Having some issues with my door gaps on the 66 coupe.
Repo doors, the gap from door to quarter is good, door to rocker is very poor. The gap is very large at the back of the door and tapers right down to nearly touching the rocker at the front.
The car is on a rottisserie, is this the issue????
Ewwwwwwwwww, my doors dont look that bad, they line up beter than that. i put on the LH door and it is good and the gap at the bottom is even. so the obvious question is how do i weld the left hand door to make the gap even?
the obvious question is how do i weld the left hand door to make the gap even?
Whatever you do, what is shown in that video is absolutely the last resort. He has got himself in that bad position by incorrectly fitting or repairing the quarter panel. I have been in this trade for almost 48 years & have had to " add a weld" to probably less than 4 doors in my whole career. I can remember at least 2 & 1 was accident damaged, the other was a really badly fitted skin.
Guy, do not attempt to fit ANY panels until the shell is off the rotisserie & well supported (ie; flat & level) on the ground. You do not have a hope in hell of getting it anywhere near correct while it is mounted on the spit.
"Thank you Boofhead for the wonderful memories"
Last edited by ozbilt on Mon Aug 24, 2015 1:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
Whatever you do, what is shown in that video is absolutely the last resort.
I've seen other methods, trimming a close gap and building it back with weld (risking distorting the panel)
and getting a laser straight gap using bog.
do not attempt to fit ANY panels until the shell is off the rotisserie & well supported (ie; flat & level) on the ground.
... and fit window mechanism, door glass, etc. I've heard of guys putting in weights (simulating a complete door) to weigh down an empty door for alignment.
Again, that is all crap. There is rarely any need to "weld" on an edge. Usually solder will build up any edge closing a gap that hammering will not do. If you look at that MG TC thread I did, you will see that I used lead to form the LH door top to the correct shape (same as the factory did). Remember when watching any US video, they have not trained apprentices post WWII, so the correct method of doing things has been lost.
As for putting weights in the door, how about just put the bloody thing together (as you should do, because repro doors usually need some tweeks to make everything fit PRIOR to paint) ?
Just about every thread here where people have talked about repro door, I have advised them to COMPLETELY assemble them, to check fit & correct issues, before paint.
With your doors Guy, I recommend you completely assemble them while you chase the gaps. There are no short cuts in this process.
Tell me I am ranting, but it pisses me off when these videos promote misinformation ......
Totally agree Oz, as you know I'm a novice and always ask for advise as there are three ways to do things.
The wrong way
The easy way,
Then there is the right way, this method is usually sourced from ranting old farts who really know there stuff.
Again thanks for the info, will get right onto getting the car on all 4's.
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