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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Project Lil Blue Coupe > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Dwayne
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Rear torque box patch is finally in. Still some more welding and clean-up needed... but its progress.


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Dwayne
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Note to future self, just get the car blasted next time as doing it all with paint stripper sucks.

My car's roof has been painted 3 times, and the car was originally springtime yellow. Only had a 15cm square repair on rear right side so relieved with what I eventually found under all the paint.


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ozbilt
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You did the right thing by paint stripping. When you blast a "fully paneled" car, the chances of buckling the outer panels is very high
.
The best way (IMO) is to paint strip the large panels and then blast the edges. Keep in mind that the car must be completely disassembled when blasting, preferably on a rotisserie.

Never blast a hood or trunk lid. Doors only the inside.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

Last edited by ozbilt on Mon Jun 11, 2018 8:27 pm; edited 1 time in total

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nassi
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just to add to what Kerry has said, once blasted be prepared to spend a lot of time and energy getting the media out of the chassis. I bet you never get it all.
I prefer stripper any day.


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Dwayne
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Does my car need the rear quarters fitted before putting it on a rotisserie?


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ozbilt
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Dwayne wrote
Does my car need the rear quarters fitted before putting it on a rotisserie?


If a totally bare shell ( no mechanical or swinging panels) it will be fine without the quarters.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Dwayne
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It's currently a bare shell with front and rear suspension.

I'm probably better off just focusing on getting the quarters back on.


Last edited by Dwayne on Wed Jun 13, 2018 11:54 am; edited 1 time in total

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Dwayne
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Over the weekend I scored a pair 275/60r15 M/T ET Streets for mocking up, so I decided to see what it looks like. I squeezed one onto a 15x7 rim (4.5" backspace) I had laying around at work today and I'm pretty damn happy with my starting point.

I only have 1/2" clearance to the stock width springs, so will probably need some more clearance even with del-a-lums. Hane narrow springs would give me an additional 3/4" clearance, but now thinking I may be better off handling wise with standard width springs and pushing the wheels out a fraction more.

As I'm fitting new quarters and fabricating trans-am outer wheelhouses (thanks Kerry), I'll be pumping the quarters out another 2" and wiring the lips. It's fairly subtle and most people won't even notice.

The front of the wheel arches and rockers would also benefit from having an inch trimmed off them in case I stick with the tall tyres.

At this very early stage, I'm planning on having a couple of sets of wheels for the car.
1. 15" styled steel centres in either 8" or 9" wide barrels, painted satin black with these tyres and Mickey Thompson stickers.
2. 17x9.5" Superlites with 275's and tyre stickes like Husky's car.



Borderline before the guards are pumped:


Last edited by Dwayne on Fri Jun 15, 2018 9:11 pm; edited 3 times in total

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ozbilt
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Exactly what I would do.


Kerry

"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"

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Dwayne
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ozbilt wrote
Exactly what I would do.


I'm reading, listening and learning from some of the best.


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Dwayne
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How much clearance do I need to the springs with del-a-lums fitted?


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Husky65
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That looks crap.....



...and no, I'm not jealous 😢


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Shaunp
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Just be mindful with styled wheels the centers are still 14" and preclude the use of big brakes, just saying.


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Dwayne
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Shaunp wrote
Just be mindful with styled wheels the centers are still 14" and preclude the use of big brakes, just saying.


I stayed with Kelsey Hayes brakes so I could still use the styled steel wheels.


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Dwayne
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Dwayne wrote
How much clearance do I need to the springs with del-a-lums fitted?


I heard back from Global West, they said I need 1/2" clearance to the leaf springs if running 275/60r15 tyres.


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