This time the steering system. Mine is a 2 fold job:
- Firstly I wanted to restore the OEM system to factory correct, bagging and storing the bits I won't be using on this driver as I go. This is along the lines of the aims I stated at the start, that I want to keep any OEM parts I upgrade, to maintain value and keep the car "together" for any future concourse plans someone may have.
- And secondly I wanted to upgrade the system to help get rid of any slop or leak prone bits if possible.
The second part was made easier by deciding to stay LHD. This allowed me to go with a Borgeson PS box, eliminating the much maligned Bendix control valve and cylinder. So I bought one as part of my bigger US parts buys last year. I removed the Pitman Arm, blasted and VHT chassis "cast iron" painted it, and put that aside with the new Borgeson kit for the happy day when it gets put on the car.
So onto the rest of the OEM system. Firstly checking what I had. Happily most of the bits I had were date correct and several bits still had the tags - nice. Alas the slave cylinder wasn't date correct and was worn beyond economic repair, even though I was happy to cut her open, replace the seal etc and weld it back together. So I'm still searching for one of those. The Bendix CTL valve was also completely shot. Thanks to "Nuts" for supplying a rebuilt correct unit there. Heres a couple of photos of the tagged bits pre-rebuild.
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:12 am; edited 6 times in total
The Column I will detail separately as I am still awaiting a new top bearing & seal to finish off its resto and upgrade.
Anyway below is what the cylinder was like. The hoses were both shot, so first thing was to order a pair of concourse ones from CJ's. The cylinder's chassis bracket was pretty scuzzy, so into the blaster and a coat of the VHT chassis cast iron paint for that too.
So given that I didn't trust the insides of the cylinder and that it wasn't date correct I cut her up!
The unit is simple enough, albeit IMHO a little misunderstood from what I read other folks saying on eBay etc.
The bore honed up nicely and the ball joint was still good, and like anything the issues I found can be fixed, but even doing my own work it would double the price of buying another date correct core and re-kitting it. Basically the piston seal is an odd size (custom made job it seems) and hard chroming the shaft is expensive. So shes into the bin! It was interesting to see inside it though.
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:18 pm; edited 6 times in total
Next onto the P/S pump. First job was ID'ing it (all correct) and disassembly.
There are plenty of websites and YouTube videos on how to rebuild them. Albeit that's only as far as new O rings and seals. Few detail replacing the cam packs or refacing the plates etc. I assume because as at that point most would look for another core or go with a Sagem unit. Anyway I won't bore everyone with a blow by blow how to section.
The next thing was repairing damage to the reservoir, as someone had bent the tube forward about 30 degrees from where it was supposed to be, buckling the casing in the process.
So sensing it would be easier to play with that whilst assembled and in a padded vice, I inserted some appropriately sized round bar down the tube, and warmed up the damaged parts. A bit of heat, dollying and patience did the trick, plus a touch of solder to be sure, and bingo! Then onto the insides. Took a fair bit of persuading to get the can off, but then it went OK. Inspection looked good enough, no corrosion, deep scoring or pits, so just new O rings and seals etc and back together. I avoided the temptation to resurface the plates, as without a new cam pack I'm told they can scream like a stuck pig (makes sense). My kit was OEM Ford from Mansfield's (any better than the eBay variety?) and it came with 2 options for the large O ring, and a small copper washer which didn't seem to be required for my purposes. Also my pump came sans hardware and no brackets, so some eBaying and a new AMK kit did the trick there.
What struck me was how much the OEM colour had faded and changed from blue to blue/green, when you uncovered the original paint hidden under the tag and front (behind the pulley). The photo colour exaggerates it for some reason here, but a bit of cutter on the "green"paint showed the same blue underneath. Not as a layer (like a respray) but as a gradual change with depth. I guess heat and fumes take their toll and may explain why so many "experts" have differing views on whats right. However there is a PPG colour thats supposed to be factory OEM, and thats like the hidden "blue" I found.
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:21 am; edited 10 times in total
Luckily mine had plenty of its OEM paint, and as I'd read a few energetic web views on what shade is right, that was nice to have. The tag confirmed it as the correct pump for the car, the paint appeared to be it's first coat, and was very similar to some I've seen on 68' concourse resto's, so I thought I'd try for a visual match. I spent far too much time at Autobarn's paint counter trying to get a useable formula using the correct PPG (12366) and FORD Chesapeake / Empress Blue (M1367) codes etc but to no avail. Waiting ages for a US sourced rattle can was likewise not very appealing. However in the end I got lucky when at another car parts store I spied a dusty Dupli-Color Hyundai rattle can that was a dead ringer. (I think it was "Cape Blue" from memory). It was even on special for $10! Whoo hoo! The shop's owner and I checked them side by side in the sun and couldn't see any appreciable difference so that's what I used. 1 can was more than enough for 2 solid coats. Added a new SD chromed cap, a quick bolt together with some blue Loctite - and voila! We had the finished job, albeit the web and my iphone seem to do weird things to the colours...
All ready to go back on...
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:18 pm; edited 9 times in total
Yes I've heard they can make things a bit tighter.
However I have some faith in Stan at FPA in the US, who made my headers and who says they clear without issue. I asked him about that before I hit buy. I also asked Bruce at MDL about this issue when I was tossing up buying the Tremec TKO600 kit. He recommended their internal hydraulic clutch option, (which I bought) and upon inspection it takes up far less space than the factory Z bar. So I'm thinking I should be OK, but I guess time will tell...
I will probably trial fit my motor in there before I pull it all apart for painting anyway, and that will show up any issues.
Good point though.
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Tue Mar 28, 2017 7:45 am; edited 2 times in total
Oh well, one more thing to play with I guess. Given that most of the web forum stories regarding the fitting of FPA's to FE Mustangs seem to have a happy ending, I'm hopeful that eventually I'll find a way. I gather some swear by fitting the headers first, others do it after dropping the motor in. All this has made me a bit curious so I'm thinking I'll trial fit the motor & TKO soon after I've completed the first body assembly.
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Wed Mar 29, 2017 9:43 pm; edited 1 time in total
Anyway back into it. Time to sort out the steering linkages. The car came with 2 sets, one of which looked to have been recently worked on, albeit covered in brushed on black paint and with a little rust on the hardware. So they were all stripped down, blasted, checked over (threads cleaned etc) then painted VHT chassis iron and rebuilt with new AMK hardware. Have ordered some OEM type rubber covers with the steel rings to make it all correct, although I'm thinking I'll keep the zerk fittings on the pair I use on the car. The other set doesn't have them, so they can be the "posterity" set.
Before and after below. I'll finish the other set as ready spares one day soon...
Likewise the cross member was painted the same awful way, so that too was cleaned off and repainted and AMK'd...
Lastly on this day I had a go at the strut rods. Same paint woes plus some surface rust on the hardware, so again, cleaned / blasted. Hardware pressed out, blasted re-blacked n oiled and the AMK kit put aside with it for final assembly. The threads, as most will no doubt know, are uncommon. So I've ordered some dies in 11/16 x 18 and 3/4 x 20 (cross member). I'll chase the threads down a smidge as there are a couple less than perfect on the drivers strut rod. Not worth replacing it for the small amount of work required. So there we are, the steering system is mostly ready! (still trying to track down a correct cylinder, although I have a lead or 2 now).
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sat Mar 17, 2018 9:21 pm; edited 7 times in total
The logos and trademarks used on this site are the property of their respective owners.
We are not responsible for comments, advice, opinions, products or services posted by our members, as they are the property of the poster.