tim i was just looking at your rear brake assembly nice work , i am doing mine at the moment too , and i think you may have missed the spring that goes on the flat piece which goes between the shoes for the handbrake and also the retaining plate which goes on the pin on the top to keep the shoes from moving forward BUT i may be wrong ! and usually am but may pay to check better to be safe than sorry
I have gone back and put the springs for the park brake lever in. They didn't supply new ones in my brake kit so I had to order them separately and went back later to install them. Not the easiest way to do it but I wanted the parts out of my way. The ones they sent are slightly different to the ones in a lot of photos online, but NPD had them listed for the 65 10inch rear drums and they seem to fit OK. I have a feeling that there are a number of springs that would be fit for purpose for this job.
Anyway after a bit of reading and looking at photos I think the backing plate is slightly different between early and later cars and the anchor plate was brought in either later on in the 66 or maybe not until the 67. Someone like Kerry or Shaun might be able to confirm or deny this as it could even possibly just be a plant to plant variation.
IN regards to part 2A787 i couldn't find as much info on it but NPD does list it for a 65 mustang so I ordered them and fitted them. Again, possibly these are actually for a slightly later model car but I am not sure.
With all that said I just want to clarify that I have not done this before so I do appreciate Shane mentioning things like this that can get missed in a large project. Clearly if anyone can add to the conversation or knows a bit more info about these few parts feel free to chime in and set the record straight as we are talking about the cars brakes and I don't won't to be misleading people about this sort of thing.
hi tim ,
hey i am just doing it like you , so only too glad to help nothing worse than getting something all together and then have a dooh ! moment to find you missed something .
i grabbed a couple of the retainer plates that go over pin from early pony parts here in bendigo and barry said you dont really need them so in the end i didnt use them more so because the repo springs must have been slightly thicker so when everything was on you couldnt get one spring to hook on.
anyway tim you are doing a fine job
OK so i got 3 and a half more days work in on the car. I had the aim of getting her back on the rotisserie by the end of it so the next time we see one another I can start prepping the engine bay and floors for paint.
I finished welding in the filler panel, the gap between it and the trunk is tight but should be able to make it work. Also welded in the bracket in the trunk for the spare tyre with a bit of help from guys on the forum but completely forgot to get a photo of it.
While I was around the back of the car (and something that in hindsight would have been easier to do on the roitisserie) I welded in the rear seat belt mounts.
I also sikaflexed in some reinforcement plates where the exhaust hangers go. There are steel floor pan sections you can buy that cover more area and fit to the pan at the back but they are a bit of a ripoff so I just used some heavy gauge steel and made up plates. I think they should spread the load enough to stop the floor cracking.
I then moved up the front of the car and sikaflexed in the extra steel plate on the cowl that the export brace bolts to. While that was drying I did a quick test fit of the rad. All the holes lined up but it does look to lean back on a fair angle. Can't see that anything is out of whack so I assume that is just how they sit? Unless you space the bottom out with a bracket?
I had spent a bit of time in the past aligning the front fenders and the bonnet but I just wanted to have a rough mock up of the front to make sure it looked like it would go together OK. Although it was pretty rough I think it was enough to see that only the bolt on panels will need work to fit up and everything underneath is good to paint. One quick Q about the headlight extensions or housing that always crack. Is it worth trying to fix the crack with some JB weld or the like, or should I just put a large srew in from the front to hold it in position, or both?
Clearly the valance on this side needs some love.
But all in all for something held together with duct tape it looks reasonable
I think it is kind of like the hot mum of the kid you went to school with. She is past her best but you can still see the potential.
That all looked pretty promising so i ripped all her clothes off panels off and moved on.
I decided a while ago to run and underdash or some other form of invisible aerial so did a quick aerial delete. Dad said it would be easier to just put a rubber grommet in the hole.
Basically since I started this project I have been humming and harring over whether or not to do the shelby drop. I didn't really like the idea of installing the wedge kit and my new lower control arms are the riveted type not the bolt in. Then there is the question over whether you really need the wedge kit for the 1" drop. Anyway when I saw Kerry's idea of just using a larger rubber bump stop and no wedge kit required, hallelujah all my question were answered. So I made up the template with the extra 3mm drop of the rear bolt and in not too long I had a result.
And miraculously the upper arm fitted perfectly
I decided for neatness that I may as well weld up the original holes and whilst I was sitting in the engine bay doing that I thought I may as well weld the towers at the same time. Now my question about the tower welds is do I need to add more weld to the inner piece of the tower with the flaired edge?
With that and after I finished off a number of other little jobs I managed to get the old girl back up on the rotisserie and ready to spin again. I still have a lot of welds to go back and clean up and there is a dent in one of the torque boxes I am still not happy with, but I can see the floors and engine bay in paint in the not to distant future. Then I can get Caroline back on the ground and on her wheels for the first time in 2 years. :
Oh..... If anyone can think of any obvious welding or the like I have missed before I start painting the floor and engine bay that will save me a lot of dollars in the swear jar.
Yes mate. thats the way they were. I think you will find that the radiator is tilted back at the same angle the motor is but is a little higher at the top tank to help with burping ths rad.
Thanks Nassi. I was pretty sure it was right but just thought I would double check as it only gets harder to fix as things progress.
Do you have any idea about whether I still need more welds on the shock towers? I don't think they are as necessary on the 65-66 models but because the car is having a few extra ponies I thought it would be some extra insurance. Been trying to find some pics but just not sure whether the narrower inside flanged piece should also be seem welded.
They are not seem welded in the race cars I used to work on and they get the crap knocked out of them and both run in excess of 500HP, never saw a crack in them.
I generally found the cracks were due to the poor maintenance of the upper control arm, the bushes seize.
PM Kerry and see what he recommends, he will have a far better idea.
Having the radiator titled back is actually a good thing. The air has more surface to contact and the tilt causes it to slow down, thereby allowing it to work better in exchanging heat into the passing air.
'68 J-code GT Fastback
'67 S-code GT coupe, 'Pink Bitz' formerly known as 'Hookin' up a brother'
'69 M_____ GTS Fastback 'Blasted'
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