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Mustang Technical Discussion > Pre 1973 > Tony's 289 Build > Community Forums > Mustang Forum Australia - Mustang Tech

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Stallion67
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boofhead wrote
The engine needs what the engine needs.


This is the best engine advice anyone can give.


Cheers, Tony.

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Shaunp
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Also mate once you foul the plugs you may as well chuck them in the bin they never come back completely and you end up having to under fuel it to clean them. Its a common mistake to chase a stumble thinking it has wrong mixture still when its just the plugs are toast. Chuck a new set at it. If the stumble is just off idle try giving it more timing which will create more vac to pull some extra fuel in and open up the idle mixtures a bit, better to have the idle a little rough but have enough fuel to bridge the mains coming in.


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Stallion67
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The next step is to get a witch doctor to dance around the car while we all chant and drink the magic potion. Then we will throw some knuckle bones and get out the ouija board.


Cheers, Tony.

Last edited by Stallion67 on Thu Jul 23, 2015 11:42 am; edited 1 time in total

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Stallion67
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Trav and i tested the fuel pressure last night. Steady at 5 - 5.5 psi. Pretty sure this rules out over pressure and flooding. Gave it a few hard revs and the floats we still constant at halfway across the sight.


Cheers, Tony.

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hybrid
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So you still have issues then?

I'd be cleaning that holley and sticking it back on as a test.


Last edited by hybrid on Fri Jul 24, 2015 9:55 am; edited 1 time in total

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boofhead
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Stallion67 wrote
The next step is to get a witch doctor to dance around the car while we all chant and drink the magic potion. Then we will throw some knuckle bones and get out the ouija board.

Can you put that solution up in YouTube - I want to see the vid. Might be applicable to all of my problems. Laughing


I will someday think of something clever to say.

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Stallion67
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hybrid wrote
So you still have issues then?

I'd be cleaning that holley and sticking it back on as a test.


Yeah thats the next step. Going to down jet the quick fuel until it pings. I want to find out where the actual point is when the engine is too lean. Up to this point it has only operated at varying degrees of richness.

After that I'll clean out the holley and put that back on as a comparison.

If she still doesnt run properly after that I'll drive the car down to Waroona to my dad's cousin who is one of the best old v8 mechanics in WA. If he cant fix it then it simply cant be fixed and I'll either drive the car off a cliff or buy an EFI windsor off gumtree.

As a side note.. the QFT instructions say the float should be half way across the sight glass when the fuel is delivered at 6.5 psi. Last night we got a reading of 5-5.5 psi. QFT say the floats need to be set higher if the fuel pressure is lower than 6.5 psi.


Cheers, Tony.

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hybrid
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I can't understand their reasoning behind that. The height of the fuel in the bowls helps to determine how much fuel is pulled into the engine.

The pressure of the fuel in the fuel line should make no difference there.

Unless that carby works differently to all the other carbs I'm familiar with, that makes no sense what so ever to me.

Also, generally a higher fuel level in the bowls will make it run richer, not leaner.

Higher fuel pressure would mean that more needle pressure is required to shut the fuel flow, so I can see why they might want the float lower.

However, if your fuel height is right, that's all that should matter.


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Stallion67
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Time for another one of Tony's stupid questions. What should be happening with the vacuum advance?

It appears the engine has 13-14 degrees initial timing, then about 34 when you check with a thumb over the vacuum hose. When the hose is plugged back in the timing jumps to around 55 degrees! Is this normal? My understanding was that the vacuum advance should die off as the engine speed increases. Is this only happening because the engine is free revving under no load?

What would be an expected amount of vacuum advance? I may adjust this right down.


Cheers, Tony.

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hybrid
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55 degrees is too much timing at any RPM.

Without load on the engine, you will probably always have some level of vacuum, but it shouldn't go that high.

What do you mean by a thumb over the hose?
Do you mean you're pulling the vacuum line off the carb, then putting your thumb over the carb side to block the hole?


Last edited by hybrid on Thu Jul 30, 2015 10:58 am; edited 1 time in total

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Stallion67
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When doing the timing without vacuum i pull the hose off the dizzy and block the hose with my thumb so the carby doesnt have a vac leak.


Cheers, Tony.

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hybrid
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Ok, no worries.
55 degrees is too high under any circumstances.
It may never get there with the vacuum line connected though.

Mid 30's is as much timing as you're going to need generally.


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Stallion67
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Yeah with my thumb over the line it gets about 34/35 degrees. With the vacuum line attached to the dizzy it goes up to 55. Seemed odd.

Maybe I'll tighten up the dizzy's vac diaphragm and see how that goes. Hard to judge vac advance without knowing what it does when the car is driving under load.


Cheers, Tony.

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hybrid
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How many RPM is it doing when you see 55 degrees?
I remember Trav talking about stops being missing from the distributor.


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Stallion67
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The stops are for the mechanical advance. The dizzy has a built in limit of 24 degrees of mechanical advance. Trav put in the stops which limit to 20 degrees. Hence why it has 14 static and 34 total without vac. The vac operates independently to this it seems.


Cheers, Tony.

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