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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Astro's GG-0351 coupe build. > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Astro's GG-0351 coupe build. Reply to topic

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Cruzn65
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its an awesome feeling when you get the car enjoy it! welcome to the forum.

oh and if it is a real mexican paint job I hope there are no mexican body repairs!


early Mustang enthusiast\collector of all bits Mustang

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donoauto
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Location: Rippin' a skid

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I'm located in Yamba & you'll also find a few forum members here from Coffs (can't remember their forum names of the top of my head). Love that paint scheme


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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Astro
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Expecting worse case scenario but got it for a good price so there's dollars left over to bring it back.

The exhaust system is cactus from the manifolds, brakes need bleeding and I'd like to put a power steering pump on it - good tune up and we'll be pretty close to going for a blue slip.

Any Coffs Harbour members know of a good exhaust shop in town?

Cheers J


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boofhead
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Well from the photos it looks nicer than I was imagining. Great start for a project.

White with the blue stripes always looks good to me.

Have fun.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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scott66stang
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welcome John
Agree the white and blue is a nice colour combo, and that blue looks a nice shade.


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

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Astro
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Well its raining here so perfect time to get into the shed and roll up the sleeves - started off by bleeding the brakes on all 4 corners, there was no pedal and no fluid in the ressie, nice full pedal now.

The park brake is missing the equaliser between front and rear wire lines, will order the kit for it. Steering wheel shot and new heater box - thanks
ebay.






Have organised a tilt tray to take it to a zorst shop for a 2.25" twin system with equaliser pipe - once this is done I can take it for a "drive".....




Headlights, parklights, rear & reverse lights all working but no indicator or brake, dash or oil, fuel or temp gauge - check the fuse box
.



I have a "new" old one or should I go with current style box?

Measured up to make a sheet to slot in between rear seat and boot, Bunnings I guess....




Can someone tell me what the white block with the wires going back to the coil and beyond is and should it be right there?



Dodgy wiring... it's been put underneath on the other side.



Adjust fan belt alignment..


Bringing her home...


Getting used to LHD...


Once these few things are sorted, we'll put her up on the hoist and check on the couple of spots in the floorpan that need cutting and welding before rego.

Cheers J


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chopmgw
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Wow !
That fuse box is a nightmare.
Good luck with the tidy up.


I smell oranges !

Michael

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Astro
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Looks like the old foil trick doesn't it!


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boofhead
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The white box is likely an ignition resistor. Unusual to have it as the stock wiring uses a (pink) wire that is the resistance wire for the points. Someone by passed this wire or rewired a part of the car I would guess. I see the coil looks standard factory though it is not located in the correct location so someone stuffed around with that part of the circuit would be my guess.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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ozbilt
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Location: Now at the Duggo Ranch

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Astroboy65 wrote

Measured up to make a sheet to slot in between rear seat and boot, Bunnings I guess....




Before looking at the rear seat sheet brace, fix the rear shock mounts in the floor. That cracking around the holes indicates movement. That needs welding. You will find the LH shock has cracked the hole in the underside, so remove both rear shocks & weld up the cracks, probably weld a large washer (same size hole as the shock needs) to reinforce that area.

I doubt if Bunnings has that size sheet metal. If it was my car, I would make it in 1.5mm ally sheet & urethane (Sikaflex 252, & primer) it into place, also held with rivets while the urethane goes off.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Astro
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Thanks for the good advice - we had planned to get it on the hoist and cut/replace rust spots, will do the shocks at the same time - I noticed that it has "air ride" shocks in the rear?
First job this week is to get the new exhaust fitted so at least I can move it around without annoying the neighbourhood Wink2

Cheers
John


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67fastysm
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Joined: Jan 18, 2013
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Location: bendigo vic

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welcome astro i am new to the site as well even though i have been build'n my for awhile now . look forward to seeing the finished article , just make sure you dont rush things .
cheers goodluck
67fasty


Age is a high price for maturity

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ozbilt
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Astroboy65 wrote
Thanks for the good advice - we had planned to get it on the hoist and cut/replace rust spots, will do the shocks at the same time - I noticed that it has "air ride" shocks in the rear?
First job this week is to get the new exhaust fitted so at least I can move it around without annoying the neighbourhood Wink2

Cheers
John


Good, get the exhaust to miss those air shocks & then replace them with KYB shocks (I always say Koni or Bilstein, but KYB are the next best thing). Those air shocks are why your shock mounts & transition panel is such a mess. They put the weight of the rear suspension into a spot that was not designed for it. Shocks are there to control the springs, not to hold the car up.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Pinto-Pete
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ozbilt wrote
Astroboy65 wrote

Measured up to make a sheet to slot in between rear seat and boot, Bunnings I guess....




Before looking at the rear seat sheet brace, fix the rear shock mounts in the floor. That cracking around the holes indicates movement. That needs welding. You will find the LH shock has cracked the hole in the underside, so remove both rear shocks & weld up the cracks, probably weld a large washer (same size hole as the shock needs) to reinforce that area.

I doubt if Bunnings has that size sheet metal. If it was my car, I would make it in 1.5mm ally sheet & urethane (Sikaflex 252, & primer) it into place, also held with rivets while the urethane goes off.

alloy instead of steel kerry, what is the reason for this ?


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ozbilt
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Pinto-Pete wrote
ozbilt wrote
Astroboy65 wrote

Measured up to make a sheet to slot in between rear seat and boot, Bunnings I guess....




Before looking at the rear seat sheet brace, fix the rear shock mounts in the floor. That cracking around the holes indicates movement. That needs welding. You will find the LH shock has cracked the hole in the underside, so remove both rear shocks & weld up the cracks, probably weld a large washer (same size hole as the shock needs) to reinforce that area.

I doubt if Bunnings has that size sheet metal. If it was my car, I would make it in 1.5mm ally sheet & urethane (Sikaflex 252, & primer) it into place, also held with rivets while the urethane goes off.

alloy instead of steel kerry, what is the reason for this ?


Lighter, stiffer & easier to form if necessary. Do not have to paint it either .... Poke


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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