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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Brake warning light. > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Brake warning light. Reply to topic

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MustangMedic
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Kerry.
Took the switch out and connected the wire and the light stayed off, could the valve inside the distribution block be seized. If I read the manual right and having bleed the front discs last, it would be the outlet to the rears that I would open and depress the pedal to move the valve back to the centre. ?? correct.


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Medic
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67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

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ozbilt
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The pressure of bleeding one end first has moved the rod inside. The way to get it back is to loosen the bleeder on one of the calipers & press the pedal hard. That will hydraulically force the rod forward.

Hard to explain but the rod needs to be centralized as it has a depression in the middle that allows the pin on the switch to be extended. I have done two of them today, so very familiar with what has happened.

Bleeding brakes is done without pressing the pedal. Fill the master, loosen the bleeders while having plastic hose attached to each one running into bottles. Keep the master topped up while having a cup of tea (or beer) & relaxing. When the bubbles stop, tighten the bleeders & brakes are bled.

Give me a call if you need more info.


Kerry

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Ausjacko
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Careful here MMedic, I started my brake odyssey trying to chase down why that bloody light would not go out. Turned out to be the proportioning valve and 3 months of my time.
As Kerry says, more than likely will be the 'piston' in the distribution block that the plug you were referring to fits into. Too much pressure to one circuit (left, right front rear) and the thing gets stuck and activates the warning light.
I have emailed you a photo of the block, piston and switch disassembled so you can see how it works. By the looks of it when the piston moves one way or the other in it's tube, this motion pushes the switch plunger up thereby completing the circuit. The cyclinder is probably stuck hence it has the plunger stuck on.
Cheers
Ian


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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ozbilt
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Medic, just reread your last post. You bled the fronts last, then the rod/piston is in the forward position, so leave the front calipers up tight & loosen a bleeder from the rear & do as above.

Another better way, is as Ian suggests & pull the metering block out & move it manually. That is what I was doing today.

May as well rebuild the proportioning valve as well if you have it out.


Kerry

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MustangMedic
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Haven't got a proportioning valve fitted, Kerry. I was contemplating fitting that down the track, when I got the light to go out. If the valve has moved front or back will this effect the brake performance. Could this be the issue that has given me grief with the hard pedal, in the first place. I replaced both the fronts(with SSBC disc kit with master and booster) and replaced all of the components in the rear. So in effect I have had to bleed all of the brakes, not knowing or realising the brake warning bulb was blown until today.


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Medic
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ozbilt
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Yours is a 67, correct? If so then the proportioning valve is on the rear line just before the flexible line to the diff. If you do not have one, put one on (I would fit an adjustable one).


Kerry

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MustangMedic
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I have an SSBC prop valve, would the best place to fit it be just before the flexible line to the dif. I have looked and couldn't see one at all.


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Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
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ozbilt
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Stock proportioning valve is a brass cylinder about 70-80mm in length, & around 15mm in dia.

If you have the SSBC one, fitting anywhere on the main rear brake pipe will work. The rear is just the easiest spot to get to. Adjust it to half way at first & then road test. Keep backing it off until the rears lock up under hard braking, then adjust it back up a little.


Kerry

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MustangMedic
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Took the pony to ACT Brakes this morning and the story goes like this:
1st phonecall,brake switch is seized(working to release it) 2nd call says don't add spacers to lengthen booster rod. 3rd call brake pads are suspect(Mark,at Capital Classics has pads to suit and will get a set picked up) cool that helps heaps. last call for the day as pony spends 1st night away from home, brakes are much improved and will check pad to disc contact tommorrow and job is done. I havn't got the bill yet but I am a happy pony owner. Also mentions transmission leak and puddles on workshop floor. I suggested possibly a male pony(he didn't laugh) Next, the transmission!!!


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Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

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moe
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did they say what was suspect about the pads?


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MustangMedic
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Not as yet, but the question will come,the train of thought was to hard a compound I think, not letting the pads grip. I'll keep the pads to show Mark in case this is an issue in SSBC kits. I'll try to get a written report if I can. Just gotta stop that damm pony from pi77ing on the workshop floors,it does it at home too.


Cheers.
Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

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moe
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do you know where the leak is coming from? pan gasket? hoses?


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Ausjacko
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Moe, yes, they didn't stop the car, therefore they suspect there is something wrong with them ;-)
Will be good to hear what the actual problem/s were.
Cheers
Jacko


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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moe
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Ausjacko wrote
Moe, yes, they didn't stop the car, therefore they suspect there is something wrong with them ;-)

Could have been the "nut" behind the wheel Poke


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MustangMedic
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Yes, he has ridden my pony.


Cheers.
Medic
(Always work smarter not harder!!!)
67 C Code coupe
97 SN-95 Convertible

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