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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Clutch fork problem > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Napes
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Had a fairly successful weekend replacing pedal box and rag joint.
But having issue with the clutch & fork.

Car is a 68 Mustang with 3spd toploader and 302.

After everything was re-installed, I put my foot on the clutch and it went to the floor with little resistance and stayed there - was a bit of a clank. Once under the car, the clutch fork looked like it was fouling on the exhaust, then I noticed that the clutch fork seemed pretty loose.

Took the dust cover off. I can literally pull the clutch fork out - assume that isn't right!

How do I repair - I've also misplaced my shop manual, so flying extra blind...!


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boofhead
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It sounds like the interference has cause the fork to come off its pivot point. If you can pull you cover plate off you might be able to see it and wangle it back on otherwise worst case is you just might have to pull the engine.


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ozbilt
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Agree to try to get the folk back on the pivot. Worst case, to pull the box would be easier with a 3 speed.

Do you have the spring from the firewall to the Z bar?


Kerry

Not all heroes wear capes, some wear scuba tanks and swim by feel ........

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Napes
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Thanks guys.
Will try to wrangle it back on.
Hope I don't have to drop the transmission.
This was supposed to be a weekend job - ah well Wink2


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Napes
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Kerry - there is only a spring that runs from the zbar to the support for the lower suspension arm - see pic below (looking toward front of car from under the left wheel). Is this wrong or am I missing a spring? I've not moved this at all, though possible it was messed with when exhaust was done.



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ozbilt
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There is a spring that runs from the firewall (just above where the column comes through) & attaches to the Z bar about an inch from where the rod from the clutch pedal joins the Z bar. You will see a small hole in it.





I have these here at Duggo if you need one ......



Should have this one as well ......



Kerry

Not all heroes wear capes, some wear scuba tanks and swim by feel ........

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Napes
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Thanks Kerry - appreciate your help mate!

I definitely don't have a hole in the z-bar or an upper spring like yours in the pic - below is a shot of the same area on mine.



And the big spring on the pedal box - definitely have that fella! They're fun to get on even with the pedal box out of the car.

My car is a 68 (built late 67), but also has a bunch of other year parts going on, so always an adventure!

What do you think? Obviously getting the clutch for back in is an issue I need to sort, though it has been shifting OK, even with the damaged pedal box.


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ozbilt
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I am doing one at the moment (a 68). However it is a 390, so a different setup to yours.

For some reason I had it in my head yours was a 66. 68 has no hole, just a v shaped notch in the front of the bar. Same spring.

IMO, you should be able to get the fork back in, however you need the car so it has some space under it. Easy for me as I have a lift, but up on stands would help you.


Kerry

Not all heroes wear capes, some wear scuba tanks and swim by feel ........

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Napes
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Cheers Kerry

Going to have another look now at getting the fork back in. And I have 4x stands, though it'l be tricky getting up in there still I reckon. Will feedback how I get on...

Thanks again Smile


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Napes
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Found my shop manual Thumbs Up and working back from there... seems some inventive mods have been made in the past...

What I've found...

I'm missing the return spring at the top of the equaliser bar - the hole is there on the z bar, but I'm guessing spring was removed when the later model master cylinder was added during disk brake conversion?

The light 3 1/8" spring normally used between the release rod assembly and clutch fork was re-purposed as a return spring between the release rod assembly and was attached to the lower suspension arm bracket. It is light spring, so amazed that it worked!

Pulled the clutch fork - the indent/cup that the release rod sits in has pushed through to become a hole (with the tapered end pushing through by about 1/2 an inch). Clutch fork is missing the retaining spring. Missing the spring between Z Bar and clutch fork too.

Have ordered another clutch fork with the riveted in spring. I've been able to get the fork back in to correctly engage the thrust bearing (I think) via the bell housing hole - so hopefully the same with the new one.

The clutch pedal sticks to the floor when depressed. I'm guessing that the re-purposed return spring isn't strong enough to push the pedal back up? Has rebuilding the pedal box (no more looseness) made the previous mods fail?

Questions and next steps...

Should I add the correct return spring to the top of Z bar and make a new mounting on the firewall (below the master cylinder?) Or should I add a heavier spring between the hole just above the release rod assembly pivot and the bracket that supports the lower suspension arm (which has been working OK until now?).

Really appreciate any advice with the above. I use my car almost daily, and it's been pretty reliable, but earlier (often dodgy) mods I've reverted back to original. This one stumps me a bit though.

Thanks in advance...


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Jiffy
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The springs you mention do not return the pedal to the top - the clutch pressure plate does that. The spring in the pedal box is to reduce the leg pressure required to operate the pedal. The other springs are to hold the components together in the case of play building up as the friction plate wears.


2002 SVT Cobra, 2003 Drive train, hood, bumpers, boot & spoiler, side scoops and soon - interior!!
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Napes
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Thanks Jiffy.

Hopefully once I've installed the new clutch fork things will be a bit clearer.

Can you think of anything else that would cause the pedal to stick to the floor? There didn't appear to be any issues with the clutch before I pulled and rebuilt the pedal box... so seems strange. There appears to be plenty of resistance (but still movement) when got the clutch fork back in there and pushed on it.


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Napes
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Thanks for the advice so far - have made progress, but stumped again.

The new clutch fork is in. The old one didn't have a retaining spring - this one seats properly, fork is neatly up against the front of the bellhousing hole and it takes plenty of force to push it back - that sound about right?

I set the adjustment rod as it describes in the shop manual - but the clutch pedal doesn't return to the up position. I can't feel when the clutch engages.

If I set the adjustment rod so the clutch fork sits about 1/2 way along bell housing hole, the pedal returns... unless I push it beyond 2/3rds down, then it still stays down.

I imagine that if I set it further back still it'll return, but this doesn't seem right?

If there isn't enough return pressure, does this simply mean a worn/busted clutch?

Would appreciate ideas or next steps or ways I can test.

cheers!


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