I've got meth you can use if you need it.
I get my meth from a bloke in Merrylands.
Ahhh but what about for the car?
Good stuff mate. Those coolant burpers are awesome.. i made one up but leaked. Might have to borrow that one day.. wouldnt mind gettn one ..was it bought local?
'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid
Thanks Hybrid, I will hit you up if I can't get any. I got it locally of ebay George.
Well it wasn't all candy....while it seems to idle fine, once I rev it it sounds like it's missing. This is under no load.
It also goes pretty lean and doesn't really richen up.
The injector duty cycle seems stuck to zero on the logging. May have something to do with it.
In regards to the timing, as I said before, i locked it at 10 degrees on the ecu and saw 0 degrees on the balancer. I then changed the trigger angle from 50 to 40 and saw 10 degrees. Shouldn't it be the other way though? Thinking about it, if I went to 60 I should have seen 10 degrees....I'm so confused
You could try changing the rising edge/falling edge setting, but it should be OK.
I think the trigger angle is behaving normally.
Think of it this way - if your trigger angle is set higher than it should be, the engine thinks it has more time to fire than it really has.
So when you had it set to 50, your engine thinks it has 50 degrees of rotation left before TDC (when it really only had 40), so it fires at what it thinks is 10 degrees. But it really only had 40 degrees of rotation left, so it ended up firing at TDC instead of 10 degrees.
Yeah mate makes sense.
Does your trigger angle need to be set in the software in multiples of 10 degrees?(due to a 36 tooth wheel). Or you can you set it to any number. 40 degrees is not quite on 10, i think I need like 42-43 degrees.
No, you can use any number, because your pickup can be anywhere. The trigger angle is where your #1 tooth is in relation to the sensor position and TDC.
Yesterday arvo I made a couple of adjustments. I had originally put in the injector offset from the Siemens Deka data I had. However Haltech recommended using their stock setting, and then adjusting the fueling map instead. So I changed back to the Haltech settings, which were a bit different.
I also changed the cam sensor to rising edge as it was on falling.
There was also an o2 sensor setting that wasn't correct, but I'm not sure how much effect that had.
Anway, idled fine. Rev'd fine. Took it around the block for a short drive. No missing, goes rich now when you put your foot down, albeit not quick enough just yet. Didn't hit boost though.
I tell you what, the combination of the 90mm throttle body and the light spring accufab uses HOLY CRAP. I almost did a burnout reversing my car out of the garage. So bloody sensitive. The previous TB had a really strong spring. Guess I will get used to it.
Sorry officer...
"I tell you what, the combination of the 90mm throttle body and the light spring accufab uses HOLY CRAP. I almost did a burnout reversing my car out of the garage. So bloody sensitive. The previous TB had a really strong spring. Guess I will get used to it"
So.......took it out for a very quick drive. Hit boost, car is quick, only went to 4000ish, hit 4 psi not full throttle.
BUT....lucky I was very conservative on the tune.
I got back and checked the data log, and timing at 4psi was still 26dg, when I set it for 16. Thought I may have put the wrong data in for the map sensor...nope.
So silly me, if you notice the map I put up on page 37, I thought that boost started at 100kpa, so I did my maps accordingly. It's how my last program with the ford ecu was, so I didn't think twice.
But Haltechs software starts at -100kpa, so from 0kpa on I am in boost. Lucky my timing was only 26 from 0kpa to 100kpa and my afr was just under 13 at 4000rpm, and I wasn't giving it much.
Silly silly boy
Lesson to all who are noobs at tuning, start off VERY conservative, cause you may have fucked it somewhere
Phewwww
Last edited by Husky65 on Sun Jan 14, 2018 4:40 pm; edited 1 time in total