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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Installing an AOD in a 66 > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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lukep6470
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It uses the same mount as a T5 so I doubt you will get away with the factory Mustang mount.


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Edz66Vert
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lukep6470 wrote
I'm running the B&M and have a ton of miles on it. It uses the stock input and output shaft.


When you say stock, does that mean they don't replace the standard two piece with a hardened one piece? I'm running a 408 that has around 450 ft/lbs and 425 hp and stock won't last long?


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Edz66Vert
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lukep6470 wrote
It uses the same mount as a T5 so I doubt you will get away with the factory Mustang mount.

Those measurements may be wrong then, I'll check my C6 this week?


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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lukep6470
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Edz66Vert wrote
lukep6470 wrote
I'm running the B&M and have a ton of miles on it. It uses the stock input and output shaft.


When you say stock, does that mean they don't replace the standard two piece with a hardened one piece? I'm running a 408 that has around 450 ft/lbs and 425 hp and stock won't last long?


No they don't it is the original two piece.

I'm running a 347 with 420 HP and it's done some brutal 1-2 chirpies with it and it has held up so far. I won't have any where near the torque of you though.


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Edz66Vert
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lukep6470 wrote
Edz66Vert wrote
lukep6470 wrote
I'm running the B&M and have a ton of miles on it. It uses the stock input and output shaft.


When you say stock, does that mean they don't replace the standard two piece with a hardened one piece? I'm running a 408 that has around 450 ft/lbs and 425 hp and stock won't last long?


No they don't it is the original two piece.

I'm running a 347 with 420 HP and it's done some brutal 1-2 chirpies with it and it has held up so far. I won't have any where near the torque of you though.


You have the B&M which I was looking at but it worries me as it seems they have dropped the ball on quality recently. I don't want to spend $3k only to have to pull it again. The only other quotes I have had have been for $5k locally for a 'hi hp built transmission' which I'm prepared to pay if it's done right. One is in Victoria the other two were local in Canberra (but I'm not confident they know all the intricacies of AOD's as the yanks talk a lot of tricky things that these guys weren't aware off or current with). The guy in Belconnen had built one for his tow truck which cops a lot of abuse but only behind a stock 351. Importing from the states will cost around $5k as freight is around $700. I read the feedback on the B&M on the Summit site from purchasers and they were both unhappy, this is 2 of the 3 reviews only 2 months ago:

Worst Experience!
BMM-114501
Installed first transmission and it didn't shift past second gear. Sent Car to local trans shop and they said trans was bad internally. Called for warranty and I had to remove and ship it to a transmission repair shop. They then sent me an another transmission 2 weeks later. Installed second transmission and then to find out they didn't install correct tail shaft bushing. So drive shaft would not slide in. Removed transmission tail shaft and sent to local trans shop for correct tail shaft bushing. Called and Emailed numerous time and after 2 months with No Help or compensation for my time, money or shipping cost I wrote this review. I have been buying B&M parts for 20 years and WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER PRODUCT FROM B&M! I Hope this helps somebody else to not waste their money or time with this company.
Reviewer: Randy from CA
Date: December 05, 2016
Do not buy!

BMM-114501
Had problems right away with shifting! Brought to transmission shop to find out all internal parts were hardly any better than stock and many parts were refurbished not new. Save your self the heart ache, don't buy this transmission! Buy any other brand!

Anyone recommend anyone in Sydney/NSW who can build a tough AOD as it's a long way to post a faulty one back to the USA.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Edz66Vert
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lukep6470 wrote
Hi,

You have to get the right flexplate or else the converter will be pushed into the pump on the transmission and possible damage it. I used this one: PIONEER PIFRA-205 Pioneer Heavy-Duty Flexplate 164 Tooth Suit Ford Windsor... That one is a 28oz balance. Before that plate I used one from an FMX on a Cleveland.


I'll keep that in mind but hopefully my current flexplate will fit, I've researched it a bit and have a number of articles from people fitting the AOD without problems who used the 351W flexplate. I'll bolt it up and see if it all slides together without force and gives me the recommended clearance between the converter pads and flexplate before I tighten it, I assume if I still have this clearance when the tranny is bolted up I won't damage the pump. Lentech recommend that a minimum 0.080", to a maximum 0.150" clearance exist between the converter mounting pads and
flywheel/converter mating surface.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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lukep6470
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I bought mine back when the dollar was over parity with the US and it was about $2K from VPW!!!

It certainly has at least an upgraded valvebody as it does't care how you have the TV cable set it always shifts firm. The TV cable for mine just determines how high it revs before changing.


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hybrid
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Position 1 will be first gear.
Position 2 will be 2nd and 3rd gear.
Position 3 will allow it to change into 4th.

This is assuming that the valve body is stock! If it's a B&M box, they may have changed the way it shifts.

On the stock configuration, to get it to hold second gear you have to do the "AOD Shuffle" - shift to position 2 to get it to change into second, then shift back to position 1 to hold it in second. Then shift back to position 2 to change into 3rd.

A lot of the aftermarket throttle bodies get rid of that though, and some of them use a solenoid to lock out 4th gear as well, so it behaves like a 3 speed. You then use a switch or something to control whether 4th gear is used or not.
I lock 4th gear out on mine unless I hit the motorway, or a long period of 80kph + road.


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Edz66Vert
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I found these recommended build specs on Click click racing in a sticky by Silverfox who they say is an AOD guru. This backs up what I have read on 3 other US transmission build sites that actually are prepared to list what mods they do to their box. It's a lot more than just throwing in some heavier clutches as B&M do. They also use a lot of other special/upgraded parts and do lube mods to get extra oil to the input shaft etc. Seems if you want a strong box for the 450 hp - ft/lbs I'm aiming for I should start with the 4R70W rather than just an AOD (which can be built non electronic).

BUILD LEVELS:

A common question is β€œwhat parts do I need to make it withstand Xhp.”

Here is a recipe guide that showing what the industry thinks is okay in some instances, and what I think. This builds up from each unit. This is a guide to help your build decision, from here you can ask more detailed questions on the forum to get exactly what will work – this will however help you eliminate some things and question others.

AOD:

All build should not have anything less than B servo and shift mods.

325hp – this is the starting point that a stock 1986+ V8 unit should hold with B servo and shift mods. If built, I would not do any less than: 3 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, 6 dir, spiral ring, Tans or better, updated 2-3 accum, 89+ lubed output shaft.

450hp – Most builders will add hard dir input shaft, A+ servo and Kevlar band – often some will install Alto reds clutches in the dir at least. I would not do any less than: 3 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, 6 dir, HE or better, spiral ring, updated 2-3 accum, 89+ lubed output shaft, hard dir shaft, A/A+ servo, stator mods. Possible suggestions would be if doing a lot of heavy footwork Kevlar band and stamped dir drum. Adding a NON LOCK converter to this will bump it to the next level.

500-700hp – you will often find the industry slap a ONE PIECE input shaft in with some Alto packs (maybe a stamped drum or two) and call it BEEFY. I have had too many in my shop that say otherwise cause they are broke! I would not do any less than: 4 int, 4 rev, 5 or 6 fwd, 6/7/8 dir, Reds or better, spiral ring, updated 2-3 accum, 89+ lubed output shaft, hard dir shaft, A/A+ servo, stator mods, 2” band, mech diode, stamped drum upgrades, lube mods. The top end of this hp bracket would want more lube mods, wide ratio planet, and upgraded output shaft.

AODE/4R70W:

All builds should consider swap to 4R70W against budget.

325hp AODE– this is the starting point that a stock 1992+ V8 unit should hold with 2.5” servo and shift mods. If built, I would not do any less than: 3 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, 6 dir, Tans or better, spiral ring, updated accums, 2.7” servo, 98+ input shaft.

450hp 4R70W – this is a good starting point for any stock 98+ 4R70W. If built, I would not do any less than: 4 int, 3 rev, 5 fwd, HE or better, 6 dir, spiral ring, updated accums, 2.7” servo, 98+ input shaft, mech diode, pro series band.

500-700hp - you will often find the industry slap a HARD INPUT shaft in the middle and some performance clutches and call it BEEFY. I would not do any less than: 4 int, 4 rev, 5 or 6 fwd, 6/7/8 dir, Reds or better, spiral ring, updated accums, 2.7” servo, hard input shaft - staked, mech diode, pro series band, lube mods.


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Edz66Vert
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hybrid wrote
A lot of the aftermarket throttle bodies get rid of that though, and some of them use a solenoid to lock out 4th gear as well, so it behaves like a 3 speed. You then use a switch or something to control whether 4th gear is used or not.
I lock 4th gear out on mine unless I hit the motorway, or a long period of 80kph + road.


How do you lock out 4th gear Hybrid, was it you that mentioned moving your gear lever across to stay in 3rd?


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

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Nuts
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If I was now looking for a 4 spd auto, I would go with an AODE.


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Nuts wrote
If I was now looking for a 4 spd auto, I would go with an AODE.

Most performance builders that I came across list AOD's making it hard to find a performance AODE. Supposedly the 4R70W is stronger again (especially the V8 version) so better to build? This is where the mechanical diode was first introduced says Wikepedia?

This from Wikepedia:
4R70W
A revised version of the AODE was released in 1993 with the Lincoln Mark VIII. Compared to the AODE, it has lower 1st and 2nd gear ratios for better take-off acceleration and was designed for better gearset strength. On vehicles powered by a 5.4 L V8, a stronger gearset is used than in normal duty 4R70Ws. In 1998, due to durability concerns, the intermediate one-way roller clutch was replaced with a mechanical diode providing extra holding capacity and longer service.

While there is speculation that the 70 can be multiplied by 10 to indicate the lb-ft of torque this transmission is capable of handling including torque converter multiplication, (i.e. 700 lb-ft of torque), there is no reliable source indicating this. In fact a Ford document stated that the 2003 "Expedition's 4R70W transmission is rated to handle up to 506 pound-feet of torque, which provides a large performance cushion beyond the peak torque rating of Expedition's largest available engine."

This is a good article on the intricacies of building a good AOD (and I assume AODE) AOD Tech Build by Silverfox


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:48 pm; edited 2 times in total

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hybrid
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I have a silverfox valve body in mine, and it's got a lockout solenoid in it. I control it with a push button switch.

By the way, I also wrote some AOD tips in our tech zone that I learned when researching and building mine.


Last edited by hybrid on Mon Feb 27, 2017 9:59 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Nuts
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My 95 mustang I just sold had 325KW at the rears and a basically stock AODE. It never missed a beat and I gave it heaps.


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Edz66Vert
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"Hybrid - I have a silverfox valve body in mine, and it's got a lockout solenoid in it. I control it with a push button switch.

By the way, I also wrote some AOD tips in our tech zone that I learned when researching and building mine."


I read that, good article.

Didn't realise you could do that trick with the solenoid to an AOD, pretty tricky!


66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"

Last edited by Edz66Vert on Mon Feb 27, 2017 11:06 pm; edited 2 times in total

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