It may be overthinking it, but when I've stripped back some of this 50 year old wiring to work on it's hard and brittle, and the inside is dirty and oxidised.
And then, once you add a bunch of heavy current suckers like thermo fan, quartz headlights, air horn, klaxon, fuel pump, led headlights, etc with all their relays up front it gets messy, it's just nice to tidy this up a bit. A positive note is the old wiring, headlight switch and fusebox all have a lot less current to cope with and should be more reliable. My car is a regular street driver and I want it to be reliable; the last thing I want is another breakdown when I do a trip from Canberra to Surfers Parasite again.
Replaced the old glass fuse panel with a modern blade one and mounted it on a wingnut under the dash so it's easy to get down. Here's a pic of it hanging loose, still a lot of messy wiring from the POs to clean up.
Replaced the front apron bar with a bit of 35mm square tube that I had someone roll a 12mm curve into, lines up perfectly. Makes it really easy to lift the motor in and out and got rid of the massacred piece of metal that was in there.
Built a new shroud as thin as possible because I have limited clearance between the fan and the waterpump pulley. They were able to bend down to 20mm in my 3mm aluminium sheet and luckily this fits when I offset the fan to it's maximum. I placed the fan on the hot side of the radiator and then cut 3 airholes on the otherside to allow air to flow through at higher speed.
I covered these with some flaps of rubber and aluminium weights to seal them at low speed. To work out what would work, I made up a dummy plate with just 2 layers of 1.5mm rubber and took it for a ride on my motorbike, but it was open at 30kmh. I added the strip of aluminium in the picture to the bottom and it worked perfectly, open at 45 degrees at 60kmh. I'll double check it later by putting a camera in there when it's back on the road and post the video.
Now to finish wiring in the fan and then back to the interior to finish wiring new gauges and switches and fitting separate amber indicators to back. Had help on indicator from Husky65 and Teacherspet on the other forum so just need to make it work. I want to do this now as it's much easier working under the dash and running wires with all the interior out.
So the original hazard switch had fallen apart and was missing its inside which is why I was looking at replacing it. Mine is the early one which is prewired to a loom for about $160.
However when I tested the old one I found that there was no power going to it, so I traced the wiring up into the dash, guess what I found? You have to love PO's!
So I'm wiring in a generic hazard switch kit I've got lying around with a new switch in the old switch plate.
I sprayed my new centre gauge pod I got from a Melbourne Mustang crowd and painted it with my new interior paint. I'd already sprayed the steering column while it was out.
When I sat the new gauge panel on the dash I realised how bad the dash paint looked. So 1 hour later
I was quite surprised how easy it was to remove the dash, instrument panel and switches. I did label all the instrument panel lights so I know how they go back.
This weekend I'll respray the dash and then put it all back together. I've already done the rear inside panels and I'll paint the insides of the doors later when the car's back on the road and I have more time as it will involve a lot of masking. Once the dash and switches are back in I'll finish the wiring and start laying the resomat.
I've also removed the dodgy ammeter and replaced it with a voltmeter. This has a white face so I'm doing white gauges for the rest of them in photoshop (including the speedo in kmh) and I'll get a mate around the corner who has a signwriting/vinyl sticker business to print them. I'll post a pic when they are done.
66 Convertible 351W; AOD; 9"
Last edited by Edz66Vert on Thu Apr 19, 2018 10:35 pm; edited 3 times in total
Yes, the wiring is a total mess, but after painting I'll try and separate it all and tidy it up. I've removed nearly 20 wires that just did nothing or went nowhere.
The plan down the track is to rewire with a generic harness, but at the moment my deadline is legal engineering and rego before the rego expires at the end of the year.
You'll be happy to know I fitted new inner tie rods Jacko while the engine was out.
I was reminded of one thing on Wednesday. you get what you pay for. I had done all the engine bay touchups in super cheap export satin because I had half a dozen cans on the shelf and it looked ok, about 6/10 but is soft an marks easily. So I bought a better can of $17 satin black and painted the shock tops, the colour difference is chalk and cheese. It's cleaner and smoother looking and a tougher paint that doesn't mark as easily, makes the other paint look uneven and dull. I should have painted all my engine bay with it. Oh well, one day I'll pull the running gear again and paint the engine bay body colour when I redo the wiring, not this or next year - I want a year of just enjoying driving it! I had it on the road for 6 months before the overheating issues got to me and I pulled it down, been off the road since January last year.
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