Through the week, I dropped out to Renner radiators and picked up the radiator- oddly enough. A new core and two stage thermo switch later and the radiator is done.
I pulled the temp sender- both of them- out of the old inlet manifold. I could not understand what was going on as it had a temp sender in the water gallery, where you would expect it and another in one of the runners. The first one is the correct one for 67 whereas I found the other to be a temp sender from a 66. I have no idea why it would be using two temperature signals, including one for inlet charge temp. In any case, I cleaned up the sender and bolted that in.
Went out to check the last remaining door glass but alas, it was pitted and not worth using. A new door glass is on itâ€™s way.
Wanting to do something with the glass, I installed the drivers dear quarter instead. The tricks to this task are as follows:
Install the regulator- nothing else! Pretty easy tip that one.
Oh, one other, make sure you have removed the end stops from the frame and grease the tracks.
To install the window, make sure the rear â€˜plateâ€™ is free bringing it forward so you can ease the window and frame in. The forward most wheel goes in first allowing you to pivot rearward and engage the runner in the other track on the plate. Install the bolt in the bottom of the plate and then move the window down to allow access to the two bolts at the top.
With the window a bit more steady now, move it down so that you can insert the two top stops. Now manipulate the regulator and insert the regulator runner in the window frame. Grab the track that bolts the car body and install this. Window frame installed.
Hopefully it looks like this:
On the other side I have a bit of a gap issue
Any suggestions on how to bring these two suckers together?
While pondering the differences on this side I glued the rubber door strip on. At least that closed a few gaps.
I picked up the brake master cylinder from the brake place. â€˜But it was already overhauledâ€™, I hear you say. Well mostly. Went to bench bleed it last weekend and found the front (drum) outlet did not have the male seat installed. The meant the tube nut bolted all the way in and the flare on the tube had nothing to seal against. Looked easily fixed if you have the part to press in.
In talking to the brake guy, he told me that for the drum circuit there is also a small reed valve behind the tube seat; disc circuit does not have one. If you do not have the valve your brake pedal will always have a spongy feel to it.
Got home, bench bled the cylinder and installed it on the car. I used the Big Mc method of brake bleeding and â€˜let it runâ€™. This worked well until I forgot about it and saw a puddle of brake fluid under the calipers. That will teach me- or not.
I then turned to the trans cooler lines. I had the old lines but they had been twisted and bent such that I could not use them and they fouled on the headers. I spent a few glorious hours bending bundy tube, bending it too far and starting again. I hate bending bundy tube. This job sucks and only serves to cause frustration. I hate bundy tube and will make the second of the two next weekend. Bundy tube is the work of the devil.
Seeing as though the attention of the last week or so has been on the motor and trans, the diff was feeling orphaned. To bring back that â€˜team feelingâ€™, I decided to bring the two together. I had previously bought the uni joints I needed. The tail shaft looked to be in good order:
It is at this point I must mention the passing of a long and trusted workmate- my XU1 100mm grinder. Her last working shot is as an extra in the above. After another hour fitted with the wire cone it was too much for her whirring heart and she croaked it but not before the job was done. For $19 it is one of the handiest tools I had. On the bright side, we won an AEG 100m grinder the other week at the raffles. As luck would have it, the shaft size is smaller than the XU1 so will have to buy new fittings. If AEG is half the grinder XU1 was it will be a champ. RIP XU1.
In cleaning up the crud off the shaft I could see the white paint mark from years before. Pretty cool revealing these finds.
Here is the shaft hanging in the enviro-booth after painting.
Uni joints went in easily. A tip I will use from now on stemmed from one of the joints having pretty old grease in it. After greasing the rollers in place (so they donâ€™t fall out on install), I cleaned the old grease out of the centre. I then screwed on the nipple (because I could) and connected it up to the grease gun. This worked well to push the old grease out and ensure new grease is ready for the duty ahead. Make sure you take the nipple off before installing the cross as you will find grease comes back through this hole.
Here is the tail shaft installed
Pretty nice shot hey?
While I was under the car I realised the petrol tank was not in. When I went and got the tank I understood why- I had not painted it. I quick trip to Supercheap and a tin of stoneguard. Cleaned the tank up and sprayed her.
I had previously installed the petrol filler and cap. Bugger, as to fit the tank and clear the spare tyre bracket thingy you need the clearance without the neck. Off came the neck and filler.
Applied black gutter sealant to the edge of the boot and slid the tank in. Reinstalled the petrol filler neck and cap. I used a small bit of rubber grease inside the joining tube and it slid over the tank neck no problem. Screwed the tank down and tightened the filler clamps up (bit of a pain but not hard). Here is the painted tank in situ.
Went to connect the handbrake cable but am missing one piece that attaches to the passenger side and keeps it tight- a long thin bracket with a hook on the end. Nuts, I will give you a call.
Have a good week.
'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'
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