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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > hybrids 1966 Coupe Project > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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hybrid
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Last night I moved the meth trigger switch from the supercharger hat into the fuel pressure regulator vacuum (boost) line, so that should stop the meth triggering during decel.
Tomorrow I drive over to my mates place and we pull the box to put the new converter in and also modify the valve body to hopefully cure the gearbox slipping issue.


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hybrid
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Quick update - did the gearbox mods and new converter yesterday.
Not changing into 4th any more. I think it's one of two things.

1) TV cable adjustment still matters, and maybe it's a bit tight, so needs to be loosened up.
2) My mate with tree stumps for fingers overtightened the valve body bolts and is causing the 4th gear valve to stick

The non-lockup 3000 converter has made a big difference. Gear changes are smooth as silk and particularly noticable going into 3rd (and I'm sure 4th when I find it Laughing ) because it's not locking up any more. Not sure if it's going to help my 60foot times at the track because it's particularly happy to burn tyres.

I think gearbox pressures are a bit higher since the mods, but I haven't compared logs yet to confirm. I'll do that today at some point.


Last edited by hybrid on Mon Oct 30, 2017 9:33 am; edited 1 time in total

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lukep6470
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There is a couple of theories I can think of as to no 4th.

Converter isn't seated all the way on (You really don't want it to be this one)
Converter requires different input shaft. Do you have a single piece or the two piece still?


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hybrid
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3rd and 4th both use the same inner direct shaft, so no it's not that.
3rd is now working fine after it finally went in - it started getting better and better every time it engaged.

That's why I'm kinda swinging towards over tightened bolts. But will wait to see what Dan @ Silverfox says before I do anything.


Last edited by hybrid on Mon Oct 30, 2017 1:39 pm; edited 1 time in total

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hybrid
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By the way, the torque setting for those is 100 in/lbs, so 8.3 foot pounds.
Very easy to overtighten!


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hybrid
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Forgot to update this.
I adjusted the TV cable, pulled the pan and re-torqued the bolts. I think they were too tight, but whether it caused issues or not I don't know.
I managed to get it to shift into 4th on the motorway, so that is a good sign.

I'm going to tweak the cable a bit more just in case, but I think it's OK.
The 3 and 4 shifts are so much nicer without lockup.


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hybrid
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Booked in for dyno time next Friday.
Hopefully we'll be able to really work on the switched meth tables to tweak a bit more out of it.

And hopefully the gearbox doesn't slip, or I will be giving up (and talking to Cage about his spare AOD).


Last edited by hybrid on Thu Nov 16, 2017 10:20 am; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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hybrid wrote
Booked in for dyno time next Friday.
Hopefully we'll be able to really work on the switched meth tables to tweak a bit more out of it.

And hopefully the gearbox doesn't slip, or I will be giving up (and talking to Cage about his spare AOD).


On that note I need to talk to you about setting up the TV cable on Astro's car correctly as well, its on the list on the wall of remaining things to do.


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hybrid
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Put a gauge in the TV port. It's the middle of 3 ports on the right hand side of the box (1/8 NPT thread). It needs to be able to read 30-35 PSI, or 0-5 PSI.
You can do it one of two ways.

With the box in neutral at idle, you can set it so that you see 0-5 PSI. I usually try to get it to register some pressure there (2-3 PSI) so you know the TV cable is putting tension on the linkage.
As soon as you move the throttle, the pressure should increase.

The other way to do it is to use the little spacer that comes with the kit, and slide it onto the cable in front of the linkage. With that spacer in place, it should read 30-35 PSI.
I have always used the 0-5 PSI method and set it to a few PSI.


Last edited by hybrid on Thu Nov 16, 2017 2:30 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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hybrid wrote
Put a gauge in the TV port. It's the middle of 3 ports on the right hand side of the box (1/8 NPT thread). It needs to be able to read 30-35 PSI, or 0-5 PSI.
You can do it one of two ways.

With the box in neutral at idle, you can set it so that you see 0-5 PSI. I usually try to get it to register some pressure there (2-3 PSI) so you know the TV cable is putting tension on the linkage.
As soon as you move the throttle, the pressure should increase.

The other way to do it is to use the little spacer that comes with the kit, and slide it onto the cable in front of the linkage. With that spacer in place, it should read 30-35 PSI.
I have always used the 0-5 PSI method and set it to a few PSI.


Thanks mate I dont have the kit, Astro got this as a conversion that came out of a running 68, so I'll need to do the gauge thing 0-5, you just use a cheap oil pressure gauge?


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hybrid
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Yeah - if you're using that method, you obviously don't want a 100+ PSI gauge as it probably won't be accurate enough.
I think I managed to find a 0-35 or 0-50 or something along those lines.

Dad subsequently busted it by leaving it connected while it produced 100PSI.

If you can only find a higher reading gauge, I should be able to dig up my spacer thingy and send it up to you so you can do the 35PSI method. You can just keep it, as I've never used it.
Is it the aftermarket Lokar cable that it came with?
By the way - if the box isn't in the car yet, I would seriously consider putting a non-locking converter in it. It's so much nicer changing into 3rd and 4th. You will know what I mean first time you drive it if it's got a lockup converter in it.
There's also some good youtube vids if you can't picture what I mean with the spacer.


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Shaunp
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hybrid wrote
Yeah - if you're using that method, you obviously don't want a 100+ PSI gauge as it probably won't be accurate enough.
I think I managed to find a 0-35 or 0-50 or something along those lines.

Dad subsequently busted it by leaving it connected while it produced 100PSI.

If you can only find a higher reading gauge, I should be able to dig up my spacer thingy and send it up to you so you can do the 35PSI method. You can just keep it, as I've never used it.
Is it the aftermarket Lokar cable that it came with?
By the way - if the box isn't in the car yet, I would seriously consider putting a non-locking converter in it. It's so much nicer changing into 3rd and 4th. You will know what I mean first time you drive it if it's got a lockup converter in it.
There's also some good youtube vids if you can't picture what I mean with the spacer.


Nah its in the car Ive driven it on off trailers etc, Its supposed to have shift kit etc, it did have sticker on it from some Performance trans place in the US, and yes I think its a Lokar cable.


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hybrid
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Ok - it may be constant pressure valve body where the cable adjustment doesn't matter too much, but I would still set up the cable to be safe otherwise the box can burn up in no time.


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rkmiller73
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Can't wait to hear about the dyno.
I have never had one done, are they expensive?


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Husky65
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They can get quite expensive over here. Well worth it, but yeah, not something you want to do every few months.


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