Hey Ralph, maybe a length of steel rod entered from the right hand side of diff housing, through to the end of the axle and tap it out , using the rod as a very long drift? That's how i managed to get my stubborn axle seals out.
(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Think we will need to buy a new RH door, striped it today it's pretty toasty, needs a skin and quite some rust repairs to the frame, It also has some dents on the inner top edge which will be hard to fix without loosing the grain. LH is ready for a skim up and prime tomorrow.
So if any one has a good 2nd hand one speak up, or I'll go get a repop next week. Think Neil from QLD Mustang spares is back from the US next week , so I'll see if he has any, no doubt he will be calling to see if his F100 cab is done, "it's not"
Shaun , still need a bonnet as well , so do you have an address for QLD Mustang spares have Wed free so I could swing by on the way down , want to come down and have the Paint Conversation ,
Not sure if Neil is back from the US yet mate. He is at Clontarf not far off the gate way. Pretty sure he will call me to see how his truck is going as soon as he gets back. Hold off till we know he is back, pretty sure it's sometime next week, I'll line it up and you grab the bitts on the way past, only a short detour. Still plenty to do, haven't done the rh floor yet. Once that's done though we will need the door and bonnet.
Need some of the old bolts as well so we can bolt up the front guards and doors to get them to fit.
If you have some colours in mind we could go down to Colour fast and go through the colour books, get some to spray out.
Hey Shaun just wonder what the next steps would be to finish off that weld so it is indistinguishable under paint. Do you just use a bit of filler over it before primer and paint or is there more to it.
RH door replaced with a repop, needed a lot of flexing to get it right, on the back edge. Was in at the top and out the bottom at the back, but the front was ok. It's still pretty close to the 1/4 pinch weld inside. In the before and after pics I have not actually moved the striker plate it is still where it was with the factory door, which was actually a new replacement at some time as well in the past, I've just twisted the door. Unfortunately the grain on the repop door is not correct.
Last edited by Shaunp on Thu Nov 14, 2013 7:06 am; edited 1 time in total
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