I want to keep my engine looking 68' stock but need to get my dizzy looking as new and ensure the curve is where is should be. So my plan is to find the local gun dizzy restorer and make sure the springs and weights etc are what my engine needs. Then add a Petronix 2 or 3. So I have a couple of questions;
First; Whose the best dizzy restorer in VIC? I keep hearing about some bloke called Jerry at Ignition Torque in Bayswater. Any good? Anyone better? I may post it so if there's someone much better in QLD, NSW or whatever, then fine by me. I am a fussy bugger, so this needs to be perfect OEM looking, e.g. vapour blasted, replated cap clips etc. If not I may as well strip and clean it myself and hand it over for reassembly etc.
2nd; I want to run OEM style leads & cap etc. So are the Drake Scott concourse leads OK?
Are they still copper cored these days? I see Petronix says NO to copper / solid leads.
If not theirs, who else does concourse leads?
3rd; Petronix 2 or 3? Any views? (yes I've read their website).
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Mon Aug 24, 2015 11:45 am; edited 2 times in total
Based on the quality of most Drake products I would think they might fit but be far off OEM. Motorcraft/Marti is probably closer. (I sometimes wonder if Drake even bothers to test fit many of their parts as a lot of them are pretty much hopeless)
Pertronix, I run a old Ignitor on the S convertible, been at least 10 year of weekend/driver use and still runs fine. Many people use them and the odd issue comes up, but all seem to have pretty good reviews.
8F01X -EXP500 Repli-bute
Last edited by mert on Sun Aug 23, 2015 8:58 am; edited 4 times in total
Thanks Mert, I'll have a look at the Motocraft / Marti works stuff.
I tend to agree, whilst I appreciate the large range of obsolete stuff Scott Drake have made available to us, some of their stuff I've seen isn't what I'd call wonderful...
Anyone else out there with Dizzy restorers they can recommend?
I have rebuilt my own before (Lucas etc), and have access to vapour blasting etc.
But I have no stocks of springs and weights, nor do I have the Autocraft experience I'd like to see applied to this job.
UPDATE: Thanks Mert, cant believe I overlooked the Marti Works stuff. What a gold mine! I think I'll be buying some stuff from them. Guess I never looked at what else they had when I ordered the report on my 68'...
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Sun Aug 23, 2015 1:13 pm; edited 2 times in total
Yes I am aware of 2 recommended shops in Melbourne. One answers his phone, the other not.
However the one who doesn't is supposed to be the best.
I've checked out the US guy. Certainly seems to know his stuff and have a good rep. However he's away for the next few months. I think I'll probably end up using one of the VIC guys, once I nut out whose who.
I was hoping some VIC owners might have a recommendation.
I can do most of it myself, its just that I don't have any of the required Autolite 12127 parts for a rebuild nor do I have a rig to check the curve on. So its just easier to farm the whole thing out, once I know who to use...
There don't seem to be a huge number of Vic guys on this forum, or at least not that post a lot. Pinto Pete might be able to recommend someone but the other guy that might be worth a call is Jason. He use to be on here sporadically but haven't seem him post in a while. He has his own shop and seemed to work on a lot of mustangs so might be able to recommend someone. No harm in calling him. Profile details below.
Trickiest part to find for these to restore will be the shaft bushing in my experience. Weights you wont be changing and the existing springs may infact already be correct (as you probably want the advance coming in a a bit earlier anyway if they have lost a bit of tension).
I would just get one of the suppliers in the States to post out the shaft bushing and a couple springs perhaps and do it yourself if you have the bits to aesthetically clean it up.
There is really nothing to them and if you check out page 14 of my 347 build thread I have posted up a photo of me modifying the cam slot (weld and file to size if one of the two existing slots does not suit) and a list of dimensions to use as a guide for dialing in mechanical advance. Make an adjustment, run it up in 500 rpm increments and plot the curve then repeat as necessary.
+ 3 for Ignitor III recommendation. My warm 347 runs a stock Autolite distribtuor (Petronix reproduction) flawlessly with out the expense of a fancy bling MSD etc.
Think there is already a recommendation floating around of who can do the vacuum advance canisters independently.
Yup I was told by one of the 2 recommended VIC shops that they have to send the big twin vacuum can out to be done. $90 I believe? Think he said it was a bloke in QLD. As long as it comes back replated / looking new and works, I'll be happy. Although I have seen a NOS one for sale on fleabay...
My dizzy looks like its been played with, stripped screws and bodged gear pin etc. So no guarantees the weights or springs are ticketyboo. But I guess I'll find out! Do you have a proper timing test rig (bench tester) or do you just run the car at various RPM's and chart what you see with a timing light?
Well yes, there's only one pin holding the gear onto the shaft...
But no the cars not running. Good to know the Petronix parts fit the Autolite.
Having been toying with the idea of their Distributor, and the cast one is my preference. Its obviously a good unit, just the looks I'm debating.
Grumpy old git!
Last edited by mungus on Tue Aug 25, 2015 4:25 pm; edited 1 time in total
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