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Q&A > General Tech Advice > Motor build, opinions please. > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Motor build, opinions please. Reply to topic

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boofhead
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The Compression height tells you the range (above to below) the deck of the block the piston could be at the top of its stroke. So if it -0.060 means it can be 60 thou below the deck height. It can be above the deck height because you install a head gasket which keeps the head X above the deck height (where X depends on the compression or crush of the gasket).

In most cases if you are doing all the machine work on the crank and rods etc then purchasing a stroker kit is an attractive option. I would say go for it.
There are only a few items more that need to be clearenced checked though it does not make it any more complex to build the engine. It will make a huge difference to the performance of the engine.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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hybrid
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My block had to be clearanced for the rod bolts in my 347 kit, so make sure you trial fit and turn the engine over by hand before bolting the whole lot together if you're going stroker.


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Shaunp
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You'll always need to clearance the bottom of the bores for the rod bolts on a 347


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xpconnor
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Good article on strokers in mustang monthly last year.
Talks about that exact issue of rod bolts hitting the skirt on 347.

www.mustangmonthly.com...index.html


"The Mustang is full of Awesome"

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hybrid
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Yep, that's the money shot.



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boofhead
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It is a nothing job to notch the bottom of the cylinder. I should have been more specific in my earlier post when I said 'a few items more that need to be clearance checked'. I would do the notching before you send it off to the engine machinist. I would also review your head choices though you Ford X Racing head (aka Canfields 205 high ports) would be perfect for it. Also, you can go a little larger in the CAM Specs e.g. up to 230. A 347 will be a better engine than a 351 standard stroke 351 Windsor. Also, easier to work on - which is always nice.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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hybrid
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My engine builder did it all for me. When they are doing all the other machining, the cost was negligible to do the clearancing.


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trav68
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Engine has been dropped off at machine shop for the following:

Bore and hone 0.020"
Micro polish crank
Deck top of block
Resize stock rods and fit ARP bolts
Balance rotating assembly
Line bore (existing ok not being touched)

Machine shop (Harris Engines) will supply Hypatec pistons (and rebuild kit with Felpro gaskets) with final compression ratio 9.5 - 10:1 with 58cc head.

Any tips on on timing chains, covers and eccentrics to use as I have researched a fair bit and misfits/clearance issues seem to be common. From my research I was planning on using a Ford Racing chain, cover and 1 pce eccentric as feedback seems to be they all work together. Part nos as follows:

Ford Racing M-6059-D351
Ford Racing M-6268-A302
Ford Racing M-6287-B302

Other parts bottom end parts:
Melling Performacne Pump - Std volume and std pressure
ARP Oil Pump Driveshaft
ARP rod and head bolts

Valvetrain:
Cam - Trickflow Stage 1
Pushrods - Trickflow (will confirm length prior to order)
Lifters - Trickflow TFS-21400004-16 OEM style
Heads - Probably TW170 58cc ( will use stock springs as cam lift is not extreme)
Rockers - Trickflow TFS-51400510 (seem OK value at $270)
Inlet - Weiand Stealth
Carb - Holley Avenger 650 ( thinking 570 might start to become a bottle neck with the heads and cam but have not done much research yet)

Any comments on my valvetrain parts/brand selection or known quality issues. Don't want to spend mega $$ but also donÒ€ℒt want buy crap which will give me grief.

Thanks,
Trav


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Shaunp
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Get an Australian made Roller master chain red box , the billet one with the multi key so you can dial the cam.


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Shaunp
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Also a 302 at 100% VE that revs to 6k need 524 cfm, and it won't 100% VE


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trav68
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OK thanks - I have not done much research into required carb cfm but will stick with the 570 (electric choke) based on that.

The Ford Racing chain is adjustable I already checked that. Got a degreee wheel coming and already got a dial gauge in the shed so will degree cam.

Anything else look a miss in my shopping list?


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Shaunp
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Carb spacer, get a plastic 4 hole type to keep the carb cool, 1' thick if the bonnet will still close.


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boofhead
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All sounds good to me. I like to use a larger carb than the calculations tell you. The Holley 650 (670) is a good choice for what your trying to do. The vacuum secondaries will control required flow. I do suggest you just double check the standard spring rates on the heads to make sure you have enough for the CAM selected. Otherwise - great choice and I know it will be a good strong engine.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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trav68
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Next dumb question....

TW170 heads seem to come in various configurations via summit. 7/16 studs would be better than 3/8" with the only downside that rockers are slightly more expensive - correct?

Noticed Summit only have the 7/16" stud versions in stock at the moment in single head boxes ( need to ship a single to avoid GST)

Valve springs
Duals springs would be preferred to singles? I got PAC singles on my LS1 and runnign a bit more lift and similiar durations to my planned cam.

With regards required spring pressures on seat and at lift where is the requirement defined? cam card?

Cheers,
Trav


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Shaunp
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Roller cam need harder springs then flat tappet, because the ramps are more agressive, and valves tend to float as a result. Make sure the springs have enough travel for your cam lift, including rocker ratio


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