Ok, i was just testing fitting my wilwood brakes on my spindles (thanks SUSPECT67) not really properly assembling and i noticed the inner wheel bearing is a tight fit on the spindle..as in it doesnt just drop/slide down to the bearing surface. first i thought it was too small and i started swearing thinking wtf??? then i realised with some persuasion (by hand) or perhaps some lubrication it will slide down but would be tight.. meaning the inner circle of the bearing wont spin but the outer obviously being a bearing .. will .. now i know a bearing is suppose to work like that (hence a rear axel bearing is pressed on, so same principle) but i was just wondering if that seems right and if it is normal/suppose to be tight fit. The old disc brakes i had diassembled easily with no force or persuasion so led me to believe that perhaps the bearings werent as snug on them and slipped on and off with ease.
i assumed the bearing would just fall down to the bearing surface and into place. So i just wanted to know what was the norm? is what im experience perfectly normal?
My gut feeling tells me its ok and normal.. but id rather ask than just assume its right.
I suggest you check if you have the rubber dust covers in the wilwood calipers so they are classificed as DOT approved. Your not legally allowed to run them if you do not have them set up correctly for street use.
There are three/two parts to the front wheel bearings (obviously two per-side - each side has two (outer) shells and the bearing (installed between the shells) though one shell is integrated to the baring as this part sits/slide over the spindle. In addition there are two outer seals. The shells pressed into the disk do not move while the integrated shell should not move if tensioned correctly. You are right the larger side (inside) is a firm fit over the axel though it should not be so tight that it would pop out of the disk (by pushing out the seal ) when pulling the disk off the spindle. I have seen cases of it being to tight due to paint left on the spindle or plain dirt on the surface. It should slide with a mildly firm push - not a hard push or requiring a hammer to get it on (to hard could damage the shell).
Starting to get it on can be difficult if not aligned with the spindle as the tolerances are close. I suggest you try the larger bearing before greasing it up bearing (no air in the grease (between the rollers) and no excess grease) and installing with the seal.
Bearing fits and tolerances are a function of the load, rpm and which parts are fixed and rotating. You will note the rear axle is the rotating element and housing is fixed hence inner race is interference fit ie pressed on, to axle where as at front the hub rotates and stub shaft is fixed hence outer race is slight interference fit in hub. What you describe sounds ok. As boof said should slide on by hand and not require lube as theinner race should not move on the stub.
Automotive stuff is pretty small loads so light interference fits are ok
cool thanks guys .. too blurry eyed to tackle it now .. but if i have issues ill touch base later .. im pretty sure it felt tight but like you guys said with tolerances etc.. it has to be spot on and it should slide down with some hand persuation .. i think initially i just threw them on and started to try and force them down rather than making sure they were straight .. cause when i did some jiggling it started to go down further but it does have to be spot on..
cheers for the advice/information.
'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid
I had to do a bit of brake stuff today at work except a bit bigger scale. Google Svenborg BSFI 3120 now that is a man size caliper. 3000 psi hydraulic pressure to lift the failsafe brake and will pull up almost a km of conveyor in bit over 10s.
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