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Other > Other Projects > Marcs 56 F100 project > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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donoauto
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Joined: Jul 27, 2010
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Location: Rippin' a skid

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m67gl wrote
And if I'm going to add more electrics (dash/gearbox controller/heater/ac/stereo) then I should start fresh. I intend outsourcing that to a professional.


I've been called a lot of things before......................
At least your expectations aren't too high. :rotfl:


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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mwizz
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Love the 56 F100. Great pickup


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m67gl
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Funny thing happened on my way to getting a few minor spots of rust taken care of Argh lots thats what. Counted 17 separate terminals under the dash that were not connected to anything, so out that came. Sent the C4 to be done up (new clutches, bands, gaskets, modulator etc), did the pinion seal in the diff while I was there. Change the DP for a Rochester. Fixed a leak in the PS Rack, cleaned and sound deadened the underside and it went on and on.

In the cab started by removing everything including the cardboard underlay. Welded up about 100 holes in the floor, primer, paint, thermilate and Solavis. Then the dash looked a little sad, then the doors, then the jambs. This has got to stop. New stereo, sub, amp. Box of goodies from MidFifty, New 'old' wipers and motor, defrost ducts, getting the picture ? here it is.



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mikes68
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Ahhhhh, but ya gotta,love seeing the progress though. Looks good


Fifty Years Afloat

We can't alter the direction of the wind,
But we can adjust our sails

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nassi
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Aaahh good to see another one who can't leave well enough alone. Very Happy


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m67gl
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I really need some advice on whats available for wheels for this thing. This is whats on it now, 14 x 10's front with 225/70's and 15 x 10's rear with 225/70's. 4" backspacing on both. Fronts are ok but rears wont let me lower the tray to where I want it. To make it more confusing the fronts are 5 x 4.5 stud pattern, the rear 5 x 5.5 (f100) pattern. I can go 5" backspacing on the rears but what width?

Ideally I'm thinking 15x8 F100 rims on the back same as whats there, jelly beans?, with 4 or 5" backspacing, or its new rims, or re-drill the axles to 4.5 studs so there are more options. 10's seem very wide for a 225 tyre?


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boofhead
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A 225 is an 8" rim tyre. Should be around the 285 range.


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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jbrucem1
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make all stud patterns the same..i would go 4.5 as after looking for f100 rims there's not a great deal around.i think some fat smoothies would look great.reasonably cheap maybe with whitewalls
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m67gl
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Been toiling away, interior nearly done now, pics soon. Been in the engine bay updating the solenoid and senders etc. I want to replace this 'excellent' piece of amercana with something that looks more like it should be there. Its the heater bypass from the block to the pump. Can I just block of the ends or is there a pre-bent bit of hose I can buy ? Its a 351c.

Also need to find 2 light globe holders for the dash (temp and oil) need to be 2 pole fittings, think maybe 18mm? No go at gibbos or Repco (using the Narva catalogue).


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m67gl
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jbrucem1 wrote
make all stud patterns the same..i would go 4.5 as after looking for f100 rims there's not a great deal around.i think some fat smoothies would look great.reasonably cheap maybe with whitewalls
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Aussie diffs quoted $200 to redrill axles and drums. Be the go. Smoothies look good but I real like torque thrust d's for this truck.


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ozbilt
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Location: Now at the Duggo Ranch

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For the hoses, I would install a H fitting in there. You can then have a tap closer to the heater so it will still circulate the water during times the heater is in the off position.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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m67gl
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Latest issue. Got the reconditioned gearbox in (C4) and went for a drive. BTW the Holley 650dp was swapped out for a Rochester carb. The gearbox will only shift up to 3rd at 3800revs and maybe 100km/h. Downshift seems fine. It has a new adjustable modulator in it (but have heard these only move the shift by a couple hundred revs) and the vacuum line is the same it was with the holley. 1/4 inch line from the carb to a T-piece and lines to the vac advance on the distributer and one to the C4 modulator. There is also plenty of slack in the kickdown so thats not it.

Any ideas out there?


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donoauto
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Vacuum for modulator should be manifold vac. It's ok to pull it from the carb if it is direct manifold vac. i.e. the port on the carby the hose is connected to goes under the throttle butterfly so there is vac. there all the time. Worth checking - unsure if it will have any bearing on your issue Oh Hairy One.
That's my understanding anyway.


(PRAYER) Oh thank you Wild Turkey American Honey & Cola in those small thin bottles, for giving me the strength to act like a half wit, and say stupid things at inappropriate times, semi-anonymously, on a public forum.
Amen.

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m67gl
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Thanks Dono. What worked with the Holley didnt seem to work with the Rochester. Ran a separate line from the modulator to a plug in the intake (got a nail gun fitting in there for the moment), changes into 3rd fine now. I was told the C4is an early (65 or 66) mustang C4, could be a 'green dot' ? they have a different shift pattern that i've heard.

Have to get to Yamba soon, stuff still dragging on here and I need a night out.


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Exhausted
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Location: Perth

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Changed & modified the valve body from '67 into my '66 to overcome the shift problems in my 'green dot' box


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