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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Finally - the Bullitt begins! :-) > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Finally - the Bullitt begins! :-) Reply to topic

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mungus
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OK I'll try that now. Heres some shots of the basic fitting process...








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Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 9:12 am; edited 1 time in total

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mungus
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Ahhh OK. So that does "hotlink" thing does look better... Thanks Hybrid. I'm slowing being webducated. Smile

Anyway here is the end result. Should go well. Still tossing up whether or not to paint the bellhousing to match the factory colour.





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Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 10:44 pm; edited 3 times in total

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mungus
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My next post will be about the cast pot metal headlight buckets...

I've already added some "muggy weld" solder and filed to get them matching the fender lines, but I'm wondering just how much interruption to the lines one accepts along the side between the fender and bucket...
I've already drilled out the mounting holes and filed and sanded a fair bit off the edges at the panel gap to improve things, but the only way to make it flow between the panels better is a skim coat of filler on the front edge of the fenders.
Views anyone? Practically achievable or just being show car silly? Thanks in advance.

Close up profile shots to come some time today I hope.




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Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:06 pm; edited 2 times in total

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mungus
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So here are some detail photos. In the first pair you can see the difference between a bucket I have soldered and filed to match the fender, and the other not... Muggy Weld is great as its melting point is well below that of the notoriously easy to melt pot metal. You can use a laser thermometer (I did the first time) or just gauge the heat by the flux turning brown. Its not hard and IMHO its worth the 1/2 an hour each side took to do. One less gap to see! Smile




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Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:35 pm; edited 1 time in total

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mungus
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And here is the bucket to fender side levels I spoke about. The LHS is not that noticeable, but with the RHS there is a noticeable change. Although the rubber seal might space it out slightly it will still show. But is that normal for classic Mustangs? Does anyone worry about it or does anyone bog that gap and sand to level? It might require say 1/8" thick filler on the apex, feathering to nil in about 3-4" in. Views anyone?





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Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:38 pm; edited 2 times in total

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hybrid
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The bloke who did my fenders/buckets put them together as close as possible, then covered the whole lot with a skim of filler as you suggested. He then made a new "gap" between the two - I think while the filler was still wet. Or maybe he pulled them apart again before it had fully set. I can't remember exactly how he did it (shonky memory), but Steve can probably say for sure. Then he sanded the whole lot together so it was a perfect blend.


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mungus
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That's kinda what I was thinking. I've seen a YouTube video of a guy in the US doing an E type that way. The link is from the Eastwood company, so if they back him then it can' t be too bad.
He won accolades for the finish on some pick up he had at SEMA.

From memory he put some thin foam between the parts maybe 1/4" back from the edge, so as to prevent filler going too deep inbetween them, then used a made to width cutter (couple of cut off blades with some plastic in the middle?) to trim between the panels when the filler was like firm cheese.

Sanded and primed and voila! I think I'll give that a go...

Found the link for anyone interested: www.youtube.com/watch?v=gms-PS2GcOE


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Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 2:51 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Husky65
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Nice looking trans setup. I remember reading about the lower profile mods MD did to the TKO, but haven't seen a picture of one. Will be interesting to see how much clearance there is with it.


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hybrid
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Yeah I guess you could also try something like a thin guitar string to cut the filler.
No matter which way you go, if you screw it up, you just have another go... no big deal.


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mungus
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True enough. I'm OK at welding and filing etc, but don't consider myself a sculptor of filler...
Anyway time to lock up the barn and play Dad, so maybe next week.


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mungus
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Husky65 wrote
Nice looking trans setup. I remember reading about the lower profile mods MD did to the TKO, but haven't seen a picture of one. Will be interesting to see how much clearance there is with it.


I did see a web article on fitting a MDL TKO with the same "low profile" set up.
It cleared the tunnel without issue. I think it was one of those US magazines like Mustang 360 or some such.
Likewise Bruce told me that's what it would do when I placed the order, and he's always been pretty straight with me.
Hopefully I'll remember to take some photos when fitting it.


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mungus
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Well back into it, after a few winter months worth of spare time working on my Velocette and 4 vintage mini bikes I'm able to put some more time into her. The former was mostly to tidy my barn up, there were boxes of bike parts all over the shot...

I had a fresh look at the alignment / gap issues on my headlight buckets and RHS door. Pleased to say the buckets are all sorted with no bondo required. Just a look at the way the bolts pulled the buckets when tightened showed me that was where the real problem lay. A bit of fettling and voila! Pretty much spot on.




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Last edited by mungus on Sat Sep 29, 2018 11:23 am; edited 2 times in total

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mungus
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Next came the RHS door front gap. I'd already nailed the bottom gap and made some progress on the rear, but the front was bollocks. Gap was as big as 8mm in places and uneven. Actually the door's front edge lined up perfectly with the sill cover's FWD vertical body line, so the fault was with the NOS FoMoCo fender (manufactured in 1993 and still in its FoMoCo box etc). So I MIG'd on some 1/8" welding rod as usual. Came up nice I reckon.

its around 3.9mm all the way. (using a tiler spacer that's a smidge bigger than 1/8" the factory claimed was a target...). I figure being closer to 4mm is good for a doors front edge anyway. I's hate to see it bind later on with movement from whatever, and in truth I suppose it’ll be maybe .5mm less when both sides are painted...




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Last edited by mungus on Sat Sep 29, 2018 6:39 pm; edited 4 times in total

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mungus
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So now I have to deal with a problem I've been avoiding since I first hung this repop door. Web searching reveals its not unheard of. I cant be sure but I think it may have been caused by the PO's "repairer" and his replacement of my rear quarters. They were done a few years before I bought the car and are nice and sold, rust free etc. However the lower belt line doesn't line up with either door's belt line. Also the rear upper corner of my Dynacorn (from who know's where) RHS door is out by around 5 mm (It was OK on the OEM door I had - got trashed during shipping). And i noticed that the outer skin is higher than the inner frame by the locking knob hole, far more so than on the OEM LHS door, so I figure that part is just plain wrong. So the way I figure it now I have several options:

1. Thick Bondo (I don' t trust it to stay uncracked on a door), or
2. Cut the door's belt line ridge (and frame behind) and MIG in a thin pie slice, or
3. Cut the rear 1/4's belt line and push that in etc.

(similar options for the top edge misalignment too).

In my limited tin bashing experience its always easier to cut the steel and pull out to fit, filling any resultant gaps with new metal, than it is to heat it up & dolly it in. So I'm thinking of going for option 2. Any advice from those who have done this before? What a bugger than my OEM door got trashed, it fitted OK and appeared to be untouched since new.




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Last edited by mungus on Sun Oct 07, 2018 10:26 am; edited 5 times in total

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rkmiller73
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I used the same MDL setup with the quick time bell housing and hydraulic clutch. When I bought mine they did not mention anything about checking the offset of the bell housing. Mine runs ok, but I have often wondered about it, but taking it all back out to check seems like a lot of work now.
Wish they would have had the proper directions then.


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