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Other > Other Projects > Jacko's Project > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Ausjacko
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I think I used that method on the mustang or something else a while back.
So no comment on the upholstery hey. I thought I photographed the bits well.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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boofhead
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Your skills range is impressive. Thumps up.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Pinto-Pete
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Ausjacko wrote
22 January 2017

Painted the sway bars and they turned out pretty well.






.


Sooo did you run out of orange or yellow paint..?


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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LEEH69
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That youngster in the trunk, hope he's not looking for somewhere to stash that "Trophy"...lol.
coming together well Jacko, looking good


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hybrid
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Sorry, as it's a h*lden thread, I just skip through it to make sure nobody has mentioned the other forum in case I have to ban them Poke


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Shaunp
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LEEH69 wrote
That youngster in the trunk, hope he's not looking for somewhere to stash that "Trophy"...lol.
coming together well Jacko, looking good


The front bar is actually a 308 bar the kink is to clear the rad hose.


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Ausjacko
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Hi Shan
the chev is the same



'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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xpconnor
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Ausjacko wrote
Hi Shan
the chev is the same



Is that the cheap GM/Chinese knock off of a shelby bar. Snigger


"The Mustang is full of Awesome"

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Ausjacko
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12 February 2017

Good find at the cars and coffee Friday night with a 1970 HG 350 attending. One owner car purchased in Nowra and driven to Canberra where it has stayed. Owner and his wife are nice people who look after their car. I grabbed a photo of the passenger foot-well light bracket. This has confirmed it is screwed to the lower lip of the dash and not mounted into the two holes that form part of the frame up and above this lip.

This was a rather frustrating week really. I tried the drivers side window again and was not happy with the notchiness of it. It wound OK but was not smooth. As I had the door apart, I thought I would fix it properly for fear of it bugging the hell out of me forevermore. So I removed the not quite right regulator.

Here you can see it:




So I did a bit of research and found rare spares do a regulator rebuild kit. Order the kit along with the fender bolt kit and picked it up early in the week. The regulator kit requires the old winder mech to be drilled out to remove it and the new mech welded in place; why you would not make one that rivets back in I will never know. So that is what I did.

In the shot above the quadrant, the quarter gear thing, and the mech it engages to.

Here is the mech that needed to be removed



And here is what I suspect was the cause of the notchy feel- worn gears.



With the mech thing out, I could grind the main and arm pins down and punch them out pretty easy.

Then came new mech unit fitting time. Easier to do this part in a series of negatives:
No, the holes did not line up
No, even with two holes aligned it was not centred
No, the rivets did not work. Why, because the β€˜tube’ they fit in through are too long and so the rivet basically grabs itself and does not squeeze the mech unit to the regulator frame.
No, it was not an impressive piece of kit.

But on the bright side, I got to use the welder and tacked it in place. Tested it with the winder handle and it worked and then would grab in one direction. Could not figure out what had happened, thinking I had welded it somehow. Retrieved a small shaving from the unit and it freed up. Buoyed by this success, I fitted the quadrant and two pivot pins, cycled it a few times and thought I had it- WRONG!

Made my way to the car- no I had not reached there just yet- and wound the unit in order to fit it. The unit became well and truly stuck. Try as I might I could not get the bloody thing to move either way. It was stuck solid! I could not see what the issue was as the quadrant was blocking the view. About face to the shed I go.

I tried to free the mech but it was stuffed. I had to punch out the quadrant pin to get a look into the mech unit. This is what I saw:



The spring in the mech unit had come out from between the internal cover and outter shell, jamming the thing tight as. The whole thing was stuffed!

Fortunately, in my interwebbing I had found a guy who offers a regulator refurb service. Rang him the next day and explained what I had done. He then asks β€œOh, the spring has come out?”
β€œYes” I say, β€œ How did you know that?”

β€œHave seen heaps of them through here to get fixed” he replies, continuing to offer his view on the quality aspects of that piece which I could not disagree with. In summary, $90 down the crapper and the regulator is now off getting another mech installed for $225! Have written to rare spares seeking a refund based on the experience that the product was not β€˜fit for purpose’ as it should be under consumer law in Oz. Let’s see how that goes.

New door locks arrived and I fitted them. In the interim I found a box containing a door lock that the PO had purchased and I forgot about. Not to worry as no keys I have fit it!

Installed the guard bolts, including the rubber cup washer ones that go inside the cabin, in the footwell area, and the ones in and around the engine bay.

As I was at that end of the car, I fitted the front lower valance and head lights. Given shed temp was pushing 41deg C, I decided to call it quits and avoid melting under the aircon.

Sunday was raining and low 20degC; get that for a cool change. I was going to soften the door rubbers in the sun but without it, I did not bother, preferring to help JBB on his first drive!


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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Anyone notice this article on auction sale prices:

www.tradeuniquecars.co...t-shannons

I now know why they are so bloody expensive to restore.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Pinto-Pete
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hybrid wrote
Sorry, as it's a h*lden thread, I just skip through it to make sure nobody has mentioned the other forum in case I have to ban them Poke


Just keep moving along there skippy...... Drink


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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Ausjacko
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19 February 2017

Fitted the door rubbers. Was a bit worried about the Rare Spares plastic clips but they worked fine and the rubbers seem to fit well. Packaged up the old rubbers and labelled them for posterity.

Excitement of the diff plates arriving was soon dashed as they are not correct. Please make no mistake when they say the β€˜illustration is indicative only and actual parts may be different from this image’.

Went back to the shed and confirmed it is a later type diff with a split centre and conical gears- no clutch plates. Back to the interweb and searching. I will take the busted plate to Farrer Diffs to see if he found one (Oh please God let him have found it!).

Right, God was not on my side as Farrer Diffs did not have a retainer plate. He had a four springer but not the five. Went and did a bit of interwebbing and emailing to the US. Auburn were really helpful in confirming it is an old style split case Auburn. Unfortunately, these items are obsolete and they have no spares for them whatsoever. Plan D- try welding.

I have returned the Auburn spring kit to Summit for a refund. Taking out postage, I think I will receive $1.50. Talking about owing, Rare Spares has asked for the photo and return of the busted winder regulator parts. Doug has undertaken to send them back with the refurbed reg which will cost $315! No, that is just for the regulator, no glass, offer of installation or fanfare. I had little choice given you can’t buy a rerpo item and rebuild kits are not up to scratch.

As I had been playing out front fitting the battery tray through the week, I fitted the front lower valance and headlights. Starting to come alive now.

On Thursday evening, Drew, Leather FX, dropped the seat parts back. The seats look fantastic in leather, with double orange stitching and other customisations. He needs to come back to cut the slots for the folding mechanism and I need to make a spacer for the side bracket which I have clearly lost; have three but should be four. The seats are up to his usual incredible standard and will match the sandalwood perfectly. I will assemble these through next week. Thanks H for colour advice/direction.

Fitted the flexible brake hoses and thought I would test them with compressed air prior to connecting them fully. Bummer, no flow to the rear. Checked the rear flexible line and it was blocked. Off she came and I could see a bit of muck in it. Carefully used a thin piece of wire to clear the way which turned out to be a pile of rusty dust. With this cleared and checked with compressed air, back it went on the car. The correct order for this is to attached the brass distribution block to the hard lines on the diff, thread it through the plate that mounts it to the top of the diff and allow it to twist up tight and slide on the retainer clip. THEN you fit it to the body bracket and attach the hard line from the front.

On the front, I fitted the odd springs and brackets to the front flexible lines. These springs keep the lines up high and toward the guard, away from the rotating wheels and discs.

To round out the week, I went over to Andrew’s and we initially tried tig welding the spring retainer plate but it was behaving weirdly. The plate is bloody hard steel (it is magnetic) and should have tig’ed but for some reason it would not. Ended up using the MIG to run a few beads on the inside, reattached the tang on the end and stitched the crack toward the back.

Back home, I cleaned up the plate with a die-grinder and file. Remember the seat spacer I needed, well made that while I was grinding and filing.

Grabbed the retainer plates and returned them to their home between the gears. Here you can see the welds. Pretty beefy and should lend the needed support and strength:






And here is what the plates do; locate the springs so they pre-load the conical gears to provide limited slipiness:






I used one axle to make sure the internal splines were aligned correctly while bolting to the two halves tougher.

With the centre back together, I could return it to the car. Pretty straightforward to sit it in, loosely fit the end bearing caps, slide/tap the spacers in (remember I had labelled them per side) and torque them in. Spins freely enough which is good.

Grabbed the axle shafts, lubed them up with stinky diff oil, and slide them into place. It took bit of jiggling and a few gentle taps to get them seated correctly but nothing like what it took to get the suckers out. Used my new axle housing bolts (well two of them) to bolt and torque the axles in place.

Here you can see how the axles protrude into the centre. Note, this diff does not use C-clips to stop the axles sliding out. The bolts and end plates at the bearing ends do this.




Fitted the back plate using black gasket goo. Fitted the spaces in between the bracket and the housing plate. With this on, I filled the diff with oil. This tiresome task was made a lot easier with the petrol tank out. I could use a funnel and tube to gravity feed the oil in as opposed to the β€˜suck and squirt’ method usually required.

And here is the finished diff:




Next week the brakes.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Nuts
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Jacko, three things about this build confuse me.....

1. This is a Mustang Site where we discuss the technical side of al things mustang and other shit. I don't know whether your Holdon build fits in with the other shit.
2. We have managed to recently convince a Holdon owner to sell his two cars and buy a mustang. He comes to this site and sees a holdon rebirth and is probably very confused right now.
3. You have been going to great lengths to make sure all the hidden bits on your holdon are correct as it left the factory but you put custom leather upholstery in the bloody thing. WTF????

Wall Bash


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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ants
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Nuts wrote
Jacko, three things about this build confuse me.....

1. This is a Mustang Site where we discuss the technical side of al things mustang and other shit. I don't know whether your Holdon build fits in with the other shit.
Wall Bash


So...Who was it that started this thread ?? Poke


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ozbilt
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ants wrote
Nuts wrote
Jacko, three things about this build confuse me.....

1. This is a Mustang Site where we discuss the technical side of al things mustang and other shit. I don't know whether your Holdon build fits in with the other shit.
Wall Bash


So...Who was it that started this thread ?? Poke


Snap ..... outch ....... BadaBing


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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