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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Husky's 65 Restomod > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Husky65
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If any motor needs individual coil packs it will be you're new one


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hybrid
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It's more the crank trigger that's important for timing accuracy, but getting rid of the distributor does make things neat as well.
Husky that engine bay looks great mate.


Last edited by hybrid on Mon Jan 08, 2018 9:42 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Husky65
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Thanks mate.
Now onto my next problems. Accessory belt is now too long, and lower radiator hose doesn't fit now due to the supercharger pulley.....I swear this shit never stops. Pretty sure I've spent more in accessories than I have on my supercharger kit. Argh

Also, I bought a 4" to 3" 90dg silicone reducer for the discharge tube to throttle body. Had to trim the ends to make it all fit nice....well, what do you know. The only part that was 3" was right at the end. It starts tapering up(albeit only slightly) right from the get go.....who the f makes a hose like that, now it's too loose for my liking....anyway, bed time
👼


Last edited by Husky65 on Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:25 pm; edited 2 times in total

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hybrid
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I made a custom bottom pipe from stainless Mandrel and just used silicone joiners.


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Husky65
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I can't make that ha ha. I have a flexible stainless steel one that I have coming off a mate. It will do for now. I will get a pipe made up later on.


Last edited by Husky65 on Mon Jan 08, 2018 10:26 pm; edited 1 time in total

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gbx78
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Husky65 wrote
Thanks mate.
Now onto my next problems. Accessory belt is now too long, and lower radiator hose doesn't fit now due to the supercharger pulley.....I swear this shit never stops. Pretty sure I've spent more in accessories than I have on my supercharger kit. Argh

Also, I bought a 4" to 3" 90dg silicone reducer for the discharge tube to throttle body. Had to trim the ends to make it all fit nice....well, what do you know. The only part that was 3" was right at the end. It starts tapering up(albeit only slightly) right from the get go.....who the f makes a hose like that, now it's too loose for my liking....anyway, bed time
👼


I had a similar problem back in the day.. also finding a hose that kicks in the right direction on the water pump side. i found one that worked and had a long neck on it and cleared the belt.. i cant remember but i THINK it was from a late 60's or early 70s..XW or LTD or something. lol helpful i know.. ill have to look at my hoses box as im sure i kept the details. Alternately as Hybrid did just make one up that suits.. youll never have to replace that bottom hose again due to age/wear.


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
Boofhead

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hybrid
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Husky65 wrote
I can't make that ha ha. I have a flexible stainless steel one that I have coming off a mate. It will do for now. I will get a pipe made up later on.


Yeah bring it over to mine one day after it's running and we can make up a pipe. Won't take long at all. I'll make sure I have gas by then Mr. Green


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Husky65
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hybrid wrote
Husky65 wrote
I can't make that ha ha. I have a flexible stainless steel one that I have coming off a mate. It will do for now. I will get a pipe made up later on.


Yeah bring it over to mine one day after it's running and we can make up a pipe. Won't take long at all. I'll make sure I have gas by then Mr. Green
Will do. Maybe when I need a coolant change. Finished mounting the radiator. The mounting studs at the top were too high, so I cut them off and made some small alloy brackets that screw to the front of the radiator. They are isolated with rubber bushings and the bolts aren't tight so there is some movement. Trimmed the fans. You can see where I mounted the fan relays. I decided against running then through the ecu fusebox, so now they have their own direct power supply. Not much clearance with the pulleys but should be fine.






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hybrid
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Phew.. yeah shes tight, but should be fine.
I made my radiator very easy to remove because it's necessary to do any work on the front of the engine.
My radiator also sits inside the radiator support. I modified it when I built the car so it was slightly higher.
That gives me an extra inch or so, which we all know is a good thing.


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ozbilt
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hybrid wrote

That gives me an extra inch or so, which we all know is a good thing.


Actually I don't know ....... Crying or Very sad


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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gbx78
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Bahh mines closer.. and my engine is pushed back too Very Happy


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
Boofhead

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Husky65
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Can you guys look at the base afr and ignition maps I made. They are conservative I think. The gt40p heads hate timing, so I need to be careful there. Under boost with over 20 timing and they seem to like to detonate. These maps are to start the car and drive around a bit. Dyno tune will follow to sort the maps properly. Apology for the photos, it's off my tuning laptop which I don't use the net on.




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hybrid
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Your meth will stop the detonation, so you should be OK.
I'd say those tables are definitely conservative... should be a safe start.

For reference here's mine.
AFR (Note, I don't use this extensively):


I've included both sets of tables to show what difference meth makes. It's not 100% tuned yet as we could only rev it to 5500 before the gearbox slipped. So there's still more in it.

Fuel no Meth:


Fuel Meth:


Timing no Meth:


Timing Meth:


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boofhead
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i would not target less than 12.0 afr

Hybrids maps are interesting - timing is the key and that shows up well in his examples
Like


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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hybrid
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Yeah we were able to add 5 degrees of timing with the meth and no sign of detonation.
Not game to actually work out how far we could go Mr. Green

But with 30 degree air temps and water for quenching, there's a lot of scope.


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