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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > 65 power steering cylinder torque? > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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65 power steering cylinder torque? Reply to topic

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mjb0015
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Hi everyone, its been a while since I have been on the forum I have taken a hiatus from the stang for a while, but now getting back into it.
Just put a replacement power steering cylinder in the stang while getting the original rebuilt and cant find the torque specs for tightening it to the bracket mount, how tight do I go?
Also what is the best way to run power steering fluid through the system? should I simply fill the power steering pump and run the engine? will this circulate the fluid throughout the system?
As you can see below on the 2nd photo, the rubber rings are very compressed, but the nut is still not tight.



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hybrid
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There should be a crush tube in there.
Tighten it until it's up against the crush tube.
Mine crushed the rubber up much more than expected, but when I had it looser than that, it tore up the rubbers quick smart.

You should be able to just fill up the pump, then turn the wheel from lock to lock a few times. You can do it with the car on stands if you like.


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mjb0015
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I just had the rubber rings there, what does a crush tube look like?


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Nuts
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See it here. It's more a spacer than a crush tube.
www.drakeautomotivegro...px?wid=141


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hybrid
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I think my original kit came without the tube/spacer and I had to buy another kit to fix mine.

Without it, your rubbers will be destroyed within 100km.


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hybrid
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If someone has a spare, you could just get them to measure it and you could make one.


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Pinto-Pete
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Bit too strong for your own good me thinks gee off..


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mjb0015
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so what is the purpose of this tube?
And should I take the rubber rings out and put the tube in the centre?
Next question how tight do I go?


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mjb0015
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well found the metal tube, had no idea that it was useful!!!
Glad I asked you fellas!!! thanks heaps for the advise.


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mert
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The tube just provides a stop for the washers.

Torque spec is 18-24 lb-ft, never seen the use of double nylocs like that... unless you do It by "feel" which is to use a small open wrench on the end of the rod to keep it from turning while you use another on the first nut. You can also remove the rubber boot, place a rubber hose over the rod and hold it on the backside of the bracket with vise grips to keep it from turning and use a standard deep socket on a torque wrench to get it to spec.

The second is usually a tiny stamped nut to 5-8 lb-ft.

torque spec for the bracket to frame is 35-48 lb-ft for the two lower and 28-35 lb-ft for the side.

For filling I'll usually put in fluid and rotate the pulley by hand get as much in as possible (full on dipstick) before running on the engine to minimise wear. Do it a few times and wait as the system will take a bit and "settle" after filling.


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Last edited by mert on Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:10 pm; edited 1 time in total

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mjb0015
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Thanks MertI will do that cheers


Mark


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