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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Weighing up my options on the EFI > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Shayne93
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Hi all,
I have hit a point where I am questioning the EFI for my mustang.
Ive got an NC V8 Fairlane as a donor (EFI 5L, BTR 4speed and LSD)

I am wondering should I pull the injection off and run carby setup.
1. its much easier for wiring, less crap to break.
2. it looks a whole lot nicer!

I was thinking of getting an AOD from the states, the gear ratios on them and the BTR are nearly identicle, but the AOD doesnt have a computer Smile and you can get a new/rebuilt standard one in the US for about $700 or a you-beaut one for about $1100.
I would still have the LSD shortened for the Stang.

How difficult is it to remove the injection and add a carby. I imagine its manifold and carby, new dizzy, new flywheel for AOD...

Cheers.


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Shaunp
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I think you'll find the NC box has a stand alone ecu that just needs a TPS, to work. AODs are crap boxes you are better with the BTR. Boofhead will chime in here shortly but he built a mega sqirt ECU and it has been trial fitted and run on an NC donner car, seems fine and drives ok. It will all be transplanted to a 66 fastback when the car is ready, for it. I'd go that way pretty cheap option.


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Shayne93
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Everyone I speak to has something different to say about it. Its like :S
Its just all that plumbing and wiring in the engine bay thats a turn off for EFI.


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Shaunp
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Here is one me and a mate did, with an EMS daul sport ECU made in Sydney. We had the manifold adaptors cast at a local foundry. We made the templates from wood and bog





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boofhead
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I am currently doing a similar conversion (not my car so helping out though leading the injection side of the project) using an NC for the engine and BTR gear box. So;

1) Easy way out version 1 (No injection).
Take the injection manifold off and bolt on a dual plane manifold and a holey 4V, replace the distributor with a mech/vac advance model and replace the gear box with a C4.

You will have a nice engine with the roller cam that looks basically standard (depending on if you keep the serpentine belts) that is simple to get to work and maintain. Nothing much to go wrong and rock solid.

2) Harder version 1 (Standard injection).
Use all the original parts. This includes gearbox, engine and especially sections of the wring loom and the 3 CPU boxes. This is the way scottstang is doing his car. He has done an amazing job so you should read his build thread.

3) Harder version 2 (Partial standard injection).
Use an after market CPU.
(a) This is easier if you also remove the BTR gear box and use a C4. It makes the wiring easier and there is no issues with the controller for the gear box.

Earlier NC have a separate CPU for the BTR box with makes this easier to control when replacing the master Engine CPU. Later NCs have the BTR box control built into the main CPU so if your is like that then your best to try and find a separate control box model. It does not require to many inputs to control it. Primary one is it has its own TPS - you can see this wired in on the throttle body. Keeping the BTR does complicate the process but it is possible.

You have a number of possible computer options including building one yourself (as I have done as I am using a Megasquirt II). In any direction it is more complex and more expensive to complete.

At the end of the day its your choice. Maybe a carbi to start then move later to an EFI swap - just keep the parts for when your ready.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Shayne93
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I wouldn't do the half injection...
Im yes on injection due to the fairlane being all there, still starts and drives.
I'm no on it due to the looks.
I'll probably wait til Scott has all his engine bay wiring completely done and make the final decision.


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HEVEN67
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If its only a cruiser the EFI is perfect, it may seem a little tourtous at first but the end result will be worth the extra effort. luvhev


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Shayne93
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^^ And that is exactly what it is to be, a cruiser. The start first time everytime thing with EFI is what I like Razz


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boofhead
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Sounds like you have made a decision. Good stuff.
Use all the original parts and the engine will not know it is in a mustang. This includes retro fitting the Fuel pump so you have the correct fuel pressure for the standard CPU engine map.

Have fun with it. If you have any issues lots of people here can provide guidance.


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stu67
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My father and i have retrofit the EF falcon fuel pump into the stock 16gallon tank, easy to do....will post some pics shortly on my build thread (when i pull my finger out and update it)

http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w219/jarvegimite/2011-8-07/

Edit: Ok, here is the album with how we did it, tap some holes in the tank and into a backing plate(note rivets), machines a clamp plate on the lathe, then clamp the pump to the tank...if you place the pump in the centre of the tank where we have the float will fit perfectly into the small recess at the bottom.



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scott66stang
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Excellent job on the pump fitment Stu, thats exactly how i planned to do mine when i eventually get some more time on it.
I brought a larger tank and was going to recess if needed but was going to try my original tank first because it looks like it will fit, but looking at yours its taken away my trial and error. Good stuff Thumbs Up

So was that pump from the sedan plastic or wagon steel tank? And how did you fit the backing plate though the hole, in 2 halves or just sliced and wound in?


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

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stu67
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Hey Scott,

The pump was from the sedan plastic tank, and you are spot on with the backing plate, sliced it and wound it in, then riveted it into place. Means there are so many less areas to fix up like wiring and all we need to do is make a fuel return. We are making our own fuel line/return with the pipe bender using the rusted original as a template. Should be fun Smile


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scott66stang
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Shayne93 wrote
I wouldn't do the half injection...
Im yes on injection due to the fairlane being all there, still starts and drives.
I'm no on it due to the looks.
I'll probably wait til Scott has all his engine bay wiring completely done and make the final decision.
Shayne i drove the Mustang around the block a couple of times almost 3 years ago when it was LHDand all the wiring was stuffed in the passengers side floor, im using the complete fairlane wiring harness headlights to taillights and have only removed the ABS and rear doors wiring. This way the headlights, fuelpump etc already has the heavy wiring and relays, dont forget i have modified the fire wall to take the full Fairlane climate control aircon box aswell. The only other thing i have changed so far is untaping and rerouting the windscreen wiper motor wires from the engine bay back through the grommet into the cabin because the wiper is under the dash. I still havent decided if im using the fairlane dash switches and ignition or if ill retro fit to the original Mustang ones, ill proberly have to spend more time on the thought ciollecting couch for that one. Drink

With a later model NC/EB they have the smart lock which you also have to get around. I agree with the list that Boofhead has provided that a carby and c4 is the easiest and good option, dont forget the LH starter on the BTR also gives you header headaches although the std cast manifolds fit no problems and there is a few tunnel mods for selector linkage clearance and if you dont want it hanging too low.
Its a hard one and all depends on how patient you are, its great thou that now a few on here are going this way and the info and help is there.


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

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Shayne93
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I've got smartlock, but I've half figured for the lock situation.
Buy a lock set for an XG/XH ute, you have Tibbe Key door locks suit the older style doors and mechanisms, and then just run the fairlane key inside the car, and still being able to use the remote. A lock set with the 2 doors and ignition is only about $110, then just run a standard mustang boot lock, which I won't probably carry the key for because i will have remote boot release.
I've got the Ron Morris lowered and adjustable engine mounts. It only lowers the engine by half inch but in my eyes its a decent amount to still be practicle.


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moe
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Could always bypass the smartlock:
www.shiftkits.com.au/i...ducts_id=4

Here is a discussion on the AODE stand alone controller:
www.fordmods.com/ford-...21574.html


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