Sorry Ed, crossing diagrams pisses me off big time. I did try but the beer has fogged my glasses. I will look again tomorrow with a clearer head. Honestly I am not sure which way you are numbering the connector.
When the ignition or accessories is on, power comes out of the heater fuse through the brown wire, out of the plug to the heater motor. The PO has taken power from this wire on the firewall side to power the reverse lights.
However, above this plug on the firewall is a 4 wire harness that is meant to connect to the Neutral Safety Switch and Reverse Lights as Nuts pointed out. 2 wires (both Red/Blue) are connected to the Neutral lockout, a 3rd wire (Black/Red) turns on the reverse lights when you add power, however there is a plain black wire that did nothing. When I jumped across the top fuse, the black wire turned the test light on. Wiggled the fuse and it worked, seems the rust in there was stopping the connection.
One more piece of the puzzle sorted (I hope)!
66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Mon Feb 05, 2018 5:15 pm; edited 2 times in total
Thanks guys, I'll check tomorrow arvo. I think the coil was red so I'll go with that, at least then I know it's only on with the ignition.
Friday I'm off all day so now that I have all the wiring chased and working I'm cutting off the rusty fuse holder and replacing it with a new blade holder. I didn't want to do that until I knew everything worked like it was before (including the washer which is a crook switch and the heater which is rotted wiring at the motor which explains why the PO left the fuse out there).
66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Mon Feb 05, 2018 9:59 pm; edited 3 times in total
Pretty sure its the ignition wire Ed. It's the only way the choke can get power from that connector.
BTW Daryl, I measured the coil voltage with a bulb when on and it had the same voltage in the On and Start positions so I assume someone has already bypassed or removed the resistor wire behind the dash. I'll remove the old MSD coil that needs a resistor and swap it for the MSD Blaster 3 I have.
Today I finished wiring the new fuse box, then spent the rest of the day trying to slow the wiper motor down. To get engineered under VSB14 (NS and ACT) you have to have two speed wipers. These were an option which my car did not have. I priced a 2nd hand 2 speed motor (they don't make new ones), wiring harness and switch and it came to $450 delivered so I thought I'd see what I could come up with.
I tried a large resistor from Jaycar and one I had for LED motorbike indicators, but neither of these would work. I looked at kits at Jaycar and wiring circuits on line but nothing came up that would handle more than 0.5 amp let alone the 3-5 amps the wiper might see. Then I had a brainwave, I remembered using a light bulb in a circuit once to slow a motor down. I grabbed a 60W headlight bulb, chucked it in between the power and wiper switch and bingo, it slowed to about 2/3 speed.
So now I have the power feed coming in to a two way switch in my temporary centre console, power to centre, top out gives low speed (with the bulb wired in) bottom out gives high (normal) speed. Works a treat, the bulb only glows gently and doesn't get hot at all.
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