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Q&A > General Tech Advice > Nicks 68 Fastback restomod - wiring advice > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Nick68
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I am in the process of laying out the wiring for my car Γ’β‚¬β€œ and I am a little unsure of the design. I put together a mud map of the design and I am hoping somebody can provide some advice.

As you can see I am putting the battery in the boot and proposing to use an automatic isolator and a manual isolator.




I have a lot of questions about the above design Γ’β‚¬β€œ I am hoping there may be an expert available to help.

Are there any fundamental flaws in the design?

In the above design there are a lot of connections between the battery and the starter motor, is that a problem for voltage drop?

Is it best to use a firewall bulkhead fitting OR should I use a grommet at the firewall? To me it seems a better and safer design to use a fitting Γ’β‚¬β€œ but then again I presume it could be another connection for problems / voltage drops.

By my count there are approximately 18 crimp / soldered connections required in the above diagram. I would prefer to buy a reasonably priced tool (for say $100) and do them myself. However do they need to be crimped and soldered. Can I buy a cheap tool to do the job myself Γ’β‚¬β€œ or will this be false economy? Can somebody recommend the correct tool / crimp system? Or is the only practical way to cut the wire to length and get them professionally terminated?

What size cable do I use for the main run (i.e. battery to firewall bulkhead, bulk head to starter, Negative cables). I am confused I see cables rated at 2 AWG or 0/2 or 000 or 50mm2. Can somebody set me straight or point me to a web site that shows the conversion? Or just tell me what to use and where to get it?

Also what size main fuse do I need ? Is this what people call a fusable link?


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hybrid
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If you're going to power your starter through a fuse, it will want to be something like 200A.
I wouldn't be concerned about voltage drop through a connector if you have good connections. You'll have more voltage drop over the long run of cable.


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boofhead
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I agree. When I have placed batteries in the boot I use very heavy wire to avoid the voltage drop issue. Most cars use far to thin of a main feed wire. I then solder (with a propane bottle torch) the connectors.

Also, use a relay to drive the pump - the ECU can trigger the relay so the load (possibly 20 amps) does not go through the ECU.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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hybrid
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He's got a relay in the pic.. I thought that too at first, but noticed that's the relay, not the pump in the pic.


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boofhead
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Yes - I did not read it correctly. I though it was the pump. Silly of me not to look so carefully.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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nassi
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I'm sure you are aware that either isolator will remove power from the ECU memory and clock in the schematic you have drawn?


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hybrid
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ECU shouldn't care about a loss of battery power, but yeah the clock and stereo will without battery backup.


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xpconnor
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hybrid wrote
ECU shouldn't care about a loss of battery power, but yeah the clock and stereo will without battery backup.


What sort of ECU is it? Some of them "learn " and adjust fuel mixture etc as you drive. If it is reset every time you drive it might be a bit shitty for fuel economy.


"The Mustang is full of Awesome"

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Shaunp
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I use welding cable when I put batteries in the boot, it multi strand has very little loss. I solder them with flame.


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hybrid
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Most after market ones should store the tune in non volatile memory, so should not be bothered by power loss.

Auto tune can be dangerous because something simple like a misfiring plug can send bad signals to an O2 sensor and cause the tune to go completely awol.


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Nick68
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The ECU is a ford racing part specifically for the engine.

The ECU has 2 power feeds. 1 to be used for the ignition, the other to keep volatile memory alive. Ford call this second connection HAAT (hot at all times). The tune calibration is not volatile and can't be lost when you remove either power sources. However if you remove the HAAT power source you clear long term fuel trend tables, trouble codes, logged data (presumably).


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Nick68
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nassi wrote
I'm sure you are aware that either isolator will remove power from the ECU memory and clock in the schematic you have drawn?


Yeah I am aware of that. Because the car will be occasional use - if i know i am unlikely to drive for a few weeks i will probably isolate the battery - rather than let it go flat. Else wise I would leave it un-isolated.


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nassi
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Nick68 wrote
nassi wrote
I'm sure you are aware that either isolator will remove power from the ECU memory and clock in the schematic you have drawn?


Yeah I am aware of that. Because the car will be occasional use - if i know i am unlikely to drive for a few weeks i will probably isolate the battery - rather than let it go flat. Else wise I would leave it un-isolated.


In that case I guess you have considered a backup pack to keep the volatiles alive or is it possible to download the trends and fault codes brfoes isolation? (this is for my own benefit Embarrassed )


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donoauto
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I just use 2B&S battery cable (32.17mm2) - never a problem, my friends 632c.i. chevy is wired with this. I wouldn't bother with a main fuse in the starter circuit. Just run the cable safely - starter current will far exceed 200 amps at cranking. As for main power distribution connections, crimp & solder for the most reliable connection. Low current circuits like radio, instruments, wipers etc etc (anything under roughly 7 amps) will be fine with crimping only providing you have a decent crimping tool - as you mentioned, about a $100 for a good trade quality crimper.
I earth the battery near its home in the boot & then run a short earth cable from chassis to bellhousing up front - lessens voltage drop issues with short cables.


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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Nick68
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donoauto wrote
I just use 2B&S battery cable (32.17mm2) - never a problem, my friends 632c.i. chevy is wired with this. I wouldn't bother with a main fuse in the starter circuit. Just run the cable safely - starter current will far exceed 200 amps at cranking. As for main power distribution connections, crimp & solder for the most reliable connection. Low current circuits like radio, instruments, wipers etc etc (anything under roughly 7 amps) will be fine with crimping only providing you have a decent crimping tool - as you mentioned, about a $100 for a good trade quality crimper.
I earth the battery near its home in the boot & then run a short earth cable from chassis to bellhousing up front - lessens voltage drop issues with short cables.


Thanks donoauto


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