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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Tim's 65 vert (Caroline) > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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scott66stang
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Nuts wrote
Tim give the rail a wack with a hammer, if it folds easy replace it otherwise just weld it. I believe the rails were galvanised and that rust looks to be from the floor out so you should be good.
Agree mine was the same rusted from the floor in, not from inside the rocker out. Cut outside the pitted section as Mike says and look inside i think you will find it is good internally, however untill you seperate the floor from the underside of the inner rocker you wont see all the damage. Have a look at my convertibuild thread for what to expect and ideas.

www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html


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xpconnor
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Hey guys thanks for all the advice, really appreciate it. I think that rail has rusted from the floor in so hopefully it is still nice and solid. See what happens when the floors come out I suppose.

Plan is to get a panel beater I can work with so I can do the dirty work (drill out spot welds, grind new welds) and he can do the welding and getting reproduction panels to fit etc. But I like to get opinions from guys on here as then at least I can have a well advised discussion with the panel beater on the best way to go about fixing things. I did have a retired guy lined up for Easter but he has been offered a partnership in a panel business so is going back to work and thinks he will be too busy to help out. So the hunt continues.

Mike, the lower cowl is shit. Fair few holes in it and leaves and sand kept falling on the floor every time I started to spray the firewall. Just could not get it all out :argh:. Good thing is I have a brand new dynacorn cowl assembly sitting in the garage, so was expecting to have to replace it.

Steve, I am using one of the 10 gallon blasters off eBay. Got it for about $110 I think. I got a decent compressor for christmas, think the output is about 250l/min, complies with the aus standard, so it is a true output, and it still struggles to keep up. It wont easily remove all the rubber sealers and the like that is why there is a gasket scraper in nearly every photo. Probably would be a lot faster if I was using better media as well. That said I think it is worth the pain on a car you plan on keeping long term.


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mikes68
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xpconnor wrote
Hey guys thanks for all the advice, really appreciate it. I think that rail has rusted from the floor in so hopefully it is still nice and solid. See what happens when the floors come out I suppose.

Plan is to get a panel beater I can work with so I can do the dirty work (drill out spot welds, grind new welds) and he can do the welding and getting reproduction panels to fit etc. But I like to get opinions from guys on here as then at least I can have a well advised discussion with the panel beater on the best way to go about fixing things. I did have a retired guy lined up for Easter but he has been offered a partnership in a panel business so is going back to work and thinks he will be too busy to help out. So the hunt continues.

Mike, the lower cowl is shit. Fair few holes in it and leaves and sand kept falling on the floor every time I started to spray the firewall. Just could not get it all out :argh:. Good thing is I have a brand new dynacorn cowl assembly sitting in the garage, so was expecting to have to replace it.

Steve, I am using one of the 10 gallon blasters off eBay. Got it for about $110 I think. I got a decent compressor for christmas, think the output is about 250l/min, complies with the aus standard, so it is a true output, and it still struggles to keep up. It wont easily remove all the rubber sealers and the like that is why there is a gasket scraper in nearly every photo. Probably would be a lot faster if I was using better media as well. That said I think it is worth the pain on a car you plan on keeping long term.


I did the upper / lower cowl combo replacement for mine however the cowl had been assembled in a warped state so I had to go and drill out all of the spot welds across the front and sides to relieve the twist before welding it back up again. As a not so inexpensive item from memory I was pretty pissed at it being so out of whack. You can take a look at my project thread to find where I did that work if you need any reference points...


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xpconnor
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Shit Mike, I just had a look back over your build and you must be stocked with where you have got your car too.

My lower cowl is not as bad as yours but still stuffed, and like you I would rather do it properly now and know it will last rather then fixing it again in another 10 years.

The replacement cowl I have is not spot welded together yet so shouldn't have the problem with it being twisted (hopefully). Plus it let's me paint the inside of it with a few coats of intergard before it goes on the car. Which makes me think, should I do it with the intergard or is POR more suitable? Surely if intergard is used in ballast tanks of ships it is fine for the inside of a cowl.


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mikes68
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xpconnor wrote
Shit Mike, I just had a look back over your build and you must be stocked with where you have got your car too.

My lower cowl is not as bad as yours but still stuffed, and like you I would rather do it properly now and know it will last rather then fixing it again in another 10 years.

The replacement cowl I have is not spot welded together yet so shouldn't have the problem with it being twisted (hopefully). Plus it let's me paint the inside of it with a few coats of intergard before it goes on the car. Which makes me think, should I do it with the intergard or is POR more suitable? Surely if intergard is used in ballast tanks of ships it is fine for the inside of a cowl.


Not a paint expert but would agree unless otherwise corrected on the use of the Intergard. Used inside and outside of ship hulls and is designed for the extremes so definately worth considering.


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xpconnor
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This is a bit late but my Christmas present finally arrived. Export brace and monte carlo bar as well as a few kits and weatherstrips. Postage for the whole lot from the US was only $59 bucks. Not bad when some of the other OS vendors were quoting over $200 on shipping just for the brace.
Hopefully the quality is OK.



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Nuts
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That's a good freight price. Who's the vendor?


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xpconnor
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Nuts wrote
That's a good freight price. Who's the vendor?


BC classic and performance. Link to their ebay store below.
stores.ebay.com/BC-Cla...4340.l2563

Did a good deal on combined postage so if you're not in a hurry for your parts I'd recommend giving them a try.


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xpconnor
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So after haveing no time to work on the car for ages I finally booked in a few days to get something done. The plan was to finish off the rest of the sandblasting but after a number of things conspired against me the sandblasting was put off and it was clear that the time had come for me to have my first go at some real bodywork.

Both front aprons on my car were pretty sad. The RH side battery tray was rusted out and the LH apron had copped a whack at some stage so was crumpled beyond repair.



Sooo with much enthusiasm, mainly bred through ignorance and delusions of adequacy, I set about replacing the aprons.


I started with the battery tray as that side of the radiator panel was still nice and straight, firstly drilling out all the spot welds with a proper spot weld drill bit


Then I just popped all the welds with a shitty old chisel and a bit of gentle persuasion. The front came away easy as shown in the photo but the section on the shock tower took a bit more work. It's probably easier if you don't miss drilling a couple of spot welds. Head Bash


One sad battery apron


With the tray out and because I am a noob I realised I had drilled too deep when drilling out the spot welds and cut well into the underlying metal. I don't know if it is necessary but I decided to fill the damaged steel with the welder and then grind it back, maybe one of the pros can let me know if this is required?

Here you can see damaged surface



And in this photo the repaired surface


After this there was a lot of cursing and swearing and a few cold sweats as I tried to get the replacement apron to fit. I will be honest and say that after about 20mins and thinking I was never ever going to get that sucker to line up properly I did have a monent where I thought I had bitten off more than I could chew. But a bit more perseverance, taking the panel in and out of its position 50 more times and a couple of cuts and i was happy with how it looked.

All lined up just needs 10-15mm trimmed off the bottom.


I marked up the edges pulled the panel out cut the bottom off and drilled 6mm holes approx 40mm apart for the new plug welds.


Then that sucker went back in one more time for a test fit, was given the OK by the old man (not that he is a good judge as he just tells me to bog over everything) and then it came back out for hopefully the last time.

I hit all the surfaces one last time with a wire wheel to clean any remaining rust and paint, then with some wax and grease remover, before a light coat of the weld through primer.





Then the panel was put back in its hole for the last time and clamped in place


A few tech screws to help keep it flush



and after a couple of quick practise welds on some scrap steel to get the welder set up it was time to stick that sucker in place.



I must have forgotten to get a photo of it just welded in, but here is one after I had ground the welds back


I did encounter a couple of problems with some of my plug welds not getting enough penetration and popping off once I gave them a whack but once I turned the welder off sissy I had much more success.

In between doing a few spot welds on the RH apron I had begun removal of the LH panel. Needless to say this was the same process as for the opposite side except this time I didn't go as gun ho with the spot weld drilling. Because this side had copped a whack, getting the rad support flat and lined up with the apron took a lot of work and it is far from perfect, but a bit of filler along the front and I think it should not be noticable behind the panels and grill.

Sad apron


Gone


New


With both aprons fitted I pushed the car out into the sunshine for a clean up before paint. The Canadian made repro panel had a bit of surface rust on it and as I was setting the blaster up to blast the seams I had welded I thought I may as well do that entire panel. I also like the finish it gives as it roughs up the surface and I think the paint adheres to it well. The Thai panel I just blasted were the welds were and then scuffed up the paint with a wire disc on an air drill.
Sorry about these photos, a bit of sand from the balsting got into the camera and the shutter wouldn't open properly.






A quick wipe with the wax and grease remover then a coat of intergard.



I will need to sand and redo parts of this panel as the paint finish is a bit rough.



So 2 and half days works and for the first time my car is moving forward in the restoration process. Now I have to decide if I am game enough to tackle the cowl replacement. GULP.

PS. If any of the guys out there see things I have done incorrectly or need to be redone let me know as the main reason for putting this up was to try and pick up on any mistakes I might be making before I go on to tackle other parts of the car.


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nassi
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I bet you feel such a sense of achievement that you will have a go at the plennum and cowl. Well done mate and I love this description "but once I turned the welder off sissy I had much more success."
cheers


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scott66stang
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Congratulations as you are no longer a Noob and are well under way as a good back yard restorer. Good job i say

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Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

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Shaunp
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I love Mustangs, you can buy all the bits . Try this on a HK Monaro or even a Falcon. You have to have rocks in your head fixing Australian cars these days.


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hybrid
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Have a crack at the cowl mate.

Much more spot welds to remove (and re-weld), but the process is pretty much the same.


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gbx78
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Like well done mate. definately a sense of achievement there .. you can rest your head on your pillow thinking "yeah i kicked ass today!"


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ponyride
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Shaunp wrote
I love Mustangs, you can buy all the bits . Try this on a HK Monaro or even a Falcon. You have to have rocks in your head fixing Australian cars these days.


Spot on there. I recently ventured back into an Aussie muscle car and soon remembered why I gave up on them a few years ago in favour of American cars.


Rick.

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