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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Tim's 1968 J Code Hardtop > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Shaunp
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Tim why would you want to do stuff twice mate.


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tim_morrison82
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Im gonna have to to get out of this house. Plan is to get out as soon as we can finish the painting, so its gonna happen now anyway.

And i have been told quite bluntly i have no money for the rebuild, for now. once we are relocated, hopefully i can start again.

Its been a war for sure with this one. A little less pressure from the mortgage might ease things a bit around here...


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Shaunp
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Yeah but I wouldn't put the engine together, just box it up, bolt panels on the car and chuck all the bitts in side till you get to where you are going.

I wouldn't count on things easeing up either, been there done that. I now have more than twice the mortgage I had when I was married and now have more money then ever, go figure, it seems to go a lot futher when you are in control of all the loot, and it doesn't get wasted on hoildays, shoes, cloths etc.


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jas24zzk
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I know where theres a genuine 68 block J code. Runner too....


Jason Pigdon
Pigdon Automotive Services
Historic Smash Specialists
3/1 Burgess Road, Bayswater Nth, Vic.
(03) 9761-4801

PS: Forgive me for I was jilted by peterp

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tim_morrison82
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Back again guys,

I'm looking for the engine mount bolts that connect between the block mount and the chassis mount (the long ones).

has anyone got some one ones i can use for the nats display? or ones that i can use to size up at coventrys?

Cheers,

Tim


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tim_morrison82
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I bought some engine mount bolts from rare spares last weekend and dropped my block in ready for Nationals.



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tim_morrison82
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Welcome to any new people who joined up through seeing my car on the oval at the nationals! Tim


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tim_morrison82
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I have found some more bits to add to my collection of parts, but have also sent some straight for restoration.

Picked up an unmolested C8ZF-D carby and sent it to a concourse restorer in the US. i have a stockpile of carby parts at home now. the remanufactured carbys you see online have most of the original parts removed and replaced with generic parts. if you are looking for original carbys, you need to look hard to find them completely original.

I have found a date correct fuel pump which is now being restored in the US. i have been on the look out for one of these for a few years, and only recently stumbled across one that was correct part and date, however advertised for a 69-70 Boss... i don't think they would have too many parts on them dated Nov 67... i contacted the restorer a year ago and he said he has never restored one in this date range and he thought they may not have existed so early, so finding one must have been quite rare!

looking forward to seeing these 2 pieces, along with some other bits i tracked down such as the final pulley i needed for my AC pulley set (fixed idler), a early repro distributer cap (US made) plus rotor, a set of NOS fuzzy's for the rear quarter window, a AC controller with the flange to bolt still attached (needs resto...), and a NOS rear seat cover in parchment with comfortweave inserts. i am going to keep hold of the NOS seat cover and purchase custom TMI seat covers using comfortweave for my car, and see how close they are to the NOS set.

i will be trying to book someone in to straighten my front end in the next few months. i know the front has had a new ford radiator support put on after the damage was done back in the day, so will that cause problems during repair?should they remove it and put it back on after? i really would like to find someone who is trustworthy to do this job for me, as i don't want to find my car all cut up and poorly repaired when i get it back.

i spoke to Frank at Franks Garage and he didn't want anything to do with it, although i should have got him over to look at it when it was at Nats...

I am on the look out for a set of Bolts to suit the AC brackets and pulleys on a 67/early 68 cast iron setup. i would prefer original bolts if possible. has anyone removed their AC setup and kept the bolts? Let me know.

Cheers


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tim_morrison82
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My fuel pump is dated 10th November 67,
which puts it:
32 days before my actual build date (1 day early),
2 days after my block casting date, and
3 days before the date my engine was completed.

so technically, it could have been produced, transported, arrived and installed within the 3 days, but really i think this would be a little too close a date to have been used on this particular engine, depending on the distance the manufacturer was from the San Jose plant.

so my question is is this just luck or.... am i CRAZY even thinking about calculating this?

:rotfl: :rotfl: :rotfl:


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ozbilt
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tim_morrison82 wrote

Picked up an unmolested C8ZF-D carby and sent it to a concourse restorer in the US.

I have found a date correct fuel pump which is now being restored in the US.


Why did you send it to the US? Not only paying freight, but also the A$ has tanked you will be paying more. Also there is little comeback when it is wrong when you get it back. Sean does them locally with them coming back absolutely correct & you have the ability of knowing who is handling the warranty.


tim_morrison82 wrote

I am on the look out for a set of Bolts to suit the AC brackets and pulleys on a 67/early 68 cast iron setup. i would prefer original bolts if possible. has anyone removed their AC setup and kept the bolts?


AMK does them ...... Like


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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tim_morrison82
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the biggest reason is because sellers dont post outside the us... so I decided to get them posted locally.

I will talk to Sean about some other bits I need done. there is plenty more to go.

is there anything he doesnt do?


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soc123_au
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tim_morrison82 wrote
am i CRAZY even thinking about calculating this?



Yes Tim, yes you are.


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Shaunp
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soc123_au wrote
tim_morrison82 wrote
am i CRAZY even thinking about calculating this?



Yes Tim, yes you are.


Too much thinking not enough building. Poke


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tim_morrison82
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I need a dimension between the front rails at the radiator support. has anyone got a straight front end so I can get a good measurement?

I want to work out if I will need to remove the radiator support to straighten the front end. wife was talking about getting this job done this morning, so I better get it done before she changes her mind.

I will be looking into migs and oxy soon too. what is the min size recommended for mig? I will be getting a gas mig regardless of size. any tips?

for oxy, does it matter what gauges you get or will they all do the same job? what size tips are recommended?


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ozbilt
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Buy the rad support that has the tie rail attached. The rad support governs the rail width so having that before you start will be all the panelbeater needs.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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