- -
UserInfo

Welcome Anonymous




Membership:
Latest: ttsiamis
New Today: 0
New Yesterday: 1
Overall: 900

People Online:
Members: 1
Visitors: 2
Bots: 12
Total: 15
Who Is Where:
Members:
Visitors:
01. News
02. Forums
 Bots:
01. Forums
02. Home
03. Forums
04. Forums
05. Login
06. Login
07. Forums
08. Login
09. Links
10. Login
11. Forums
12. Forums
Hidden: 1
Staff Online:

No staff members are online!
We have received
34840360
page views since
July 27, 2010

Hits New Today: 3441
Hits New Yesterday: 15454

Server Time
21 February 2018 06:41:02 AEDT (GMT +11)
Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > XF steering column?? > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

View posts since last visit ā€¢ View posts last 24 hours ā€¢ View unanswered posts
Forum Index > Pre 1973

XF steering column?? Reply to topic

Go to page Previous 1, 2, 3, 4 Next
Author Message
Shaunp
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 4139
Location: Brisbane Bayside

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


unilec5544 wrote
So for a 65 I need to cut & shut the XY drag link in the middle to get the length correct?


You need to get the overall lenght correct, the distance between the centre holes where the tie rods mount and the link in the same plain ie hieght off the ground. Also an XF box is not a mirror image to a LHD box, so you can't mount it in the same spot, it has to be back a little it also does not sweep the same arc at the end of the pitman arm. If you look at my pic you will see the box end of the link bends back to the box. The more cuts the more it costs the xrays are expensive. And if you don't weld them well they fail the xray every time. Once done the xray mob grind a flat on the centre then stamp with a number which matches a writen report that says it's ok.


View user's profile
unilec5544
Mustang Star

Offline
Joined: Dec 16, 2010
Posts: 443
Location: Perth Western Australia.

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


Thanks you Kerry, I was just trying to establish where the cut is made. Definately a job for a decent welder.


View user's profile
unilec5544
Mustang Star

Offline
Joined: Dec 16, 2010
Posts: 443
Location: Perth Western Australia.

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


Thanks Shaun, I'm sure once i have all the parts it will make a lot more sense, but will look at your pics as a reference.


View user's profile
Shaunp
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 4139
Location: Brisbane Bayside

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


View user's profile
Shaunp
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 4139
Location: Brisbane Bayside

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


By the way, an XG ute/Pvan box is the best as they have a roller bearing in the top cover rather then a bronze bush. the bush is what wears and causes the shaft to flop around and leak at the bottom seal. You can retro fit the the top cover in any case on early boxes. and many reco shops do this on and exchange box. get hold of an XA on pedal box and xA/XB booster as well. Auto pedal boxes are all the same Xa to XF, but manual ones are different, late cars have a cbale clutch. XB booster is the perfect size to fit in the bay and with the macthing pedal box it all just works.


View user's profile
ozbilt
Site Admin

Offline
Joined: Jul 27, 2010
Posts: 10379
Location: Now at the Duggo Ranch

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


Shaunp wrote
But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


Hey, thinking out loud here... Might build a jig that would hold the cut drag link by all the tapered holes & ends so it could be welded while held. Could make one up for the early (65/6) & later cars (67-70) along with a template where to drill the steering box & idler.

Hmmm


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

View user's profile
Shaunp
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 4139
Location: Brisbane Bayside

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


ozbilt wrote
Shaunp wrote
But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


Hey, thinking out loud here... Might build a jig that would hold the cut drag link by all the tapered holes & ends so it could be welded while held. Could make one up for the early (65/6) & later cars (67-70) along with a template where to drill the steering box & idler.

Hmmm

Yep that's how I did my car. I borrowed John Greens jigs, The rail jigs bolt to the LHD mounts inside and out you just drill thr new hole and add crush tubes and your done takes no time. John has a jig for all mustangs upto 72, rails and links. He wants to give it a way & retire. I was thinking of offering him some loot for all the stuff. Suit XF box and falcon links falcon pedal boxes . He has dash and fire wall jigs as well.


View user's profile
ozbilt
Site Admin

Offline
Joined: Jul 27, 2010
Posts: 10379
Location: Now at the Duggo Ranch

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


Shaunp wrote
ozbilt wrote
Shaunp wrote
But if you get it correct it will be better than any rack you can buy that's for sure. The guy that welded mine build speedway sprint cars for a quid, I reckon he could weld 2 bits of Gyprock. Basically you need to mock it up and tack it till you get it right. The welds are basically done radially around the bar. You grind the ends to a point, hold them about an 1/8 apart and work your way around the job. You need argo sheild heavy mig gas and the correct wire.


Hey, thinking out loud here... Might build a jig that would hold the cut drag link by all the tapered holes & ends so it could be welded while held. Could make one up for the early (65/6) & later cars (67-70) along with a template where to drill the steering box & idler.

Hmmm

Yep that's how I did my car. I borrowed John Greens jigs, The rail jigs bolt to the LHD mounts inside and out you just drill thr new hole and add crush tubes and your done takes no time. John has a jig for all mustangs upto 72, rails and links. He wants to give it a way & retire. I was thinking of offering him some loot for all the stuff. Suit XF box and falcon links falcon pedal boxes . He has dash and fire wall jigs as well.


That would work, no sense reinventing the wheel.


Kerry

It is easier to get older than it it is to get wiser

View user's profile
scedd
Mustang Star

Offline
Joined: Nov 02, 2010
Posts: 706
Location: sunshine coast

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


I overheard in a conversation once that early Toyota Crown drag links will work.
Does anyone know if this is fact or BS?


View user's profilePhoto Gallery
Shaunp
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 4139
Location: Brisbane Bayside

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


Particulary when you know it's correct, 25 years of passion & refinment, built in, not just slap it together stuff. John is a QLD Dot approved engineer as well, it's all good. think he has stub axle jigs as well to make falcon stubs work on pre 67 cars.The Xray bloke is just up the road from me as well.


View user's profile
Shaunp
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 29, 2010
Posts: 4139
Location: Brisbane Bayside

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


scedd wrote
I overheard in a conversation once that early Toyota Crown drag links will work.
Does anyone know if this is fact or BS?


The degree of working is the question. Nothing would work correctly without mods. I mean a falcon works out of the box if you don't mind more turns of lock one way and bump steer. Falcons and Mustangs aren't that different but they are different enough. One of the reasons people are scared of RHD swaps is that most were never done correctly. It is possible to make them drive better than new, these days.


View user's profile
scott66stang
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 27, 2010
Posts: 4689
Location: Baldivis WA

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


Thought i might just add this for reference

XY Falcon inner and outer colapsable tubes, no centre steering shaft in pic.


Draglink (XR-XY are all the same)




Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

View user's profile
unilec5544
Mustang Star

Offline
Joined: Dec 16, 2010
Posts: 443
Location: Perth Western Australia.

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


Hey Scott, thanks for the reference pics always good to see. i wonder if anyone has just heated the mustang drag link and bent it in the opposite direction?

Cheers Neil.


View user's profile
scott66stang
Mustang King

Offline
Joined: Jul 27, 2010
Posts: 4689
Location: Baldivis WA

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


unilec5544 wrote
Hey Scott, thanks for the reference pics always good to see. i wonder if anyone has just heated the mustang drag link and bent it in the opposite direction?

Cheers Neil.
Its something that i have wondered myself, the only problem i can see is the tierod tapered holes would be on the wrong side, that could be overcome by drilling out and fitting a tapered sleeve. There has got to be a reason why this hasnt previously been done?
Castlemain rod shop make the tapered sleeves for tierod to stub axle fitment for some of their XP to XY stubs and discs.
It will still need to be flux tested for cracks and stamped.


Converting Rust to Something Drivable

66 Fastback Fairstang Project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
67 convertibuild project www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html
Thought Collecting Couch www.mustangtech.com.au...=1739.html
Caddy Wacked www.mustangtech.com.au...art=0.html

View user's profile
unilec5544
Mustang Star

Offline
Joined: Dec 16, 2010
Posts: 443
Location: Perth Western Australia.

0 šŸ‘ / 0 šŸ‘Ž


it's just something I was considering, but I think the taper would till be on the same side, you are just fliping it over and reversing the drag link angle. i will have to get an xy one and play with it.


View user's profile
All times are Australia/Sydney
Go to page Previous 1, 2, 3, 4 Next


Jump to:

TopPostersToday
   hybrid 
 Posts: 
 3 

   Edz66Vert 
 Posts: 
 1 

   69candy 
 Posts: 
 1 

   nassi 
 Posts: 
 1 

LatestForumPosts
Last 10 Forum Messages

Any interest in a 3000 stall AOD non lock-up converter?
Last post by hybrid in Mustang Parts for Sale on Feb 20, 2018 17:56:36

hybrids 1966 Coupe Project
Last post by hybrid in Mustang Projects on Feb 20, 2018 07:03:39

Camshaft
Last post by trav68 in Pre 1973 on Feb 19, 2018 22:36:53

Finally getting to Mrsozbilt's Mach 1
Last post by nassi in Pre 1973 on Feb 19, 2018 19:59:19

67 FG Resto Mod
Last post by Roger in Mustang Projects on Feb 18, 2018 18:04:00

1970 wiring
Last post by 123abc in Pre 1973 on Feb 17, 2018 08:34:20

1982 RHD Mustang dashboard
Last post by albanygt40 in 1979 - 2014 on Feb 17, 2018 01:04:10

WTD 1979-1984 Fox body mustang
Last post by nassi in Wanted - Mustangs on Feb 16, 2018 23:03:47

Current issue with posting
Last post by Pinto-Pete in Website Help on Feb 13, 2018 22:25:36

replacing ac
Last post by 123abc in Pre 1973 on Feb 13, 2018 18:52:54