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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Projext X 1967 Fastback > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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nassi
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scott66stang wrote
ozbilt wrote
Impressive work Ryan ..... Like
Very much Agree, nice to see what the bumper bracket looks like too. Thumbs Up


I had never seen one until yesterday (we are doing a 67 fastback), and now another the following day. It is strange how things sometimes happen......


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rkmiller73
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Thanks Guys for the compliments!


Nassi,

Are you going to replace part or all of your frame rail?

I see CJ pony parts sells the front half as an inner/outer pieces separated.


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nassi
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No mate the frame rail is ok. Just needed to replace the captive nuts.


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Nuts
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Ryan, sorry if this is a dumb question but is the passenger torque box in the correct position or does it have to go up to fill the gap or are you going to fill the gap?


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MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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ozbilt
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Nuts wrote
Ryan, sorry if this is a dumb question but is the passenger torque box in the correct position or does it have to go up to fill the gap or are you going to fill the gap?


Torque box is in the correct position. The gap you speak of is the firewall toe board missing (it has been cut out) & will go in after the box is installed.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Nuts
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There ya go another dumb question answered, thanks Oz.


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rkmiller73
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There are no dumb questions.

Yes, I took the firewall toeboard out - what was left from rust.

I have not welded it into place yet - I want to make sure the new firewall meets up to the torque box so there is not a gap. Also I need to get an interior kick panel to test fit to make sure that I don't have it too far back and cause later fitting issues with the interior.

My firewall has a lot of rot and pitting on the inside where the firewall pad soaked up water and caused rust issues. From the engine compartment view is looks great, but on the inside - not so great.

Yesterday I took a section of the outer passenger frame rail off and the pitting was mostly in a couple of small spots so I welded in a small patch panel (1 inch square). I am going to weld the bracket back in and the outer frame piece I took off back on after cleaning up some more inside and painting. Should have photos in a couple of days.


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rkmiller73
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OK,

So to update, I took off a section of the front frame rail, repaired the area and then after cleaning, primer, painting the inside of the frame rail I welded back in the bumper extension bracket and the frame piece I took off.

I fit the new radiator support and it fit fairly well, but the hood bumper brackets on it are crooked (thanks Dynacorn) so I will adjust those later.

Next I took off the passenger rear bumper bracket and adjusted it to fit the tail light panel (then tacked it into place for now), the driver side bracket was good.

This last weekend I took off the upper/lower cowl and after the July 4th holiday I am going to take out what is left of the firewall. The new Dynacorn firewall and lower cowl panel (in grey weld through primer) came in the mail yesterday.

Cowls have the usual rust around the hat channels, not as bad as some I have seen. I am going to try and reuse the upper cowl panel.

Before the cowl goes back in I am going to work on the dash panel rust.

First photo is the passenger torque box I split, painted and then welded, clamped into place.

NOTE: when I took the export brace off, the brace without bolts in it at the firewall is more toward the rear of the car and the holes are off about 1/4 or so of an inch - 0.4 - 0.7cm for you guys. I lowered the front of the frame jig and stood on it and it improved a little, but not perfect. I probably should have waited to weld the driver torque box in. I am thinking that with a 390 engine up front, if I get it up on a lift it will go on without trouble. I was still able to use a screw driver to apply leverage in one of the holes to move it into place, which is what I had to do before.













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rkmiller73
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Firewall is out and I have the new firewall and lower cowl panel.

I am going to fit the cowl panels back to the cut spot welds using the holes on the cowl top panel to line up with the drilled spot weld marks.

I test fitted the new firewall, and drilled 1/4 and 3/16 inch holes in locations to plug weld. The firewall slide under the front of the floor pan. To fit the new firewall I had to make several relief cuts in the hump of the floor pan, which I can weld/grind and will not be seen once the carpet is in.

First photo is the car without firewall/cowl panel - I am going screw everything together and then test fit with the new hood and front fenders.

Second photo is of the new and old firewall for comparison. I will get better photos and photos of the new lower cowl panel.

Overall the new firewall seems to be a good fit and the stamping is fairly close to the original. The sheet metal is a bit thicker, which cannot hurt. The new panel also comes with reinforcement at the area where the pedal support caused flexing before.






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rkmiller73
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OK so for an update:

I have fitted and welded the firewall in place and then I fitted the two halves of the cowl on the car, then used sheet metal screws to hold them in place and welded them together.

I also used an old partial dash panel I had and welded in a patch and dash pad support to fix all the dash rust.

I am going to order front fenders and the hood for fitting purposes prior to final welding of the firewall/cowl.

I made metal patches for the rust section on the top of the inner fender splash panels and welded them in after cleaning things out.

It has been slow lately, some bills came up and diverted my funds - Air condtioner at the house and a few other things.

I will try to get a few photos up, but overall it is not very dramatic at this point.


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ozbilt
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rkmiller73 wrote

Overall the new firewall seems to be a good fit and the stamping is fairly close to the original. The sheet metal is a bit thicker, which cannot hurt. The new panel also comes with reinforcement at the area where the pedal support caused flexing before.




The new firewall is the later firewall design for the newer steering box & separate column. Your car must have been an early car with the long shaft steering box.

The reinforcing is for the collapsible column. However both types of steering box fits without issue.


Kerry

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rkmiller73
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Kerry,

My car was a Nov 66 build. It came with the two piece steering column/box that is associated more with later production. From what I have researched the big block cars recieved these early on before the rest of main stream production. My car was also a power steering car.
I checked the build tag on the box and it is a SEP 66 build date.

I measured out the holes on the firewalls and they match up, the new firewall even has the cut for the power disc brake booster. Spot On

The Dynacorn firewall fit well. It has been the best part so far.

I did also get the lower cowl section from Dynacorn and it was OK, did take some tweaking before I welded the original upper to the new lower. Also a couple brakets on it were clocked wrong so I had to cut and reweld them. Same thing happened with the Dynacorn radiator support. I have not welded in the rad support yet (just sheet metal screws) in hopes that thoroughbred Gt will come out soon with a new rad support, battary tray apron and rear quarter panels.

Last I talked to Nate at Thoroughbred GT those were coming soon - whatever that means.

Also do you guys have any comments on the complete door shells from Dynacorn. I may have to just reskin and fix rust on my original doors. Just looking for some pros/cons on fit and function before I put a lot of time and money into the old doors.


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nassi
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I have fitted a few dynacorn shells, the 68 required very little tweeking and did line up well against the original fender and quarter panel. The 65/66 shells have had a variety of issues but still quicker than a re-skin I think.


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rkmiller73
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I am not sure what to do.

I may try to fix them just for the challenge. I don't have a deadline and have another car that runs so I can usually get my driving fix.

For now I am going to concentrate on getting the front end of the body shell together.

Will work this weekend to clean up a few things on her and then probably order the fenders/hood. My shop space down here in Texas is a bit cramped so need to have things ready to go on for fitting when the parts arrive.


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rkmiller73
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So it has been a while since I posted an update.

I worked on:
dash and dash pad support.
Intall new firewall
Fitted and welded the lower/upper cowl together
Fitted the cowl assembly to the car
Repositioned the outer door X brace I put on to the inside of the car so I can hang the doors for rear quarter panel fitting.
Fixed the rust on the top of the inner fender/engine bay aprons at the overlaps
Bought rear quarters, decklid, outer wheel wells

The dash pad had soaked up moisture from the broken windshield and rusted. I had part of an old original dash and cut it to fit, then welded it in place. I also took the dash pad support of the parts piece and had it dipped for rust/paint and then welded it to the dash.





Here is the firewall fitting/welding. To get the firewall in with the floor pan there I had to make some strategic cuts to pull it back a little on the floor pan transmission hump and then reelded.






Here is the fitting of the cowl and export brace. I had to loosen up the front mounts on the jig to work the brace back into place. I used clamps and small sheet metal screws to hold it in place for now.



Then I bought both rear quarter panel assemblies, outer wheel houses, tail light panel and decklid through Thoroughbred GT. They ship through a wholesale distributor that has a ware house about a 40 minute drive from my house. Saved some shipping! So I went by there today and here is a picture of the warehouse. Lots of parts for all kinds of classic Fords, Chevy, Chrystler.

Will Post photos of the parts in a few days.



Last edited by rkmiller73 on Thu Oct 24, 2013 4:49 pm; edited 1 time in total

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