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Mustang Technical Discussion > Mustang Projects > Husky's 65 Restomod > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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ozbilt
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Husky65 wrote
ozbilt wrote
Best spot is if you could get it to the plenum chamber.


Sorry Kerry I don't quite follow


The plenum vent in front of the windscreen is the high pressure area. Pick up the air from there would be my choice. Issue for you is you are making these changes with the body done, rather than building the body around what you are trying to do.


Kerry

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Husky65
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Yup following now. The thought had actually crossed my mind a long time ago to see if I could run a pipe up to the plenum vent, put a nice hole in it and use it for cold air. I totally forgot about that though. My fresh air vents are welded shut, so putting a nice hole in the engine bay side won't matter. I will have a look at it.


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ozbilt
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NASCAR have been doing that since the 60's


Kerry

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Husky65
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Quick question for the megasquirt gurus.
What settings are you using for the ford IAC valve(foxbody style one)? Ie the hertz it operates at as well as duty cycles etc.
I haven't set up my base tune yet, however just getting all the data ready to go.

Thanks


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boofhead
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153hz fidle


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Husky65
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Thanks mate.


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Husky65
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Random question. Where would I find some hollow round bar, preferably alloy, that I can cut up and make some spacers I need. Need something with approx 10mm ID, but that has a pretty thick wall. Need to make up a spacer for the supercharger brackets(I am missing one), which will be about 10cm long.
I went to bunnings, but the hollow round bar they have is probably 1mm thick at best.

Like the spacers in this pic



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Husky65
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Oh, and Happy New Years to all!


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scedd
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Husky65 wrote
Random question. Where would I find some hollow round bar, preferably alloy, that I can cut up and make some spacers I need. Need something with approx 10mm ID, but that has a pretty thick wall. Need to make up a spacer for the supercharger brackets(I am missing one), which will be about 10cm long.
I went to bunnings, but the hollow round bar they have is probably 1mm thick at best.

Like the spacers in this pic



Try the local scrap metal dealer.
After you have seen him, have a look at your ECU for sale post. Smile


The word "swims" upside-down is still "swims".
- If you rip a hole in a net, there are actually fewer holes in it than there were before

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Dwayne
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Or use a solid rod and drill the required hole on the lathe.


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gbx78
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If you dont have the means to fab your own... Bolt place have alloy or steel spacers for exactly this. Went through same process but ended up getting the spacers i needed from SC parts place with a broken idler bracket i wanted to replace. Boltmaster i think it was had them.


'You can never test fire too many times.' - Hybrid

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Last edited by gbx78 on Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:33 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Husky65
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Yeah no dramas fellas. I was hoping I could just get a a meter length or something and cut it to size, but seems like I can't find it anywhere.
I'll have a look at a bolt shop George, there is one I go to regularly.
I don't have a lathe but if I can't find anything around, I'll go this option through someone. Thanks fellas


Last edited by Husky65 on Mon Jan 01, 2018 6:45 pm; edited 1 time in total

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hybrid
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I find heaps of short cuts of all sorts of metals on ebay.


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Husky65
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Random questions number 42.....raising my motor has may have exposed a bit more of my slip yoke.
Now, I never noticed how it sat before as I didn't install it, which is a bit annoying on my behalf, but anyway, I had a look underneath an thought about .25-.5" of the yoke looked cleaner than the rest. So i thought it may have been pulled out.
Due to this, I unbolted the driveshaft from the diff, pushed the yoke in all the way, then took it back out to the correct length for my driveshaft. It pulled out 1 3/4". I have heard up to 1-1.25" is the norm.

Now, I can't pull the driveshaft out without dropping my undercar bracing and exhaust to check the actual length of the yoke. Don't want to do that unless I have to.

It is a Spicer yoke with the part number c2-3-2529 stamped on it. I can't seem to find that anywhere on the net, but from from the c2-3 part of the number it seems to be a c4 slip yoke. The spicer c4 yokes seem to be around 4.25" in barrel length.(although mine has a raised lip near the u-joint, which I don't seem to see on the current spicer ones, so not sure if that is included in their length).

So if I could pull mine out about 1.75", does that mean I have about 2.5" of contact with rear shaft?

Is this enough? I never had a problem with vibration before, and I can't imagine the engine lift has pulled the yoke out much farther than it was before.


Last edited by Husky65 on Wed Jan 03, 2018 7:19 pm; edited 1 time in total

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geoff289
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An original C4 slip yoke is longer than a T5 one. If you have the latter maybe the former would give you peace of mind. That said, when I was looking in to this there were divergent views out there about whether putting the longer one in a T5 would cause any lubrication problems. As many people said it was fine as said it was courting trouble.

If you changed the height of the engine mounts and left the trans mount as it was you'll have moved the angles of the output shaft and the pinion out of the equal but opposite situation they should be in (assuming they were so before). Whether this would be enough to generate a vibration I don't know.


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