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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Hermits Restomod > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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jbb
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More now on engine install.
Early fitting showed that the alternator needed to be moved slightly, so i fabricated new brackets .
Also As soon as i had gotten the engine, i could tell that the factory oil cooler would not fit without cutting the chassis rails, so I installed a remote oil cooler and filter setup.



Gearbox Member was an aftermarket unit and fitted well.


Tail-shaft length was measured and a new 3" shaft ordered and installed.


Battery tray was removed and I Made a new one and installed lower to have room above for the Air filter.


The radiator panel received some additional holes ( made to match the factory holes there on the RH side of the apron) to allow more airflow into the filter intake. It was re-installed and checked, then finish welded.




Measurements and clearances were checked in the engine bay and selections made on Radiator, fans, coolant tanks etc.

pics to come


Last edited by jbb on Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:23 pm; edited 1 time in total

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jbb
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here we go again.
Once i refitted the radiator support panel, i measured up and researched what radiator i could buy off the shelf that would suit my needs. I ended up finding that i could use a Subaru Liberty turbo radiator.
Right dimensions and correct inlet/outlet pipe diameters. They also use a twin electric fan setup.
I found suppliers through eBay that sold the radiators and fans new.



The radiator and engine pipework require an overflow tank setup which is used to fill the coolant also.
Again after some research, a new Canton tank was ordered from the US.




I found NOS mustang supercharger overflow bottle and cap ( separately) on US eBay and got them sent over.

The plan was always to give the engine bay a kind of factory feel to it, thus avoiding bling .


As the engine has a factory air/water intercooler, i needed to find space for the intercooler and pump.
I had always planned to fit it behind the front apron, which was best done in conjunction with an R code valance. I got the valance first and fitted it up, so that i could measure up and see how big an intercooler i could use. I discovered that i needed to modify the brace that supports the hood latch assembly ( can't think of the correct name).


I worked out how to do this and ordered the cooler.
Being a water intercooler it was fairly simple running the hoses- Luckily only 5/8 water hose rather than chunky air piped !! I utilised the uncoil hose springs to assist in keeping shape to the hose where i needed to make bends. The pump was mounted under the RH guard behind the battery tray.






Next instalment - wiring


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boofhead
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good information. thanks.
loving this build.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Dwayne
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How is the Subaru radiator going with cooling down the bigger V8?


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jbb
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Dwayne wrote
How is the Subaru radiator going with cooling down the bigger V8?


Fine so far, but only done under 1000km on the road.

Car runs at 195F/90C and barely moves temp when driven hard.
Fans drop temp almost instantly.

jbb


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Husky65
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Yeah nice work, you can really tell you've done your research well when ordering your parts. Makes a world of difference.


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jbb
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Thanks Husky


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boofhead
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So how did you come to the subaru radiator?


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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ozbilt
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Remember it is the speed of the water going in and out that makes the difference. You can have a large rad but if the water is going through too fast, it does not get time to cool.


Kerry

Not all heroes wear capes, some wear scuba tanks and swim by feel ........

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Husky65
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ozbilt wrote
Remember it is the speed of the water going in and out that makes the difference. You can have a large rad but if the water is going through too fast, it does not get time to cool.


Pretty sure that's an old wives tale. It's a closed system, so heat transfer occurs continuously regardless of water speed. I know the old idea of fitting restrictors to the thermostat housing to 'slow down the water speed', but the advantages actually came from increased pressure in the block, not reducing water speed.


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Shaunp
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Increase in pressure reduces spot boiling.


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jbb
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boofhead wrote
So how did you come to the subaru radiator?


Hi Boof.

I wanted to find what was the biggest standardised radiator that would fit the space , had the hose outlets the correct size and location for the DOHC motor, and should handle the V8.
Also needed to be without filler.

I didn't want the expense of a custom radiator and wanted to basically buy an economical off the shelf item, especially if it ever needed to be replaced.

I started with a website that i can no longer find Wall Bash ,that listed tons of radiators with specs/sizes.
Started with looking for outlet size/location and then went from there looking for overall size/core size. I ended up finding the Subaru radiator, then looked for an all alloy version of it.

I compared core sizes for a late model falcon V8 with the Subaru one.

The core size for a standard V8 falcon one was 418 x 650 x 26 and an aftermarket heavy duty one has a 50mm core

The Subaru one is 395 x 670 x 40.

i think that works out to the Subaru having about a 33% larger overall core area than the standard V8, but about 20% less than an aftermarket heavy-duty V8 radiator.
That sealed it for me in my logic of being suitable for cooling my V8.

Hopefully I'm not wrong come summer, but I'm fairly confident.

Hope that my logic makes sense to everyone.

jbb


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ozbilt
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Husky65 wrote
ozbilt wrote
Remember it is the speed of the water going in and out that makes the difference. You can have a large rad but if the water is going through too fast, it does not get time to cool.


Pretty sure that's an old wives tale. It's a closed system, so heat transfer occurs continuously regardless of water speed. I know the old idea of fitting restrictors to the thermostat housing to 'slow down the water speed', but the advantages actually came from increased pressure in the block, not reducing water speed.


I would think that the newer pumps are a slower feed than the old time pumps, possibly because an aluminium rad is not as efficient as a copper one (although lighter and less expensive for the manufacturer).

So regardless of the pressure inside, the time the fluid is exposed to the cooling action of the core, must make a difference.


Kerry

Not all heroes wear capes, some wear scuba tanks and swim by feel ........

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Ausjacko
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Do we want to talk about airspeed past the cooling fins in the core? If you slow the air down and increase the surface area facing the airflow it can absorb more heat, therefore increase the efficiency of the cooling fins. Jaguar did this a while back in the e-type when it slanted the radiator back, thereby decreasing (from 180 deg) the angle of the fins to the airflow and presenting more of the fin to the airflow. Reduced speed and increased presented surface area led to a greater ability to absorb heat and therefore increase cooling efficiency.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Nuts
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You scare me Jacko! This is almost technical stuff you're writing!!


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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