I run a 210 amp, with 8 settings.
On 1 mm I run on 4 for plugs and 3 for stitching.
Grab some scrap and practice the stitch technique. That way you can flip it over and check the results and scrap it if crap.
Welder has six settings. For plugs I run 4, maybe 5, and stitching would be 2. So for plugs you run half setting on a 210 machine and I run about 3/4's on a 190 machine which seems fairly close in my head, of course wire thickness etc comes into it but it means I can't be far of.
With stitching you can see were the firewall joins the toeboard i only welded that on the inside of the car, the build up in the engine bay is just from weld penetration. If I pulse the welder a bit more it might not penetrate quite so much so i might be able to juice it up to three. I don't think I am far off, just a bit more practice and a few more tips along the way and it will come together, and there is always the grinder to help smooth things out.
Edit: just remembered that for the plug welds that higher setting is when welding the thin sheet metal to a thicker piece of steel like a rail of torque box, when I joined the cowl together I probably only used 2 or 3 as a setting.
In breaking news, after another few busy days i have the floor in and fitted, along with the seat riser and underpans. Now I just need to weld it all in.
Before I could get to fitting the floor I had a couple more repairs to finish. Had to weld up a couple of small holes in the left hand rocker right at the back where the old spot welds had made the floor thin and another reapir section in the right hand side at the back.
Then I cut patch for the RH wheel well.
I now had the patch sections for both wheel wells so after a quick coat of paint I welded them in. The left hand one went in pretty nice but the right hand on I had cut a bit short on the straight side. Lucky for me there is another piece that comes in from the outer wheel well I have yet to weld in that will cover my cock up so I don't think I will worry about trying to fix it.
sorry about the blurry photo
In this one you can see the staight vertical edge is well off where it should be. Might just sweep it under the carpet though me thinks.
After this I did a test fit of the floor and marked and drilled all the holes. I also scuffed up the section I wouldn't have access to once fitted ready for paint and buzzed all the burs off the holes I'd drilled.
Then a coat of paint and it was good to go.
You can see the highly sophisticated paint baking machine in this one
While I was waiting for the paint to dry I made a quick repair on one of the bonnet nuts that had come out of the apron. I did a quick fit of the hinge to make sure the nut is in the correct spot and then welded it in place. Only have a photo of it tacked in as the final weld on it looks shit and I am too embarressed to put the photo up. Might try and clean it up a bit at some stage but again it is in a spot that you will never really see.
Thanks for the nut Kerry
Once the paint was dry on the floor i slipped it back into the car with the help of an assistant and it all looked pretty good.
A couple of sections needed some light massaging.
This was the same both sides
Nothing the old bricky bolster can't fix.
Then I went around and put a few tech screws in it just to pull it down and hold it in place. I then spent the best part of another day fitting the seat riser and the under pans. There was a bit of dicking around with these as I fitted them all up, then marked them all, then took them out to drill the required holes, then had to clean up alll the holes, put on some weld through primer and refit. I think the mucking around will be worth it though as now i can bolt it all together in the car as one assembly and weld it all in place.
So there are a few tech screws currently pulling the seat riser and underpans together but i think I might get a few 6mm bolts and put a few holes right through so I can really clamp it toghter tight like Jas recommended.
3 and a half days work condensed into a 1 minute post.
Now before I weld it in I am just wondering about the best way to do the welds. Is there a best spot to start welding it or do I just start somewhere and slowly work my way around to avoid warping? Also I see a number of guys say to have a damp cloth and quench each weld as you go but have also read a couple of statements saying not to do this? Opinions or suggestion please.
When welding, start from the center & work out. It does not matter if starting from front or rear, but seems to me I always start from the front, probably because it usually fits the worst & I want to get it right first.
Do not need to quench any welds.
The floor to the rear torque box, I usually run a bead (lap weld) along that whole edge as that is usually a section that is prone to having the original welds broken in that spot ( & it also helps seal that area).
Decided to take a couple of days off work and have an extra long weekend to finally get the floor in Caroline finished.
I had the floor all fitted and basically ready to weld in but it was a bit fiddly just finishing off the fitment, especially getting the front of the tunnel pulled up nice and tight with the cross member and the existing steel in the hump of the firewall. The tech screws worked well in the cross member but they just strip in thin sheet metal so don't have much force to pull those sections flat/together, and there is no way to get a clamp on there. I ended up cutting some small squares of thicker steel and drilling into these at most of the plug welds to pull the two sections nice and tight around the curve and other then a few hammer marks were my exuberance with the steel persuader got the better of me I got it near enough for a weekend warrior.
Then it was down to welding and as Mike described in his post it is a bit of a slow process. Basically i had two drills setup, one with a spot weld cutter bit in it to take the paint off the steel in each of the plug welds and then another for putting in tech screws wherever I thought it was necessary to bring the steel closer together (and the persuader for when required). I Worked slowly from the center out starting at the front and doing three or for spot welds at a time before allowing a bit of time for things to cool down. After finishing all the welds from the top of the car which was most of the first day, I then flipped the car on the rotisserie and completed the final welds on the underside of the car.
I then spent another day grinding all the plug welds. Not much needs to be said about this as it is a shite job. Then I went over the welds and anywhere the paint had scorched with a wire wheel before a good clean with wax and grease remover and then a coat of primer to protect it all.
Surprisingly everything went fairly well, especially considering a lot of the work was done on Friday the 13th. There are a few parts were i had minor cock ups, like where the floor welds to the front rails it didn't pull up as nice as I would like on the outer side of each, and I left a few hammer marks around the flat section that welds to the rear torque boxes. But all in all happy days.
All welded in from the top, flipping the car to get underneath
As you can see from these two photos thankfully my welding has improved over the journey.
Underside all welded in.
These are the rails where i didn't get it pulled down properly. I later added a bit more weld at the side to make sure it is all strong.
Ground down and wire wheeled, ready for paint
So now I just need to weld on the handbrake cable runners and fit the clips that hold the rear seat in place. I think I might also fit some anchor points for rear seat belts and I wasn't sure whether i need to fit the thicker steel at the back for hanging the dual exhaust system. This car already had a dual system and doesn't seem to have any reinforcing so not sure if it is actually required or not?
I also managed to get wheel well patches a step closer to being completed and cleaned up the toe board to firewall repair a little more. With repairs in thin sheet metal like this i am having a few problems with cleaning up the welds. I am finding that in an effort to get the welds back to a nice clean finish i am getting the steel around them too thin. I assume i am just trying to get the welds back too far and need to leave them alone at an earlier state but just not sure how much you can hide with filler and primer. Does anyone have any tips that can help me out, maybe I am a shit grinder or maybe I am using the wrong discs. Even some photos of what the final welds after grinding look like would be helpful.
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