My next post will be about the cast pot metal headlight buckets...
I've already added some "muggy weld" solder and filed to get them matching the fender lines, but I'm wondering just how much interruption to the lines one accepts along the side between the fender and bucket...
I've already drilled out the mounting holes and filed and sanded a fair bit off the edges at the panel gap to improve things, but the only way to make it flow between the panels better is a skim coat of filler on the front edge of the fenders.
Views anyone? Practically achievable or just being show car silly? Thanks in advance.
Close up profile shots to come some time today I hope.
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:06 pm; edited 2 times in total
So here are some detail photos. In the first pair you can see the difference between a bucket I have soldered and filed to match the fender, and the other not... Muggy Weld is great as its melting point is well below that of the notoriously easy to melt pot metal. You can use a laser thermometer (I did the first time) or just gauge the heat by the flux turning brown. Its not hard and IMHO its worth the 1/2 an hour each side took to do. One less gap to see!
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
And here is the bucket to fender side levels I spoke about. The LHS is not that noticeable, but with the RHS there is a noticeable change. Although the rubber seal might space it out slightly it will still show. But is that normal for classic Mustangs? Does anyone worry about it or does anyone bog that gap and sand to level? It might require say 1/8" thick filler on the apex, feathering to nil in about 3-4" in. Views anyone?
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sun Mar 18, 2018 12:38 pm; edited 2 times in total
The bloke who did my fenders/buckets put them together as close as possible, then covered the whole lot with a skim of filler as you suggested. He then made a new "gap" between the two - I think while the filler was still wet. Or maybe he pulled them apart again before it had fully set. I can't remember exactly how he did it (shonky memory), but Steve can probably say for sure. Then he sanded the whole lot together so it was a perfect blend.
That's kinda what I was thinking. I've seen a YouTube video of a guy in the US doing an E type that way. The link is from the Eastwood company, so if they back him then it can' t be too bad.
He won accolades for the finish on some pick up he had at SEMA.
From memory he put some thin foam between the parts maybe 1/4" back from the edge, so as to prevent filler going too deep inbetween them, then used a made to width cutter (couple of cut off blades with some plastic in the middle?) to trim between the panels when the filler was like firm cheese.
Sanded and primed and voila! I think I'll give that a go...
Nice looking trans setup. I remember reading about the lower profile mods MD did to the TKO, but haven't seen a picture of one. Will be interesting to see how much clearance there is with it.
I did see a web article on fitting a MDL TKO with the same "low profile" set up.
It cleared the tunnel without issue. I think it was one of those US magazines like Mustang 360 or some such.
Likewise Bruce told me that's what it would do when I placed the order, and he's always been pretty straight with me.
Hopefully I'll remember to take some photos when fitting it.
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