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Q&A > General Tech Advice > Understanding engines > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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boofhead
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From and Engineering perspective the Straight Monte Carlo bar is far better than the curved. Having said that the Curved has minimal interference with the engines top end. For example, distributor and air filter.


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boofhead
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Hawko wrote
Thats good.
So getting back on topic of understanding engines. Can someone explain about camshaft descriptions. For example my cam is 224-230 556-513 10C (I think it is a C or 0).


Looking at the numbers would expect them to be/mean

224 intake duration @ 50 thou
230 exhaust duration @ 50 thou
556 thou valve lift intake
513 thou valve lift exhaust

No idea what 10C would mean. If C was a 6 then 106 could be the centreline of the cam. 106 is tight so it would have a rather lump idle (which I would love).

It is best to find the Cam card which will (should) have more detail as the above is very basic. Having said that it is a reasonably large cam you have there. What is the part number? Any other info?


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Hawko
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Thats the only info I have on the cam. It may be a 8 as it is hand written.


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boofhead
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You might be right either way it is most likely the centreline as that would be the next most important figure. The lift on the intake is the only item that makes it standout a little. It must be a roller as it has to have a fairly aggressive ramp. No issue just interesting.

I could not find it with the usual searches so I would think/guess it might be a custom roller. In any case, it is very likely the figures are what I have suggested. Your next step, if interested, is to measure the cam yourself or take it into a Cam Grinder and have them measure the cam. Is your engine built / running?


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Shaunp
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S[_ wrote
SPECT"]
ozbilt wrote

With 2 torque boxes, "export" brace (with the Shelby reinforcement on the firewall) & Monte Carlo bar, it would handle 4 to 5 hundred horse easily.

Forget the subframe connectors, that is drag racing shit & does not stop twist.



Curved or Straight Monte Carlo bar ?

I cant find it now.. but I read a thread where an engineer was testing the change to torsional rigidity of each additional mod..

After torque boxes, export brace was the single biggest reduction in chassis twist.. followed by firewalled rear seat (coupe obviously)

How do you rate the TCP brace and Monte Carlo bars Kerry ? Is the adjustability an issue ?

I don't see how those flash braces with the hiem joints and adjustments can work as well as a straight bit of pipe and an export brace, To my reckoning they work & move on the joints and allow twist. I think they are a lot of money for probably less gain I think people buy them cause they look trick.


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Nuts
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Shaunp wrote
I think they are a lot of money for probably less gain I think people buy them cause they look trick.


Yeah, So! Thumbs Up


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gotohellgadafi
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S[_ wrote
SPECT"]
ozbilt wrote

With 2 torque boxes, "export" brace (with the Shelby reinforcement on the firewall) & Monte Carlo bar, it would handle 4 to 5 hundred horse easily.

Forget the subframe connectors, that is drag racing shit & does not stop twist.



Curved or Straight Monte Carlo bar ?

I cant find it now.. but I read a thread where an engineer was testing the change to torsional rigidity of each additional mod..

After torque boxes, export brace was the single biggest reduction in chassis twist.. followed by firewalled rear seat (coupe obviously)

How do you rate the TCP brace and Monte Carlo bars Kerry ? Is the adjustability an issue ?


I had the two individual braces initially. ..they do absolutely nothing to stop the twisting..each one twisted on itself ..they looked like pretzels.
I changed them to the single piece brace and curved Monte due to clearing the MSD. It was too late by then as the towers had shown little cracks and the Monte didn't fit due to towers caving a little; had to have the mechanic fit it. It wasn't until I took it to Steve's for some cosmetic work that his trained eye noticed the twist in the chassis and he asked if I had the second torque box installed.
Might be good time to mention you also need a strong gearbox, tailshaft and diff.


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Shaunp
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The Monte bar often is tight, you normally just have to jack the car up an let hang a bit. This why the adjustable ones are wrong, you should not have to adjust them, if you do the car is wrong.


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Pinto-Pete
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Shaun is right about "hanging" the car it's done this way so that once on it's wheels the brace is under pressure and the monte carlo bar complete's the triangulation stiffening the front end noticably these items have to be solidly mounted both ends and straight to do their jobs correctly the other stuff is just fluff.....


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gbx78
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Hawko wrote
Thats the only info I have on the cam. It may be a 8 as it is hand written.


so the cams have something stamped on them? and if not can you measure to work out what it has? not so much brand but more its specs?

EDIT: i just found out that the cam that came with the supercharger gear is a Trickflow Stage 1 cam.. its stamped on the end of it . THey dont make this particular model anymore. I dont know what cam i have in my car .. im very tempted to take a look and see what timing chain is in there at the same time. Is this a hard process and i guess ill need new gaskets etc.. I have to take my sump off anyway so figured might as well take the front off and just look a little .. just a peak Very Happy

How do you tell if you have a double row timing chain? THe timing chain that came with the s/c gear might be double row. It has Morse Made in USA stamped on it. maybe ill post a pic .. sorry if this is hijacking .. thought id ask while on the topic of camshafts.

EDIT: just read all HO motors had double row timing chains...

here are the specs:

Summit Racing Part Number:TFS-51402000

Cam Style:Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:2,000-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:225
Duration at 050 inch Lift:221 int./225 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:283
Advertised Exhaust Duration:291
Advertised Duration:283 int./291 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.499 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.510 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.499 int./0.510 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):112
Computer-Controlled Compatible:Yes
Grind Number:HR-224/339-2S-12
Valve Springs Required:Yes
Camshaft Manufacturers Description:Street; good idle, strong midrange power. Aftermarket intake, heads, and headers recommended. Calibrated mass airflow meter required. Compression: 9:1 minimum.
Quantity:Sold individually.
Notes:Includes long and short cam gear dowels.

now a stock 5.0 HO roller cam spec is as follows (apparently varies from 86-93 but essentially the same so they say)

VALVE LIFT DURATION LOBE
CAM INT./EX. AT 0.050 IN SEPARATION
Stock 5.0 0.444/0.444 210/210 115


Last edited by gbx78 on Fri Jan 11, 2013 7:32 am; edited 1 time in total

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Shaunp
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Does it have 2 rows or teeth on the sprockets?


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gbx78
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Shaunp wrote
Does it have 2 rows or teeth on the sprockets?



Ahhhhh i seeeee.. just on your question i googled the sprocket pictures and i can see the differences .. its just teeth on the ones pulled from the s/c engine not double row .. interesting, maybe it wasnt a HO motor if i read that all HO motors had double row.. ok doesnt matter was just curious


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Shaunp
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gbx78 wrote
Shaunp wrote
Does it have 2 rows or teeth on the sprockets?



Ahhhhh i seeeee.. just on your question i googled the sprocket pictures and i can see the differences .. its just teeth on the ones pulled from the s/c engine not double row .. interesting, maybe it wasnt a HO motor if i read that all HO motors had double row.. ok doesnt matter was just curious


Buy an Australian made Rollamaster one with mutli keyways and billet sprokets, About $130?


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Shaunp
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The one from that engine could have been a hyvelocity chain about 2o+ mm wide with one row of teeth.


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Shaunp
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www.romac.com.au/
this is the stuff you want.


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