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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Mike's 68 > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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cage
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WOW Mike there is some serious stuff going on there. Nice work mate. Can't wait to see the progress.


"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

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mikes68
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Originally posted by Lance (muss67)

Hi Mike,

Looking really good a Credit to you. Firstly talk with you blaster and see what 'stlye / sort ' of primer he uses.

My guidance would be to use either a 1k Acid etch like Standox 1k primer and give what there is of the car 2 really good coats getting into all visible nooks and crannies. This primer is World class in rust prevention and is also Lloyds Approved as a weld through primer.

Other choice would be to use a 2pak epoxy primer again great rust prevention and once dry with a light scuff can be bogged over which is the optimum way to fill repairs.

If you talk to Geoff or John @ Park Automotive they will have a full range of items and guidance to assist you let them know Lance Weiss sent you and anything you buy in Automotive Paint ask for the TDS this sheet gives you all the right ways to use the products. pressures etc.


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mikes68
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Originally posted by Lance (muss67)
QUOTE LANCE:
Okay let's see if I can communicate this effectively taking it from the top od Shaunp's comment, depending on the make up of the etch a blaster uses Shaunp is close to right.

Hi-Chem and the like contain an amount of Solids and are either grey or black in colour, however like Standox and Spies Hecker 1k's they are acid based etches and as such should 'NEVER" be filled over with Nikki/Bog/Bondo. They are designed to create corrosion resistance. I would scuff them lightly with paper or Scotchbrite then two pak prime over them asap and then commence filler work.

Any etch that is transparent yellow/green like the old Wattyl needs to be sealed with Primer within about 15:20 minutes of application. (They must never be scuffed their resistance comes from being closed on application if you sand this style of product because of inclusions like dust then you must recover the area with the same product then prime.

By the manual Standox 1k has an exposed (inside a shed) life of 3:6mths (I left mine for about 14 without an issue) However the variable in all this is Humidity so local conditions come into play more often than not.
Cheers
Lance.


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mikes68
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Thanks heaps Lance... that is what I wanted to know about I guess.

The blasting has been arranged through a friend and is really just getting use of the facilities and we will be doing it ourselves. The guy giving us access to his facilities said he will come in and spray it in prime for us - not sure why, maybe just wants to be part of something great :+

Unless "my guy" actually uses one of the products you have mentioned then I have been planning to pay a visit to Geoff or John and just get "the right stuff" for him to use... That said, I will see what he uses and post it up here for comment but I don't have an issue with buying the good stuff on your advice...:(

One other quick question, how long between the 2 coats you recommend - although I'm sure that is in the TDS?


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mikes68
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Originally posted by Lance (muss67)
Mike,
1k Primer needs about 10 minutes flash between coats @ 20deg C it lays down very flat and is super thin like all etches O filling capacity. It is possible also to let the final coat flash for 20 to 30 minutes and then apply a coat of 2k Primer Surfacer over it. ( process is referred to as 'wet on wet' even though the surface would feel dry.

Another bit of counsel, when you blast or strip a car 'try' nee DO not touch the surface with bare hands or other body parts. Blast it, air blow and vacuum it off, wax and grease it if necessary with gloved hands and then prime it. The oils and acids in our skin can and does cause havoc down the line in a painting process/

Shaun,
Whilst i left mine in 1k for 14mths I reblasted the car prior to going onto to painting, poor blaster had the devil's own job removing two coats of 1k with soda, as it had etched itself into the surface so well.

1k is also fantastic to spray on edges of panels before welding them on, similar to the copper spray from Wurth.

Cheers
Lance.


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mikes68
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Wow... I must say that I always knew that the painting process was a science (and indeed an art) but this is just about doing my head in ;x;w:+

1k etches, primers, 2 paks, time between, blah blah blah... becoming white noise!

CRIKEY!!!


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mikes68
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I put a couple of hours into the rotisserie this afternoon to try and get a bit closer to finishing these off. I hope to complete this over the coming weekend.

I still have some gussets to weld in place in the frames and I may get some wheels (same as those on the jig). Luckily for me this hasn't been a particularly costly exercise so I should probably splash out on the wheels to make it easier for myself.

As you can see this is an adjustable rotisserie and should be well and truly capable of supporting any reasonable car body.






I also just need to duck down to the local hardware store and get some bolts to actually fasten the body to the rotisserie.






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Nuts
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Nice work Mike.


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mikes68
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Despite the fact that I "allow" my wife to park her car in the garage, it is an ongoing exercise of mine to truly establish this area of the house as my "man-cave".

To the left of that picture is another hanging on the wall. My wife gave me one of "those looks" when she saw me trying to sneak out through the kitchen with one of her picture frames to mount my other picture in...:*


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I got it up and spun on the rotisserie today. At this time I am just using 1/4" pins through the pivot points to lock it in place as I think that will do me for now. I'll look at putting a proper brake system on it later perhaps so it can be stopped in any position. I am still looking at getting hold of a couple of inexpensive hydraulic rams also however having just used a jack and some bricks etc to get it up this morning that may not be really necessary. I couldn't quite get it up the whole way to find the CoG however it spins very easily by hand regardless so it isn't too far off.







One thing which I think will be a must is some wheels on the rotisserie as it will just be too much of a PITA to be putting it back down on the jig to move it.

I do need to close the garage door to spin it otherwise the body fouls on the garage door when it is in the up position. The windscreen frame clears the ceiling of the garage by about 2 to 3 inches.


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mikes68
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I got a little tired of only pulling and cutting stuff out so today I decided it was about time I put something back into the project. I have a number of panels either here or on the way. One of the repro panels already here is the inner fender for the right front side.



So it was time to do some more drilling out of spot welds (:a). Along with a little hammer and chiseling to finish off the job and finally a touch up with the 4" angle grinder to clean it up.



This part of the resto also gave me the opportunity to use my cleco fasteners for the first time. The first time I saw these was on another blog and I couldn't order them quick enough. Well I must say that having used them this morning I can't heap enough praise on them as a tool for use during any vehicle restoration involving panel work.



You see the clecos' in place here making my new (battery tray) inner fender section all positioned up. As it is shown below, I have just drilled 1/8" holes all around and plugged in all the fasteners to make sure it all sits in nice and snug.



I will need to remove it all again and prep all of the seams properly before it is all closed backup (for good)... I will also need to drill out all of the 1/8" holes in the new panel to about a 1/4" or 3/8" to enable each of the holes to be plug / spot welded. There are about 40 welds to be done to complete this piece of work but it will be nice to see some new metal in place soon.



I must say that this panel was relatively easy to remove... the spot welds are not hard to drill out, just tedious if you have a lot to do.

Firewall / footwell area

Before I started on this today, I had also made a start on chopping out some of the firewall around the foot area of the driver's side. I didn't grab any "action" shots of this. I was a little concerned about the rust in the footwell area and how much the torque box may be affected. I cut away a section of the lower firewall and for the most part the torque box was in very good condition however the plate that backs behind the firewall was completely shot down the left hand side. Again, the repro parts are relatively inexpensive and as I have it exposed now it does not look too complicated to replace. As I will be replacing the rockers I will be sorting out this at the same time...


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mikes68
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Don't you just love it when new stuff arrives... it's like Christmas all over again!!! :redpepper:

Amongst my delivery was the complete floor pan which came with the lower reinforcement pans, rear torque box patches and the bag of plugs for the floor.

Top side:



Under side:



Lower reinforcement pans, rear torque box patches and plug kit:



Standing behind the floor pan in the first image above is the new bonnet (with turn signal indicator slots) and the box with the new qtr panel skins, trunk drop offs, convertible top and some other little bits and pieces.


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Although not shown in the image below, the body is supported at the front cross bar and the rear leaf spring shackles.



Also,
    The floor pan is completely out. Most of the firewall is intact with a small exception in the left lower footwell above the front torque box. The firewall is still completely attached to the rear inner fenders The (left) side cowl panel is reasonably good although fairly rusted along the top. The quarter skin is (mostly) off with only an inch or so width all around the top, B pillar and bottom

Now given the support on the jig in the above image, my question is:

Can I remove both the inner and outer rocker on one side at once thereby completely severing the front and rear ends on one side?

Would there be too much risk in the body moving out of line?

My intention is to replace both inner and outer rockers, front torque box and the rear torque box top patch.


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mikes68
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Originally posted by Kerry (Ozbilt)
Is the body bolted to the jig? If really solid there is no reason why you could not do as you stated. However after setting the new rocker in place, have the door & front fender fitted up so you are certain that all gaps are correct before any welding takes place.


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mikes68
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Thanks Kerry,

It's bolted to the front cross-bar mount points and through the rear frame rails where the rear leaf spring shackles go through.

It is only sitting on the spiggots though (as pictured) where the original factory mounting (jig) points are.

I guess I could do a couple of tack welds there if I was really concerned...

Makes sense fitting up the front fender and door too.


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