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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Husky's 65 Restomod > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Husky65
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Thanks boof.
With heads/intake and good headers I think it would be over 400rwhp easy. And I would like to future proof myself on the exhaust as later I may change pulleys and go for 500rwhp+, as long as it doesn't detriment my current build too much.
I am leaning towards custom made headers, and if I am going to go custom headers, I only want to do it once. So I think 1 3/4 may be the go, if not even stepping up if there is space to do so.


Last edited by Husky65 on Sat Jan 27, 2018 2:13 pm; edited 1 time in total

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trav68
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381.3 hp to be exact boof! With JBA 1 5/8ths but with the cone/ball collector chopped off and std flat face flanges.


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nassi
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Hello Trav, hope you are well and good.


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hybrid
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1 5/8" headers are already difficult to get the bolts in.
I have no idea how they have true 1 3/4" headers and fit any bolts in them.


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Husky65
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That's why I'll get the exhaust shop to do it Like


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gbx78
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Some heads have 2 exhaust bolt patterns.. standard spacing and a 3in spread spacing for large primaries. The 195 canfield heads i have for sale have this..so do my 220s but i assume most larger heads would have this? Or could be drilled and tapped if theres space to do so. Ive seen some guys do that.


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

'You can never have too many gauges' -
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Husky65
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Had some nice shiny alloy trickflow heads arrive in the mail today....sooo nice.

Anway, questions for the supercharger guys. I know I brought this up earlier, but it is still on my mind.

Do you think a setup like this would work for bringing boost in earlier. I would put my smaller pulley on, and then use the manual boost controller to bleed off boost at a preset level. Under vacuum the ball and spring design boost controller holds vacuum, so it would be like normal. And under boost, it would vent to atmosphere once it hits the adjusted boost.
The only thing that worries me is if the bypass is too big, even a small movement could bleed off too much air, then it could be a bit 'jerky' and I might lose power. But the Novi2000 moves ALOT of air, so this may not be a problem with my bypass.




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jbb
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"And under boost, it would vent to atmosphere once it hits the adjusted boost."

what engineer have you been using??
Ive been instructed by mine thats its illegal to vent to atmosphere !? ( at least in NSW ) Shrug
He wouldn't pass it that way.

Anybody able to comment further on this point to clarify it for me?

thanks
jbb


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hybrid
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That rule was meant for cars that used airflow meters because it would affect the tune if you vented air that had already been measured as going into the engine.
Having said that, yes it's true I believe. It's a f*cking stupid rule. If I disconnect my supercharger outlet pipe so it's just sucking air in and blowing it out again, is that illegal?
If so, so should my airconditioner be.

Just another stupid rule put in place by people who have NFI. There are already rules that say you should not mess with emissions gear. That is all they needed to cover the situation.

And Husky I think I said this before - I don't think it's worth bothering with that setup. If your RPM is up in a range where you can make boost, you will make boost as soon as you put your foot down because the valve will close straight away. If you're not in the RPM range to make boost, the valve will still close because there's no vacuum, and you will have boost as soon as the supercharger can make it.


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Husky65
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It's an emissions thing as Hybrid said. I have looked through the ADR's and being a pre-adr vehicle I don't think it has to comply with emissions, only the AVSR rules . In the AVSR it also states pre 1972 not having to comply with emissions.
If I can run no cat legally I don't see how fresh air being vented is a problem. I am not an engineer though so I would like to here from someone in the know.

Is your motor a later motor that has to comply with ADR's?

Hybrid, yeah I know what you are saying, but I would have more boost earlier, which should relate to earlier torque. I am making 10-11psi now at 6000rpms. The smaller pulley I have will put that around 15psi at 6000rpms. Which means it will be making more boost everywhere as opposed to the current pulley. So if I vent it to 10psi, it will hit 10psi much quicker than the current pulley.

The article that made me ponder it was this. They used a wastegate but same idea. The brought peak torque down 1000rpm.

www.superchevy.com/how...wastegate/


Last edited by Husky65 on Sat Feb 10, 2018 6:45 pm; edited 1 time in total

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jbb
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thanks guys.
its not late model.
i think engineer may be being cautious.
i did it his way to get his sign off, so was just going to do the same when i go injected soon.


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hybrid
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Husky65 wrote

Hybrid, yeah I know what you are saying, but I would have more boost earlier, which should relate to earlier torque. I am making 10-11psi now at 6000rpms. The smaller pulley I have will put that around 15psi at 6000rpms. Which means it will be making more boost everywhere as opposed to the current pulley. So if I vent it to 10psi, it will hit 10psi much quicker than the current pulley.

The article that made me ponder it was this. They used a wastegate but same idea. The brought peak torque down 1000rpm.

www.superchevy.com/how...wastegate/


It's not really making boost any faster by using the air bleed. It's making boost faster because of the smaller pulley and using the wastegate as a safety by opening it to bleed off the excess boost generated by the smaller pulley.

OK, so to put it another way - yes if your pulley is going to produce too much boost up top, yes you can bleed it off. It should balance itself pretty well I would think. It's the same concept on a wastegate bleed really and they don't oscillate.

Now the other thing is... that is going to be f'ing noisey every time you get past your 10PSI limit. They are loud enough when cruising let alone having it bleed off whenever you're on boost.


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Husky65
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I meant it's making my max of 10psi faster than using a 10psi pulley. Yeah I wonder how noisy it will be.
Once I do my heads, I think I will try it. I'll dyno it first with my current pulley and then try the smaller pulley with the boost controller.
The other thing will be it will create higher IAT's.


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hybrid
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Yes, but the meth should sort that out.
It will also be putting more load on the engine for the same level of boost. So theoretically, your boost will come on quicker, but at 10PSI you will probably be making slightly less power.


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Husky65
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Well since it's quiet in here lately I will put my thoughts to digital paper so you guys can help me spend my money.

So I now have a set of Trickflow 170's on the shelf, along with a Trickflow Box R intake manifold which is on the way. Headers are also on the way. Looking for 450-500rwhp

Now before I put any of it on, I have to do something about my transmission. I am even scared to stomp on it now due to not wanting to blow the thing up. It's a good healthy T5, with basically a new clutch/bellhousing/shifter/hydraulic TOB etc, which is why I'd prefer to remove it and sell it to recoup some costs.

Which leads me to what has been keeping me up all night. My two trains of thoughts are the TR6060 from the FG v8's, which is basically an OEM version of the t56 magnum. The other is a built c4 transmission. Both would come to around the same costs, with the c4 most likely being a bit more expensive(depending on how cheap I can find a tr6060) as I already have all the hydraulic clutch gear good to go. It would be a shame to get rid of the expensive underdash hydraulic pedal setup I have.

Pros
TR6060 - overdrive, very strong in standard form, already have hydraulic clutch gear, current driveshaft should fit, can use factory ford TOB, only need to buy clutch and bellhousing
C4 - can be built very strong, simple, perhaps easier to put the power to the ground later on

Cons
TR6060 - size(most likely need to modify tunnel),
C4 - no overdrive, need to buy everything including new driveshaft

What do you guys think?

The reason a built ford AOD/4R70w aren't on the list is that the cost of this will be a fair bit more than the above options. I don't want to spend an extra 2g for the sake of an overdrive auto, I would prefer to put that into a gear vendors later down the track if I found I really wanted overdrive.


Last edited by Husky65 on Mon Apr 23, 2018 12:12 pm; edited 5 times in total

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