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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Weighing up my options on the EFI > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Weighing up my options on the EFI Reply to topic

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scott66stang
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i think the bypass may be a better option, but to be honest i dont know much about it. However you will at least have to join the rear door wires to trick it. If i plug in the fairlane cluster it shows the rear doors open, and the alarm sounds.


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Shayne93
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Thats a piece of cake... I do know of the bypass kit you can buy.
And thats another weigh up... Factory ford security, or bypass it and get the penis extention alarm with remote start.... But i WILL NOT be running those gay little alarm chimes all the ricer dicks have to lock their car and say "Look everybody, I'm a wanker, and I'm here!"


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Shaunp
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Just use an inline injection pump, no need to mod the tank, expect for a spill return line from the regulator


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Shayne93
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Shaunp wrote
Just use an inline injection pump, no need to mod the tank, expect for a spill return line from the regulator


You can even buy sender units for the mustang tanks now with a return cock and its just a matter of finding a pump that does the same pressure as the fairlane, which wouldnt be hard


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Shaunp
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They are all pretty much the same It's the regulator that setts the pressure, in real terms. Most early injected cars had inline pumps, you can just mount it under the floor. 70s injected Jags, Rangies, probably even VK injected commodores, I use to buy generic ones for Jags for less than $100. The other issue with running the factory manifold Is you may to make some different shock tower braces, to clear it.


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Shayne93
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Here is Scott's, and from memory, he hasn't done the 1/2 inch drop on his motor, only shifted if forward for the air con compressor


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scott66stang
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Shaunp wrote
Just use an inline injection pump, no need to mod the tank, expect for a spill return line from the regulator
And the charcoal canister return that i ran to the filler neck.
I fitted a bosch inline pump on my mock up with the insulator and wasnt happy with the noise it made and soldered a return into the original fuel sender. I personally like the pump in the tank but each to their own.


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66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
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scott66stang
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Shayne93 wrote
Shaunp wrote
Just use an inline injection pump, no need to mod the tank, expect for a spill return line from the regulator


You can even buy sender units for the mustang tanks now with a return cock and its just a matter of finding a pump that does the same pressure as the fairlane, which wouldnt be hard
you can buy a sender fitted with the return and pump aswell, mustangs plus have them.


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

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Shayne93
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Hey Scott, those photos above, have they got the necessary engine bay wiring in them?


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scott66stang
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Thats right shayne there isnt the 1/2 " drop in that pic and it clears the brace. It was moved forward originally in my mockup to clear the aircon from the towers (Before i notched the towers) and to bring the gearbox mount forward more which also means you dont need to shorten the tailshaft, the yoke spline is the same.
However i have since slotted the engine mount bolt holes and dropped it 1/2 inch for extra clearance which also allowed me to raise the gearbox.
I suggest getting those Ron Morris mounts it will make the job easier.


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

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scott66stang
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Shayne93 wrote
Hey Scott, those photos above, have they got the necessary engine bay wiring in them?
No None at all, it does get messy in there as i am running the cruise control and all the relays etc. to hide the original wiring in the fenders would proberly be a big job removing all the plugs , possibly extending some etc. Im not too concerned with that as i will be making stainless coolant bottle with a relay cover and copying it on the other side of the engine bay as part of the air filter box. There is a cardboard mock up some where in my thread.

here it is, most of that wiring you see is hidden under that, keep in mind these pics are just the wiring thrown in there on my mockup.







Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
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Shayne93
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scott66stang wrote
Shayne93 wrote
Hey Scott, those photos above, have they got the necessary engine bay wiring in them?
No None at all, it does get messy in there as i am running the cruise control and all the relays etc. to hide the original wiring in the fenders would proberly be a big job removing all the plugs , possibly extending some etc. Im not too concerned with that as i will be making stainless coolant bottle with a relay cover and copying it on the other side of the engine bay as part of the air filter box. There is a cardboard mock up some where in my thread.


I don't think I'm going to run cruise tbh.
Have you changed your air filter setup from the pod filter between the inner and outer guard?


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scott66stang
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Thats the reasoning of using the entire wiring harness, to replicate all the Fairlane options, although im not using the ABS , but i want to use the rear self leveling setup i will fit later and just plug in..
Changed the design from a plastic cover under the fender to a welded box in the apron but im still going to have a replica cover on that side that the airflow meter bolts to , to make it all pretty.


Edit: im desperately trying to get back working on my project, apart from just sorting the headers out i havent been able to touch it for 3 months as things keep ruining my plans. The last thing i was doing was the dash and engine wiring when i left it to build my Thought collecting couch, i didnt realise at the time i was gonna have a hard time getting back to it.
Im only on the computer now because im a house bitch inside caring for 7 Foster kids over the school holidays. 😢


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

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Shayne93
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I was just speaking to the old man and we will probably look at putting the loom unside the car and extending it. As for your tailshaft Scott, did you not shorten it? Is it out of a falcon?


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Shayne93
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Scott, check this out, its AU XR8 running gear in an xp coupe
Nlj59uxqBdU


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