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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Tim's 65 vert (Caroline) > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Foresight
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Top work mate. Nice write up too, I bet it took the same amount of time to take the photos/write it up than it did to fix it!


Cheers,
Lee & Q
69 428 mach 1 - Guess who...it's Q!

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Cruzn65
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great work, next panel on mine will be battery apron so this is rather timely


early Mustang enthusiast\collector of all bits Mustang

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unilec5544
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Well done, but don't forget to weld on the brackets on the outside of the aprons for the front fenders. Like


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Nuts
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Well done Tim.


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jas24zzk
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With the tray out and because I am a noob I realised I had drilled too deep when drilling out the spot welds and cut well into the underlying metal. I don't know if it is necessary but I decided to fill the damaged steel with the welder and then grind it back, maybe one of the pros can let me know if this is required?


On these, I normally drill right through and weld the new panel from the outside. Its faster (only drilling once), easier to clean up, and much easier to get the weld penetration.

It goes for any panel replacement, you are always better off welding through the thicker panel where possible.


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
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3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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xpconnor
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Thanks guys

Lee, yes it seemed to take me for ever to get what was in my head onto the screen as words.

Unilec, thanks for posting that as you reminded me to ask whether people recommend welding them into place now or waiting until I start to hang the panels and then use the panel as a guide for where to weld them? Also if anyone has the LH side one I could buy off them that would be good as I think mine is too stuffed to bother rewelding to the car.

Jas that is a good tip. I assume I can apply this to the floors when I start to replace them? That will save having to drill a lot of holes into the pan. Like


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jas24zzk
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Hmm,
gotta keep this in my head that its a vert.

I am hoping you are planning to put a 1 piece floor in. Poke

You probably don't want to be drilling through all the welds, else you be doing some overhead welding. Loopy

Make use of the new underpans that come in the floor kit.

If you use the original seat platform, certainly simply drill straight through during the removal process.

With the reassembly stage, fit the floor, fit the seat platform, and then rough fit the underpans so you can mark out where to drill. You want to drill through the floor pan, in such a way, that when you fit the pans you weld all 3 panels in the one go.

I always drill 4 extra holes right through so i can bolt the 3 panels together nice and tight before welding commeces. If you plan on using the original pans and platform, you can do this step at initial panel removal. That way you know you put it all back together in the same spot.


Cheers
Jas


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
Historic Smash Specialists
3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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xpconnor
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jas24zzk wrote
Hmm,
gotta keep this in my head that its a vert.

I am hoping you are planning to put a 1 piece floor in. Poke

You probably don't want to be drilling through all the welds, else you be doing some overhead welding. Loopy

Make use of the new underpans that come in the floor kit.

If you use the original seat platform, certainly simply drill straight through during the removal process.

With the reassembly stage, fit the floor, fit the seat platform, and then rough fit the underpans so you can mark out where to drill. You want to drill through the floor pan, in such a way, that when you fit the pans you weld all 3 panels in the one go.

I always drill 4 extra holes right through so i can bolt the 3 panels together nice and tight before welding commeces. If you plan on using the original pans and platform, you can do this step at initial panel removal. That way you know you put it all back together in the same spot.


Cheers
Jas


I did see in another post you recommended the full pan over the two individual sides, bad news is I had the pans shipped with the car ages ago before I found this out. So this time I will have to do each side individually but if I ever have another project I will take your advice and just use a one piece pan.

I think the rest of what you are saying makes sense in my head but I won't be tackling the floors for a while so can revisit it then.

Anyone have any opinion on fitting the fender mounts to the apron now or should I wait till I test fit up the fenders and Mount them to suit?


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jas24zzk
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Fender mounts....... Option 2. Mount to suit.

I normally do them by pre-measuring from the body, but as you have already removed them, this option isn't viable.


You've already got half floors..........

Well sell them. You will be doing yourself a favour.
On a coupe/fastback I might be more amenable to going that way, but on a vert for a first timer that isn't trained. Ditch the idea, do the job in a day and be rapt to the back axles with the result.


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
Historic Smash Specialists
3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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xpconnor
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jas24zzk wrote
Fender mounts....... Option 2. Mount to suit.

I normally do them by pre-measuring from the body, but as you have already removed them, this option isn't viable.


You've already got half floors..........

Well sell them. You will be doing yourself a favour.
On a coupe/fastback I might be more amenable to going that way, but on a vert for a first timer that isn't trained. Ditch the idea, do the job in a day and be rapt to the back axles with the result.


I thought about pre measuring the fender mounts but the LH one was so bent it was a bit of a, where the f@$k do I take the measurement from, anyway I will fit them to suit the fender now.

Had a look at those full floor pans online Shocked they are not cheap. US prices seem reasonable but OZ prices, wowsers.
Luckily I won't be tackling the floors for a while so I will do some cost calculations and see if I can find a way to get the full pan.
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xpconnor
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Steady as she goes

Had a bit of time off over Chrissy so got to spend some time with Caroline

Last time I was working on her the weather wasn't great so instead of sandblasting I had a go at the front aprons, oh and I hate sandblasting. This time I couldn't use the weather as an excuse. However I did still have a couple of mods to make to my rotisserie so I could get the car to spin on it. Turns out I didn't need to make any mods to my rotisserie as fathers being what fathers are he had got me a full of awesome Christmas present. Apparently he didn't think the homemade spit was safe enough and stumbled across a tool shop in Melbourne that had a display stock one up for sale at a discounted price. And as he keeps telling me you couldn't by the steel to build it for the price he paid for it. Happy Days Very Happy

So it took me about two days to mod the new rotisserie too suit Caroline (she can be a fussy so and so) and remove the diff and front suspension. I could go into a story of how I was nearly killed by a flying spring compressor as I was removing it from a front coil spring securely fastened in a bench vice, but maybe we save that for another day. Anyway the car was finally on the spit and twirling like Baryshnikov. (I had to google that one)







I didn't mention that early lasy year a tree fell through part of the shed here surprisingly the insurance company coughed up the cash for dad to build a new one. Two bays, one gravel floor and one concrete, of course the pony gets the concrete. Anyway a new shed needs a few basics and seeing as the old man had taken care of stocking it with a tool trolley and chest as well as a heap of other kit I thought I had better help him fit the outdoor sink he wanted, and it got me another day repreive from sandblasting, which I hate.

New tool trolley


Outdoor sink painted and fitted



Finally I got around to doing some blasting which is possibly the shittiest job going around and after blasting through a heap of tips and finding the going pretty slow I remembered the video from the forum where a guy made a tip from a spark plug. Well of course the video on how to do that has been removed from youtube, but while I kept blasting my brother dicked around and managed to make some sort of a tip from a plug. Seems to have been worth the hastle as I have been through 3 full tanks of media with it and have not had to change it yet. So i managed to finish off the trunk floor, the RH wheel arch and the RH rear rail and drop off as well as the quarter. I know it is recommended not to blast the rear quarters but this one is so banged up that I figured if I completely warp the hell out of it I haven't lost much. I hate to think how I would of gone trying to do this job crawling around under the car because even with the spit it was the dirtiest, shittiest, hottest job. Oh did I mention I hate sandblasting.

A few photos of the blasted surfaces







and all painted up






As you can see plenty of rust and panel work to be done but also still plenty of good steel especially the rails which where perfect. As usual after a few days of working on the car I have come up with a few questions so will post them up soon and hope the get some advice from the more knowledable forum members.


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Nuts
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That body doesn't look too bad Tim, you've done well.. Like


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MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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scott66stang
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Great progress Tim, doesnt look too bad rust wise. Glad they make those rear boot to rear window aprons for convertibles now. Mikes68 had to cut down a coupe one.
Nice Crissy pressy too. Thumbs Up


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xpconnor
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Was going to post the questions in the relevant sections of the forum but seeing as my project thread is only 11 pages and others are up at 50 or 60 I felt a bit inadequate so thought I would add it here. Get me coat

Firstly, this is the RH spindle off my car and as the photos show it has a lot of deep gouging in it and is also purple where it has obviously gotten super hot. I assume both are possibly from a bearing failure.

So my question is... is this f@#cked or can I still use it? If it is knackered does anyone know where I can get another as I don't think they reproduce them for 65-66 cars, and approx price?




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xpconnor
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scott66stang wrote
Glad they make those rear boot to rear window aprons for convertibles now. Mikes68 had to cut down a coupe one.


Not sure if I will have a go at replacing that or leave it to someone with more experience, but was glad to see they make repro ones when all those hole started appearing. Even better the convertible ones are the cheapest out of all 3 styles. Thumbs Up


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