I have a couple of items at work I need to check to comment further on the speedo sender....i.e new parts (some of which might be available at a nice price if usefull)
The voltage from the speedo item I also need to check. There is a simple work around for it, which I have done on a ford ecu and holden ecu. Problem is they work opposite, so I am likely to get confused without looking at the paperwork.
As for your guages and switches. I need some feedback from you.
a) Are you intending to use as much of the EB loom as you can?
b) Are you intending only to use enough EB loom as you need to make the engine trans combo work
B is easier. A is the best.
Option A gives you some big advantages. Fuses are easier to procure. There is very little electrical load on the loom and switches, as most of the switches simply trigger relays. This lower 'load' on the switch actually makes dodgy switches work great.
I've done a couple of EFI and plain wiring conversions. Am happy to give advice/tips as you need
On option B, the biggest one I have done, was an EL loom into a naturally aspirated 351c XR ute....no computers. Big job, but the result is simply awesome. I might bail my rice burner owner mate to come out and run the video over it for ya.
That voltage from the gauge pack is interesting i suppose ill just have to see what happens. That cluster in the glove box was just a trial run when it was LHD im not doing that in the rhd conversion
The issue i had with the headers was not just the left hand flange, that is easy, the RHS was very close to my RHS Fairlane brake booster conversion infact i dont think it fitted, however those factory 5.0l headers are very restrictive and not much better than the original cast iron manifolds which is why i decided to build my own. Infact i would use the cast iron Falcon windsor ones like i did for my mockup run because they fit real good and have pretty much the same size outlet as the EB factory manifold anyway. Also Shayne dont forget i have RRS notched towers otherwise those EB headers wont fit without alot more modification.
Other than that he has done pretty much the same as i have with the speedo drive adapter and removed the wiring one bit at a time. I had the whole harness plugged together and draped over the fenders and roof with the engine able to start. Then unplugged trip computers etc to see if it affected anything, then removed the rear door wiring and ABS computer and wiring. Then shoved the whole lot into the passenger side (RHS at the time) and the Guage cluster in the glove box. Then test drove it a few times checking operation of the auto shift etc before removing it all for the rebuild and RH conversion.
The Ron Morris engine mounts are the way to go but unsure which ones to get for a 66 as they come in std and lower config, either way it will be different for a 66 as there is slightly more room in a 67 onwards where the a/c compessor hits the tower.
Great info, try and milk as much as possible from him.
Good stuff, I'll get my car back in the next few weeks. The Auto Elec guru that works with Griffs wired mine up. He used the entire NC loom and modified it with a few bits of the original loom. My car runs now but still needs a few things done to finish off.
I plan on using the entire fairlane loom so I can even run the 'Ghia' options in the mustang like electric windows as the wiring is already there.
Scott:- Thanks for the feedback on the headers, I will go through your thread on options as I don't really want early style manifolds.
This car we are talking about has been converted to RHD with the Falcon/Fairlane M/C and booster but has MII front end, don't know if that makes a difference.
I have the RMP adjustable engine mounts, got them from CJ Pony Parts and ordered them in standard height and 1/2 inch drop, its just 4 extra plates you get. See Cjponyparts.com
I got the idea from Tim
As for the speedo, this bloke is saying shiftkits.com.au told him about the issue needing the cluster voltage.
A while ago I had thought about getting a higher than GLi series instrument cluster and gutting it so I had all the signal wires for the oil press, tach (I'll run rally pac tach).... so there is possibly a way to get around that voltage issue too, just put it into a little box and mount it under the dash.
I am doing option B so the speedo voltage is an interesting one as well.
I have pulled all the wiring and all of the 5 computers from the car. The next step is unwind it all (mostly done now) and then follow it to separate the gearbox dependent boxes from the rest. It is likely that some of the remaining loom will also make it into the final product. Always interested in peoples issues and solutions as we are travelling along similar roads.
I suspect more will be as well as there is a lot of inexpensive fairlanes around at the moment.
had a bit of a look around. The adapter I have, is designed to go onto the end of your original cable at the under dash end, not only to run the ECU, but also an electronic speedo, so this ain't going to work for you.
Wiring from Instrument panel to ECU's.
White wire. Speedo sender Pulse. Shared by both ECU's and speedo display. Nothing to be done here, and can be ignored.
Red wire. Speedo sender Power. I can't recall off the top of my head, but i'm pretty sure this is a 12v feed out. It may be 5v, but I don't think it is. The stewart warner and Marks 4wd adapters all run on 12v. Just a matter of volt testing it before you pull it apart....if you have I can check mine.
You will need to replace the power feed here as it is taken from within the cluster.
Green Wire. Direct to EAT-ECU. This one is power FROM the ECU to light up the warning globe for power mode. You do need to wire this in, as the globe also forms part of the diagnostics for the EAT-ECU.
The smart lock, I am aware you can actually hard wire out of the equation. But if you are going to run power windows etc, you might as well leave the smart lock in position and add yourself some central locking If you do that, you only need to remove the diode from within the instrument cluster, and wrap it into the loom.
If you want some diagrams pm me your email and i'll scan em to ya.
Thought I might Relocate this question from Scotts Fairstang project, as I thought It might be handy for future reference for others if we can keep some of it together.
Scott, have you figured out how you will wire up the light, wiper and indicator switches yet? or are you running the falcon/fairlane switches?
Tail lamps. Not too hard. you can use the falcon output for this.
Reverse lamps. As above.
Rear Indicators are a problem. You have 3 options here.
1) Leave it as it came out of the US, as the switching is handled in the indicator switch (IIRC). (This is how I would go)
2) The Taillight Amber conversion. This requires 1 new wire to be run to the Rear for the closest indicator. Then run a wire between the 2 brake lights. You use the longest brake light wire as an indicator wire.
3) Reverse Lamp conversion. IIRC, the reverse lamps are dual pin. That lets you replace the globe with a dual filament. The above wiring changes are needed also. It won't hurt to run a short earth either, as the housings are rubber mounted. Use an Orange globe, so you can use the clear lens for that 'original' look. The downside of this, is if you plan on night driving, then you are going to have CRAP reverse lamps. I.e 5w orange versus 21w clear/white.
Front lighting. If the switch is the same as an XR Falcon (which I cannot see it being different) then this is a no brainer. The biggest thing to understand is how the 2 vehicles vary, and then go hunting for how to exploit that difference in the mustang switch. (if the muzzy switch is different...no probs, we'll just adapt an XR/XW/XY one)
The variation is that, the mustang switch receives Power and then send it out to the lights.
The E series switch recieves power and earth. It sends power to the interior lighting and instrument lights, and earth out to the headlamp relays. It also combines with the indicator switch to do this. (for high beam)
One way, is to leave the mustang switch operating the way it was designed, and have it send power to the relays. This gets messy as you then need to go down and alter the wiring on the Relay.
The simplest way is to do it through the switch(s)
Ok, lets look at the floor button first.
You need to connect that directly to the head lamp relays, and leave the wire back to the muzzy switch as is. Easy peasy.
Now the hardest part............well not really LOL.
The mustang switch comprises 4 individual circuits.
Park /tail lamps.
A little bit of work with the diagram and some continuity testing will help you out here, but the changes needed are very minor.
Interior/instrument Both require input power. That's easy enough.
Parkers/Tails. IIRC, they take their power from the Headlamps input wire. So putting this to earth will also take care of the headlamps.
So the connections really only need one change from mustang factory. Supply an earth on the Headlamp/Parker circuit instead of power.
Hazard lights. Omit, or use the EB's wiring and fit a 'funny' looking switch.
Wipers. IIRC are not relayed in the EB/EL loom, so you need to wind the original wiring for that into your new loom. Take the power feed from the accessory Relay.
If you 2 want to see the one I have done, I can arrange that. You'd need a computer mic and some speakers. Camera optional.
I am planning to send the car i have done home saturday week, so you'd need to move fast to see it.
Yes but the wiring doesnt use a relay and the H4 globes draw too much current, which then overheats the bi-metal cut out breaker that is incorporated in the original Mustang headlight switch. Which means the headlights cut out while you are driving along, thats not very much fun on a dark country road that is very narrow and runs a ditch on each side of it whilst travelling at a good speed, which is what happened to me when i was in my old Falcon once that has the same type of switch . I Shat meself
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