy a kit with new upper and lower seat, pack of shims and ball. Problem is most kits now don't have a hard chrome ball, but a rough as one, made on a cnc lathe. These are often pretty crapy and chop out the bottom seat. You can linish them up a bit. The other option is to use XJ40 lower joints they have the same bolt pattern, You can use these in all jags back to the 50's as they are backward compatible. They have smaller balls though, I would use the XJ40 units sealed for life and last well if you buy good ones, not expensive. Tops again they are alll the same from 1950 on etc for e types.

Top inner bushes are special, they are multi piece low fiction bush, they have teflon coated parts in them, not cheap, about $40 per bush X 4 If you use these pull them apart and grease them.

I don't noramally say this but a jag front is very strong due it's fordged arms, and Nolethane actually works well in them, only car I know where I would say use it. It's way cheaper then the factory top bushes, but has more fiction than the stock uppers.

Lastly if you are using the Jag rack, the rack mount bushes are also special, most blokes think they are stuffed when new as they allow the rack to move a few mm each way. This is what they are designed to do. Either side of the bush is a rubber coated washer for the rack to hit and stop it. These bushes take all the road shock from the steering. You can buy Nolethane for this as well, but you will find the rack mounts will work harden and crack off the cross member. The Jag lower steering col also has a double cardin joint to allow for the rack to move a bit. If you use Nolethan in the rack you need to brace and over plate the rack mounts on the crossmemeber or they will break for sure in time
Jag racks come in 2 ratios, the quick rack is the short nose ones fitted only V12 XJS coupes this is the one you want. 2.3 turns lock to lock. When buying a rack make sure the lock dowel in the input shaft is not flogged out. This locks the spline to the torsion bar that drives the valve body and pinion. It basically allows no power steer a cople of degree's either side of centre. When they are flooged they are all over the place on the road. To centre the rack remove the grease nipple in the rack aduster and stick in a cut off 3" nail to lock it in the middle. The racks are easy to rebuild, I've done heaps, seal kit is cheap.
Another mistake made with Jag front ends is the shims on the top ball joint these are used to set the caster they must be there and you must have the correct number or it will flog the top bushes

[jusTANG]

good to see, Shaun you got the thread back on track.

[HEVEN67]

Thanks Shaun, I got all the stuff for a full reco front end, balljoints bushes for everything, the guy at cathouse spares in Rydamere, he said its best to use the original stuff so thats the way I went, I was only wondering about the camber..how do they adjust it?
Ohh and tes its set up for air bags all round, I have some ceramic coated tune length shorty headrs in transit ill get a move on the firewall and the major work on the frount guards cause Ive moved the front wheel base forward 6", just not sure about the color, Christ! They werent talking about painting the truck when when Maa and Super88 were talking about the pink!....they were talking about the PINK

[68pony]

Christ! They werent talking about painting the truck when when Maa and Super88 were talking about the pink!....they were talking about the PINK

Oh i see , i like PINK

[moe]

Any updates Hev???

[Shaunp]

Thanks Shaun, I got all the stuff for a full reco front end, balljoints bushes for everything, the guy at cathouse spares in Rydamere, he said its best to use the original stuff so thats the way I went, I was only wondering about the camber..how do they adjust it?
Ohh and tes its set up for air bags all round, I have some ceramic coated tune length shorty headrs in transit ill get a move on the firewall and the major work on the frount guards cause Ive moved the front wheel base forward 6", just not sure about the color, Christ! They werent talking about painting the truck when when Maa and Super88 were talking about the pink!....they were talking about the PINK

You shim the camber on the top arm bolts, you can do caster here as well. you will also see shims on the top ball joint these are for caster you must have the corect number you just mover them from one side of the ball joint to the other.