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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Edz 66 Convertible > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Edz66Vert
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Bought one of these this afternoon, $410 but small, 1100 cca for 5 seconds, then 550 CCA continuous. Can be mounted in any orientation so it's going under the front seat! This means my battery tray relocation goes and a couple of more holes to weld up in the engine bay, but nice and tidy!
L 250 W 97 H 206 12kg


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Edz66Vert
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Does anyone know what the black wire with the red stripe is that comes out with the four auto wires please? It's number 140 on the wiring picture but doesn't appear anywhere? Above the main disconnect.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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ozbilt
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Edz66Vert wrote
Bought one of these this afternoon, $410 but small, 1100 cca for 5 seconds, then 550 CCA continuous. Can be mounted in any orientation so it's going under the front seat! This means my battery tray relocation goes and a couple of more holes to weld up in the engine bay, but nice and tidy!
L 250 W 97 H 206 12kg


Mount it in the torque box. Your car lhd? Of so, mount it in the rh torque box and it is very close to the starter so the wires are short. Just a matter of cutting the top of the torque box out and making a false floor.

There are pics in my photobucket. I will post when I get home on Monday night


Kerry

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Dwayne
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ozbilt wrote
Edz66Vert wrote
Bought one of these this afternoon, $410 but small, 1100 cca for 5 seconds, then 550 CCA continuous. Can be mounted in any orientation so it's going under the front seat! This means my battery tray relocation goes and a couple of more holes to weld up in the engine bay, but nice and tidy!
L 250 W 97 H 206 12kg


Mount it in the torque box. Your car lhd? Of so, mount it in the rh torque box and it is very close to the starter so the wires are short. Just a matter of cutting the top of the torque box out and making a false floor.

There are pics in my photobucket. I will post when I get home on Monday night


Here's the link, I was measuring it up last night but the optima battery I had planned to use was too big. Your odyssey should be a good fit in there:

Battery in Torque Box


Last edited by Dwayne on Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:10 am; edited 1 time in total

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nassi
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Thanks Ed.


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nassi
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Edz66Vert wrote
Does anyone know what the black wire with the red stripe is that comes out with the four auto wires please? It's number 140 on the wiring picture but doesn't appear anywhere? Above the main disconnect.


It is the reverse light power from the park neutral switch.
Power comes from the fuse box through the switch to the revers lights.


Last edited by nassi on Sat Apr 29, 2017 10:06 am; edited 1 time in total

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Edz66Vert
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nassi wrote
Edz66Vert wrote
Does anyone know what the black wire with the red stripe is that comes out with the four auto wires please? It's number 140 on the wiring picture but doesn't appear anywhere? Above the main disconnect.


It is the reverse light power from the park neutral switch.
Power comes from the fuse box through the switch to the revers lights.

Wiring help
Thanks Nassi, some good pictures you posted to help, I'll save them on my garage PC were I have lots of useful stuff (saves going inside all the time when I get stuck for an idea).

Yes my girlfriend read the wiring diagram in the sun this morning and found 140. Ok, I have 5 wires coming out of the gearbox grommet in the firewall, I'm going to pull them back through the dash and re-run them to hide them. 2 are neutral lockout, 2 are reverse lights. not sure why there is another power feed (140 black/red) to the reverse lights? That 140 wire runs from the fuse block through the starter neutral switch and out to the reverse lights but is all only one wire? Not sure how Ford controlled the neutral start and reverse lights using only one wire?

Yes, great little battery, I was thinking of chucking it in the big box that runs across under the seat on the RHS so it's close to the starter and ready for RHD and then running an accessories / ignition fuse panel in the corner of the engine bay hidden where the battery used to sit. LHS of this channel I'll fit a sub under the seat. But I'll have a look at the torque box in the footwell, that may be a better option, it's a lovely small battery.

What's that channel called as the torque box seems to be that box under the guard that your feet rest on in the footwell?


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Sat Apr 29, 2017 1:48 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Edz66Vert
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This says it all! Only place I could find to stick it on the Vert, Rare spares sticker, there's also one I've had before that's on fleebay for $5-7 'Classic not Plastic'. I'll have to chat to my mate around the corner i the ACTSMA club, he's a sign writer and makes stickers all the time. If you need something done for a dash or console let me know and I'll organise it, just email me a jpg or something and he can print it for a very reasonable price. Also does cut outs like the 'Real Street'sticker Rares give away, so I might chat to him about getting 20 done and offer them to members on this forum for a cheap price if they're interested.


This is 2 he did for my club, the first one is silver cutout, the other is colour


BTW on Foxtel Turbo today, Overhaulin was doing a 67 Fastback build for a guy using one of those brand new repro bodies.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Sat Apr 29, 2017 2:37 pm; edited 2 times in total

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Dwayne
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Thinking your battery may be too wide to fit in the torque box on a 'vert due to the extra width of the inner sills. My coupe has around 270mm of width available there.

Would the 950/400CCA on the Odyssey PC950 be powerful enough for a 302? It's 50mm shorter than yours, so could easily be angled in line with the floor for a neater cavity fit for easier removal away from the heater box.


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Edz66Vert
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Okay Nuts, stop laughing and drink that red to keep you warm! It was 3 degrees in the garage at 11 am but now it's a lovely 16 in the sun now at 3 pm and feels like 20!

I've looked at the floor and other than the bit of butchering around the gearshift, and 3 rusty floor pans, the rest of the floor and sills are solid. So, the easy fix is cut out and weld in 3 new floor pans and repair the tunnel rather than cut the whole floor out. I can tig/mig it and make it neat and have fun cutting the rusty bits out with the plasma after I lie underneath (yuk) and wire brush all the horrible rubber deadener off otherwise it will catch fire!


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Dwayne
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I've been using a heat gun and multi-function tool with scraper attachment. Rips through the rubberised underbody crap in no time. Then just clean up what's left with paint stripper & wire wheel.


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Edz66Vert
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Dwayne wrote
Thinking your battery may be too wide to fit in the torque box on a 'vert due to the extra width of the inner sills. My coupe has around 270mm of width available there.

Would the 950/400CCA on the Odyssey PC950 be powerful enough for a 302? It's 50mm shorter than yours, so could easily be angled in line with the floor for a neater cavity fit for easier removal away from the heater box.

925 or 950 would be fine, 950 would be a better choice if you have decent compression, it's 400 cca continuous where the 925 is only 330. 950 will give 950 amps fr 5 secs and then drop back to 400 around 20 secs on, the 925 is 925/5 then 330 from 20 secs. Your call, if you can fit the 950 it's the better choice. Some of them also come in a metal case but you have to ask. The battery place I rang and chatted to quoted me $390 for a 925, bought the better and smaller 1100 on fleebay for $410 delivered.

I went for the 1100 because it's a lot smaller and 1100 cca for 5 secs, then drops back to 500 which is still huge (a bit dearer, but it's part of their extreme series)

If you think about it, how long do you crank your car to start? My 351 used to start with 2 pumps, auto choke in 2 seconds of cranking even in the middle of winter at -15C or 40C at Summernats in summer. Any longer than 5 seconds and the starter will start to get quite warm.

Check this out
Odyssey Battery specs and dimensions


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Edz66Vert
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Odyssey 925 info on Youtube


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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nassi
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Not sure why you would have 5 wires there Ed.
There should be a red-blue wire from the "S" terminal on the ignition switch which runs to the Park/Neutral switch and on to the starter relay.
The other two are the reverse lights from the fuse box through the Park/neutral switch then on to the reverse lights.
It must be an AOD thing as the C4 only has the 4 wires to and from the switch. Someone hasn't run the light for the shift indicator the long way around, have they?


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Edz66Vert
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[quote="jbb"]
Edz66Vert wrote
[quote="jbb"which engineer were you using???[/quote]
I was using John Wilson but I hear he's retiring soon which is a good thing as he charges $2k where I have just found an engineer in Newcastle (who rego actually like) who will do it for around $1k.

Yeah he is OK.
I'm sure he charges more for ACT rego cars because of the trouble the rego guys always give.

if you were rego in NSW i could give you another contact, but he won't deal with the ACT Nazis. Neutral

Who would that be? I'm actually going to register in NSW with their 60 day mod vehicle scheme, $70 yr, the car 'stays at a mate's place!' Next year winter is a right hand drive conversion with all new dash wiring and new floors.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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