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Q&A > General Tech Advice > Paint process- bare metal then???? > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Paint process- bare metal then???? Reply to topic

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shaun071
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Hi All,
I've nearly finished the underside of my coupe and am at the planning stage for paint and bodywork. Is Intergard the best primer to apply over bare metal and can it be used under acrylic or only 2pak? I'm not sure whether to go with 2 pak or use acrylic. What are the pros/cons of both systems for someone spraying at home? I've sprayed a few cars in the past, mostly with acrylic so I'm new to 2pak paint systems. A local paint supplier told me not to bother with acrylic
and just use a 2pak system as follows

1, 2k wash primer (needs overcoat of primer within an hour or 2)
2, 2k primer filler
3, top coat

Any advice?

Thanks Shaun


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boofhead
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I am not an expert on this topic so this is a simple mans opinion.

I would do it using 2Pak absolutely. If you are going to go to the trouble use the superior paint finish. You will need an appropriate mask to protect yourself. An option that I used for one of my cars was to rent a paint booth when doing the final colour/clear coats. In the big picture it is not an expensive option.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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shaun071
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I've got a good quality full face mask and can get disposable overalls etc from work. I was leaning toward using 2pak but I'm not sure on what products etc work together


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boofhead
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Stick with the same brand for the various layers and you should be sweet.

I have used De Beer (note: choice was influence by others that know far more than me) - not expensive and has worked out well.

www.debeer.com.au/


I will someday think of something clever to say.

Last edited by boofhead on Thu Jan 07, 2016 1:16 am; edited 2 times in total

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shaun071
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De Beers was the brand the paint shop suggested too. Thanks Boof!


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hybrid
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I've painted with both, and 2pak is so much nicer to use.

It's nasty though, so yeah make sure you are properly protected.


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ozbilt
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Intergard is an Asko-Nobel product.

It is a brilliant primer over a blasted bare metal surface & is part of their marine range. I use it on every car I do. It always remains the finish coat under the car as well as any inside area that is not seen after assembly.

With any painting, use the same brand from the first prime to finish clear.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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shaun071
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Thanks for the advice, guys.
Ozbilt- if I use intergard should I stay with Asko-Nobel products for the primer/filler and topcoats? I found on the web Sikkens and Dulux are part of the Asko-Nobel group. Or can I use intergard then use debeer etc for the rest?


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ozbilt
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shaun071 wrote
Thanks for the advice, guys.
Ozbilt- if I use intergard should I stay with Asko-Nobel products for the primer/filler and topcoats? I found on the web Sikkens and Dulux are part of the Asko-Nobel group. Or can I use intergard then use debeer etc for the rest?


Same brand all the way. I would use Sikkens (as I do already)


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Pinto-Pete
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Never used it dulux, glassuit and us paints (fuckin hard to use) the only stuff I've ever played with. Is sikkens easy to use... ?


I'm Batman...

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Shaunp
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Debeers metallics don't lay and flop correctly they are hard work and you often end up with 5 coats of base rather then 3 in the end, sometime you still cant get it even, Clear is soft, stick with quality stuff , Sikkens, Dupont ( now called Cromax) etc cost more, but so much better. I can get Debeers real cheap one of my best mates is a national manager with Valspar, still wont use it. There is a step below Sikkens from Akzo called Lesanol its good stuff. The Akzo dealer in Brisbane also sells a paint called General ROC this is very cost effective and also excellent for the money, painted a HSV ute in a purple/black pearl colour and the stuff layed out perfect

Here is a Tran-am we did in Lesanol clear over base, base was just midnight black tinter. Cut it Scholl concepts, best compound I've seen, with lake country pads , the S3 will take 1500 scratches straight out of black in no time, with no need for finer cut though I did cut this car with 15 and 30 Scholl as well. Car was primed with Sikkens auto body classic







Last edited by Shaunp on Fri Jan 08, 2016 9:13 pm; edited 5 times in total

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boofhead
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Well there you go. I change from Sikkens because of the cost (and recommendation). As often is the case, more expensive can really be better.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Shaunp
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boofhead wrote
Well there you go. I change from Sikkens because of the cost (and recommendation). As often is the case, more expensive can really be better.


Yep but for economy you cant go past the General ROC from Colour Fast is so much better Boof and about the same price if not cheaper.



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shaun071
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I'll look into those brands mentioned and see if I can get any of them locally. Colourfast at Hillcrest is just up from the road from my sister. I've been to 2 paint shops up here and both mixed brands between paint layers. They seem to want to sell you what they have on the shelf. I got a blank look when I asked if the brands were compatible. I've got a month or so before I have to get serious about paint.

Shaunp- both cars look fantastic!


Last edited by shaun071 on Sun Jan 10, 2016 10:29 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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There is a color fast on the northside now as well. ROC is what they call their "value line" works fine, no comparison to Debeers at all, way better.


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