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Other > Other Projects > Jacko's Project > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Nuts
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Location: Can someone send me some of that "Clean" coal for my furnace. My wood has frozen..

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This is the ACT Jacko. The wonderful people that inspect these cars will ask for an engineering report on anything that has been modified from standard regardless of the cars history. Remove the Recaro name and they might overlook them only because the missed em and found something else to pick on. In 2002 I needed to get an engineering report on a XL falcon that had XY seats fitted. Do you have an original bench seat?


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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Pinto-Pete
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That'd be a good look 350 munro, bench seat 3 on the tree and you could put 165/75x14 crossplies on as well........


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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Nuts
Mustang King

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Location: Can someone send me some of that "Clean" coal for my furnace. My wood has frozen..

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Pinto-Pete wrote
That'd be a good look 350 munro, bench seat 3 on the tree and you could put 165/75x14 crossplies on as well........


No better way to restore a Holdon!


My Motto - Don't get Caught! If you do, Blame Someone Else!

MUSTANG - Fantastic Not Plastic

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Ausjacko
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nope, no bench seat but I could fashion one out two bessa blocks and some fence paling we have out the back. Would I need high tensile bolts for the blocks?


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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12 June 2016
Spent today dismantling the front end. But first I had to make the threaded rod internal spring compressor; read welding! I feel I am getting better at it as it does not look that bad; not good but not bad.

With these made (Mustang and Holdon), I set about dismantling the brake pistons (was drum brake front end), steering arms, and then the spring from one side of the second front end. Not many people know that the springs have part numbers on the top of the spring. This will tell you what car the spring was intended for; either aircon, V8, pwr steer etc. Raf told me about the part number on the top of each spring that is application specific. In this instance the springs and front end were off a 6 cylinder without aircon.


All parts came away fairly well but have to do some reading as to how I get the lower control arm free from the cross member.

13 June 2016
Taking control or your arms
This is a crap job done my way as I could not find any hints on how to do it other wise. I call this method the ‘Butchered Bush’ removal technique.

The lower control arms swing off two pivots on either side of the cross member. A metal sleeved bush goes through the control arm and over the pivot shafts that are fixed to the cross member. The arm then is able to swing up and down on the pivots. The bushes are held in place by a bolt and large washer that screws in through the outer end of the bush into the pivot shaft. My bushes were rusted solid and I suspect ‘pressed’ in place by a press. There was no way on gods earth that these bushes could rotate in place even with the bolt removed.




I was hoping that if I pushed one side completely over the pivot shaft it would give enough ‘inside’ space on the other side for it to clear the arm. If this arm was free, I would then be a simple matter to slide the other one back and off- if only…

To achieve my plan I would have to remove the rubber ring from the bush as this was preventing the arm from sliding all the way down the pivot arm. Two hours of picking at the thing with a screwdriver had the rubber out from both sides.

This worked- nearly. Even with the arm now slid all the way down one side it was still fouling on the bush sleeve on the other side. Remove sleeve time.

Enter cold chisel and hammer. I used the cold chisel to raise the outer edge of the sleeve, ensuring it was not rusted solid. As I did this, I could see the whole sleeve was starting to move from the arm- faint hope emerged. More hitting but then it stopped. Closer inspection revealed a crack on the inside of the sleeve.

‘Butcher Jacko’ arrived and cold chiselled a slot out of the sleeve being careful not to hit or damage the pivot arm. With the slot ‘carved’ on the inside up to the inner surface of the control arm, it gave just enough clearance from the pivot shaft on that side to get that side off and then the whole arm. I used a hammer to hit the sleeve out from the inside of the arm.

The other side only took an hour to do as one sleeve moved nicely with the cold chisel lever method. On this side I used the big adjustable pliers as a spacer between the cross member and bush inner edge. I then used the BFH and some pipe to hit the outside of the control arm. This effectively moved the control arm down the bush, providing the clearance needed to clear the pivot shaft. Much nicer way.

Have posted for some help on the ‘correct’ way to get the arms off. Anyone who tells you to simply ‘remove the bush and the arm will come free’ is full of shit and has never followed their own advice.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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22 June 2016
The weather is revolting at present, preventing any outside activity. Time to remove those ball joints from the lower control arms.

On a HT, these are pressed into the arm; just like every other bush it appears. A quick read of the interweb and I was nearly ready. Read one final post that went something like ‘removing these ball joints separates the men from the boys’ and I was champing at the bit!

Cleaned a bit more of the crud off from around the ball joints and had a good look to make sure they were actually pressed in. In the case of these ones, they were additionally ‘rusted’ in place for an even firmer fit.




Website advice suggested using a pipe and BFH to hit the ball joints out. Grabbed a piece of gal water pipe I had accumulated from somewhere and ‘Thor’s hammer’ and set about hitting this thing. Rotating the pipe as I hit to ensure an even impact. More hitting and some really hard smacks and it looked like it was separating. A few more really good whacks and it came out. Took a few photos of my handy work.









The other side was the same with a few more hard whacks.; this side was rusted in even better. With both ball joints out I left the arms soaking in kero to remove the rest of the cemented on crud.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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23 June 2016
Continued with dismantling the front suspension but this time moving up in the world to the upper control arms.

Each arm has the two bushes, one each that are pushed through the control arm and hold the pivot shaft in place, and a ball joint that is riveted in place.

Step one: remove bushes. This is where your old pieces of 2.25inch exhaust pipe come in handy. It fit nicely over the pivot arm bushes to seat on the control arm, allowing you to smack the buggery out of the inner sleeve of the bush, in the hope it will come free and drop into the said pipe.

H had to give me a hand or two here to hold the pipe vertically against the arm while I used the BFH and a drift to wallop the inner skirt of the bush. After a few really good hits it started to come free. Moved around the inner skirt (of the bush not H’s) giving it a hit so the bush would work out evenly. With the inner sleeve against the arm, I lay the arm flat and used the drift to hit the outer lip of the bush to remove it the rest of the way.

You have to get one side completely out for the shaft to drop out that side. With one side and the shaft out, the other side was relatively easy to remove using the long drift to hit it out; with the pivot shaft out you could access the inside to hit it all the way out.

Used the same approach on both arms and now have all the bushes free. The shafts are cleaning in molasses for a couple of weeks.

Step 2: remove ball joints.
This was again a grinding and cutting job. Tried grinding the top of the four rivets off initially and then realised I should have just cut them in the first place.

Interestingly, the ball joint has a top plate between the rivets and ball joint proper. This provided a small opening for the cold chisel and BFH to get to work.

Bit more cutting and a lot more whacking and the ball joint begrudgingly came out, leaving the bottom of the four rivets still in the arm. I cut these as close as I could to the arm and then used a small drift to punch these out. They were a bit of a bugger to get out but eventually succumbed to the BFH and drift.

Repeated these steps on arm number two without further issue. Now have both upper and lower control arms fully dismantled; good job.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Shaunp
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The best way to get the bottom joint out of a holden is to just heat the arm with oxy and they come out in 1 hit, as for the bushes I used to set fire to them then the sleeve come out easy. To put the bushes in make U shaped spacer to hold the arm from bending and just pull them in on the nut, it helps to tap the arm out to them as well. I use a little Rocol on them to help them slide in. LH toranas were bastards for choping the top bushes out and you have to do them in the car as you can get the top arm off in a Torana with out droping the cross member. On a V8 LH you pretty much have to drop the X member,


Last edited by Shaunp on Mon Oct 24, 2016 9:07 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Pinto-Pete
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Shhh Shaun, what are we going to read if jacko know's the easy way.
Sunday night's will never be the same....... Poke


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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Ausjacko
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Com'on Pete, sometimes nutting this tuff out is hard enough AND as you know I need all the tips I can get.

Shaun, I like the 'set fire to it' approach but this did not work that well last time I tried it on the power steering ram of the fastback; oil fires are a bit tricky to put out, especially when it is on yourself. There is not much room to 'drop and roll' when you are under the car.

I have a c shaped piece of pipe waiting for the install.
Cheers
Jacko


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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12 July 2016
Bit slow on the car front. Finished the loom wrapping and sorting and have left this hanging waiting for install; came up well. I used the felt tape to protect any junction or parting of the loom as they did in the factory. With the new yellow wire, a few new plugs, new reverse loom, and a general clean-up the looms are now done (unless I have forgotten something).

14 July 2016
Brother Steve rang and I feared he was going to tell me the car is painted and I need to collect it. Seeing as though our concrete is still waiting from April AND we have sought other quotes (new guy should start on Monday- he says) I was going to be stuffed; three cars and two spaces.

Thankfully, Steve was asking for more parts; glovebox lid, ashtray and steering column. Told him I had already done these so there was no need to pain them. All good.

He did update on the car saying it had been polyestered, rubbed back and now is in high fill waiting for more rubbing. The dash painting should start in the next day or so.

Grabbed a few items out of the molasses like the sill wiring loom clips, door card clips and a couple of sway bar brackets. That stuff is incredible. Have posted a thread on the forum to show the results.


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

Last edited by Ausjacko on Mon Oct 24, 2016 10:41 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Ausjacko
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19 July 2016
Have spent the last few days welding the bits of square tube sufficient to make an engine test stand. You know the ones, where you can start and tune your motor on. They sell them in the US but can’t find them here. $130 worth of box tube, JBB’s cut off wheel and my mig and I am away. Welding is getting better but far from acceptable for public viewing.

A reply on another site has ID’ed the seats as Recaro LX models. Love the interweb.

When ‘helping’ JBB with his car in Sydney, I spied a Sebring orange HT, 308 monaro parked outside an adjacent workshop. Checked with the owner who said it was OK to take a few photos and so I did. Under the front on either side of the outrigger were two covers. Asked the owner who said these were pretty rare stone guards.



Rang Raf and he suggested they were common; interesting. Then sought the definitive view from Geoff who confirmed all cars came with them and just as many owners removed them, hence the myth they were rare but they are now.

Jumped on Gumtree and found a guy selling a set in QLD. Rang but they were sold. Did some ebaying and a saved search found a set in Sydney.



'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

Last edited by Ausjacko on Mon Oct 24, 2016 10:42 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Ausjacko
Mustang King

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30 July 2016
The stone guards arrived through the week. Have been cleaning and soaking years of grime off them with kero. Sunday was a day with the cone of death, wire brush in order to give them a lather of primer.

While spraying kero, I cleaned the seat adjusters and used the kitchen sink-remember secret men’s business here not to be communicated to H- to clean the plastic bits.

Spent a while on the interweb trying to find the seat cable; properly referred to as a Bowden cable. The Recaro reps in Vic replied to my email only to say the cable is not made any more and did not offer an alternative. Could make one easily enough but for the tricky ‘S’ shaped end that attaches to the lever. Found one in a small engine repair shop but the end was too thin and would not seat properly. WWW here I come…

Well, after a few too many hours interwebbing, I now know that the same Recaro seats were used in 1977-81 E21 BMW’s and Ford Mk3 Capri and Lasers AND that I can’t find a reason not to buy the FiTech injection system. Anyways, found a cable in the UK and with postage was GBP14. After mistakenly sending the guy Euros and making a quip linking this error to the recent Brexit decision, I sent him the cash; no sense of humour those Brits. Applying the current exchange rate, this equates to around AUD37,509.78; expensive Bowden cable (H does not query me if I describe it like that).


'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

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Ausjacko
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OK, fast forward a few months and Brother Steve's band of Grand Masters have been at work applying colour!

I hate photobucket





'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'

Last edited by Ausjacko on Thu Oct 27, 2016 9:20 pm; edited 1 time in total

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Pinto-Pete
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Nice,... Like one of my favorite colours..


I'm Batman...

Toyo Spares.
97203177.
5/89-91 Canterbury rd Kilsyth vic.
Specialist Toyota Dismantlers.

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