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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Dems the brakes > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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nassi
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So there. Finger


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smh00n
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I have a feeling that the shoes are all arse about and this is my issue.

Might even brave the winter and pull them down tonight.


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smh00n
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Well the only thing I can see wrong is the front shoe on both sides is slightly longer than the one unilec put up. The rear shoe at the very bottom end also has a roughness not consistent with the rest of the shoes.

I shall go to the brake shop on the weekend and see what they have for me.

Question - for those that have installed the Falcon rear discs and are driving the car regularly, have they been worth the effort to install? And did they still require a proportioning valve?
I'd be happy to go to discs but of there is no tangible improvement then I will just stick with drums.
The SSBC/Summit kit is going to be around $750 delivered but I'd prefer to have local parts for ease of replacement


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ozbilt
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smh00n wrote
Well the only thing I can see wrong is the front shoe on both sides is slightly longer than the one unilec put up. The rear shoe at the very bottom end also has a roughness not consistent with the rest of the shoes.

I shall go to the brake shop on the weekend and see what they have for me.

Question - for those that have installed the Falcon rear discs and are driving the car regularly, have they been worth the effort to install? And did they still require a proportioning valve?
I'd be happy to go to discs but of there is no tangible improvement then I will just stick with drums.
The SSBC/Summit kit is going to be around $750 delivered but I'd prefer to have local parts for ease of replacement


Stick with the drums. Your car is too light for discs on a road car. You would also need engineering cert for the discs, so a big chunk of money going in that direction.

I could take you for a ride in Mrsozbilt's 69 Mach & you would be amazed how quick it stops without lockup. Really your brakes just need sorting out. If you want someone good fixing them, come out my way & I will introduce you to him. He has been sorting my brake issues for over 30 years, including phone advice when I had the shop in California.


Kerry

Not all heroes wear capes, some wear scuba tanks and swim by feel ........

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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boofhead
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I am with Kerry on this - do keep the drums. I went rear disks on my Mustang for no other reason that I wanted to - there was no tangible benefit other than a personal perceived cool look factor. I am running the rear drums in my Cougar and very happy with them.

If you want a set of rears already together with the 5/8 slaves I am happy to sell you a set that came off my Mustang before I installed the rear disks. All you need to do is bolt them to the diff put the axles in bolt it in. put the drum on and hock up the hydraulic lines and hand brake cables. Last step is to bleed it.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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smh00n
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Thanks Boof. I am advised I should go to 2" wide drums, so are yours 2"?

If you want to whack me a price please do so; I have organised a proportioning valve so the drums/cyls are the next step.


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xpconnor
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smh00n wrote
but I'd prefer to have local parts for ease of replacement

I don't think you will ever find anything easier to replace than mustang parts, even in OZ, so don't let that put you off going to mustang rear drums. I just rang a local brake place said I want some new rear drums for a 65 mustang, he looked up the part numbers ordered them in and I had the new drum and shoes within the week.


"The Mustang is full of Awesome"

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123abc
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a ants posted have you checked to see if the little rubber disc between the booster and master cylinder is still there or not gone hard. mine went hard took it to a brake place and they matched it up coz when they perish as mine did it used to nearly throw you through the ,windscreen at low speed even rolling was harsh.
its just a little black rubber disc about 35mm x 10 mm that provides some cushion when brakes are applied it usually falls into the booster and people don't realize it, it worked on my 70


Last edited by 123abc on Fri Aug 12, 2016 8:27 pm; edited 1 time in total

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smh00n
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So I am still having issues with brakes.
What has been done over the past year; new booster and XB Falcon master cylinder, put together correctly by a brake shop.
New adjustable proportioning valve.
All new wheel cyls, fitting kit, etc.
I am having one rear wheel (RHR) lock regardless of what I do. Today is wet so traction is poor and it also have shiitehouse crap tyres on it but that's kind of good.
I have adjusted the drum so the shoes are just touching backed off.

The only thing I can see is the drum and shoes are not plumb; there is wear on it so they could be replaced (or have the drum machined with new shoes).

Last time I did work to the car was easily 6-8 months ago and I am sure I had the adjustment right in the dry and it took a hefty shove to lock the rears and I had a good pedal.
Only way to stop locking is to wind the adjustment up to block off the rears.

I'm lost for thoughts.


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ants
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Have you machined the drums?? Sounds like the drum may be out of round causing it to keep locking in the the same spot on the drum. If it was a pressure related problem you would expect both rears would lockup together.


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Shaunp
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New shoes and drums are pretty cheap I put all new stuff on mine.


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smh00n
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Ants I tend to agree. Even with light pressure the SOB is locking the one wheel and it doesn't make sense.
I am thinking new drums and shoes are needed. They'll be the last thing that isn't new.


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ants
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Swap the drums left to right and see if the problem follows the drum. If it does, at least you can be confident that money spent on new shoes and drums will fix the fault.


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smh00n
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You are a thinking man. I will give that a go.


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