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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Husky's 65 Restomod > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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nassi
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Shaunp wrote
unilec5544 wrote
Husky, you must have a workshop full of used parts, so when is the big garage sale. Snigger


Yeah that's nothing I've got 3 engines and have used any of them


They don't wear out that way.


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Husky65
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umm yeah, I do have a few hardly used parts


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Husky65
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So spent a couple hours today relocating my IAT sensor from the stock position(5th lower intake runner) to the discharge pipe. I also moved my main meth nozzle to the discharge tube also(it was in the 90dg elbow before the TB), but before the IAT sensor.
I was recommended to do this by the guy that tuned the car last, but I pretty much forgot about it until yesterday, when I was measuring the intake temps coming out of the bypass valve, which was 38dg. The intake temp on the haltech was showing 60dg. Now I get that the air is going to heat up more between the bypass and the lower runners, but that's a pretty big amount. Also, when boosting, the IAT sensor output doesn't reduce as much as it should with meth, most likely due to heat soak.

So by moving it to the discharge, it won't suffer as much heat soak. Now, I know it's not going to show true IAT's, as it's going to water/meth pretty much blowing straight onto it. But this is where that is a positive, and why the tuner recommended it.
1. You can tell straight away that the meth is working because you will see instant temp reduction by a big amount due to the water/meth blowing just before the IAT
2. You can use the IAT's more effectively as a fail safe, because the difference between meth and no meth is going to be huge now. Before, my IAT's were showing 60dg for eg, and after a 2nd gear pull, it would go down to 55dg. So trying to use IAT's as a fail safe for a meth failure is pretty useless.

That's where my meth nozzle is now, and the IAT sensor is on the other side of the bypass on the underside.



Last edited by Husky65 on Sat Jun 09, 2018 2:30 pm; edited 2 times in total

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hybrid
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Not sure I agree with him that having false intake readings is a good thing. How is he going to tune around having abnormally low air temp readings when meth turns on?

Is your temp sensor open or closed element? Heat soak should not really affect an open element sensor too much because it directly touches the airflow. It will certainly affect it after the engine has been stopped and you start it again, but the element itself (if it's open element) should cool down to the true temperature pretty quickly.

I'm not a fan of using intake temp for fail safe at all, although having a sensor right in the meth flow will certainly help that. It won't help tuning though.
Surely the Haltech can have another temp sensor? You could leave the temp sensor used for tuning where it should be and have another temp sensor right with the meth and compare that temp for meth fail safe.


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Husky65
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He won't be tuning it I will Poop Hit Fan

It's going to run a bit richer on boost with the colder IAT's so I'll just lean it out once I see the what the AFR's look like. Apart from that it shouldn't change anything.
I'm not going to advanced timing based on my intake temps. I am going to run a meth timing table the whole time, and will retard timing based on IAT's. Once I see what the IAT's look like on boost, I can get pretty aggressive with my timing retard once the IAT's go over a certain amount. Being a stock motor, I like this as it is something else in the bag to help me save my motor in case of a mishap.

I tried it briefly tonight, and under meth went from 40dg to 30dg instantly, and that was only 2 psi. So I think it can be useful for a fail safe, if it's tuned right like you said.

If you're advancing timing based on intake temps then no way would I do this. I dont' have any more inputs on the Haltech either. If I find I've made my life harder I'll just move it back, no dramas there.


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Husky65
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So I've decided on a C4. Now to decide whether to go a full manual valve body or something like the stage 2 shift kits trans go sells. Will allow auto shifting with manual 1-2. I won't be using a kick down though. Also, stall converters. Anyone had experience with TCE in Melbourne? I've heard good things about them. Judging by my previous dyno curve something around 3500-3800 would be the ticket I think.


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hybrid
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TCE are some of the best.


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cage
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Woohoo, a decision made Husky. Have you thought about a GV?


"The simple answer is, even if I have decided I still don't know what to do."

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Husky65
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Thought about it for the last 4 years mate ha ha. That's a later down the track thing. Just working out the whole c4 swap thing now. Need the shifter etc to look pretty and match my interior 😉


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jbb
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got a hurst shifter for a C4 in the part for sale post of mine.😏


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Husky65
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Thanks for tge offer mate, but I was looking at the Hurst Quarter Stick, which would allow me to mount it low into the tunnel and use a leather boot/my lokar chrome trim to make it look subtle.
Your b&m cooler on the other hand. That's something I may need.


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Husky65
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Today j realised I hsve another way now to know if the meth is working. With the new bypass valve, it is pointed towards the hood cowl opening/windscreen. When coming off throttle a nice bit of water/meth gets sprayed onto the windscreen by the bypass. It literally evaporates instantly, you can just see the mist shoot out really. "Sorry officer but i had to clean my windscreen"


Last edited by Husky65 on Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:03 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Husky65
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As you can see I am being a bit safe. Shifting around 5600-5800, and babying this T5. The GPS speedo is pretty leggy, might change where the antenna is.


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hybrid
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Husky65 wrote
Today j realised I hsve another way now to know if the meth is working. With the new bypass valve, it is pointed towards the hood cowl opening/windscreen. When coming off throttle a nice bit of water/meth gets sprayed onto the windscreen by the bypass. It literally evaporates instantly, you can just see the mist shoot out really. "Sorry officer but i had to clean my windscreen"


Yeah that was one of my other concerns about pre-SC nozzle.
It sounds good though!


Last edited by hybrid on Mon Jun 25, 2018 11:42 am; edited 1 time in total

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Husky65
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Since I added heads/intake/headers, I adjusted my Rev limiter to 5800, and try to shift at 5600. Just trying to keep the stock block alive and see where it takes me. Since I am keeping the rpms low, I was making about 8-9psi at my rpm limiter.

Yesterday I decided to put on the smaller pulley that came with my kit. If I'm keeping rpms low I may as well increase the boost a bit. Well, a bit turned out to be a lot ha ha. Just took it for a run, and it hit 11.5psi at 5200 rpms when I backed off. So I'll just shift at around 5.5-5.6 and should see 13ish psi. I wonder how long my block will last burnout
Why do they make it so easy to increase boost Head Bash


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