C4 to AOD/E. Benefits?

[smh00n]

I have a C4 now which is an early case and leaking.

I was going to put in a TKO600 but am thinking now I can't be bothered (anyone want a full 1970 TKO600 gearbox conversion?)

I have a 347 to put in it and am not worried about power; as in, what it makes it makes. If it hit 400 I'd be happy.

Am I going to see a benefit from an AOD or AODE over the C4? Either way I'd probably want a slight stall converter about 2,000rpm, a better shift and no leaks. I have 3.55 gears to go in it so that may sway the OD box.

If there is a benefit to an AOD/E where do you buy them from as a rebuilder? Far as I can see they are a US only fitment so who brings them in here? And is it 'safe' to buy one from the likes of VPW or Enginemaster already built?
I have not done anything with an auto so not sure my first attempt at rebuilding one would succeed.

[Nuts]

I have an AOD in my 67 and love it. Changes are smoother than a C4 all except the change into OD and Out of OD, it's clunky. I build my own boxes and have installed many in Canberra. Lot's of people purchase the Silver Fox VB and are happy with it. I like their idea of a OD lockout controlled by a button. I recently picked up an AODE with the intention of using in my 67 but a quality controller was going to cost me an additional $1K so decided not to.

I'm currently running a Broader Performance VB and love it. Woke the box up. I have a 347 with around 400hp and have only routine upgrades I don't drag race but occasionally drive enthusiastically. Like you I also have a 3.5 rear but could have chosen a 3.7 to 3.9 and still have reasonable revs at highway speeds.

C4's are simple to build and can be made tough. Add a gear venders? Only mod is to your driveshaft.

Hope this helps.

Darryl

[Dwayne]

I think the later 4r70w is the best option if going electric controller, I remember Hybrid saying the ratio's were better than the AOD-E when I was looking at my options.

I've got Hybrid's old AOD box that's been beefed up, which i think just gets you to the same strength as a stock 4r70w.

[ants]

I was going to put in a TKO600 but am thinking now I can't be bothered (anyone want a full 1970 TKO600 gearbox conversion?)

quote]

18 Months ago I would have jumped at that, but now after being on Historic Rego for 2 years I've realized how little I'm driving it now and couldn't justify the expense for one extra gear.

[smh00n]

Thanks. All good intel.

I was actually thinking of an AOD, as it has higher ratios than the E box. I've always worked on high gearbox ratios with a low diff and that seems to work for me. Maybe @Hybrid can comment on the different ratio driving feel? Mine will be just a driver, maybe scare the ricers but nothing heavy duty (he says before a hot 347 gets plonked in)

Nuts if you were to sell that box you have what would it cost? And if you were to also rebuild it how much would that cost?

Gear vendors might be an option too. The box in it seems fine, just drops oil out of the selector shaft so it's not a total loss.

[Nuts]

To Build it myself it probably owes me around $3K plus the core. Remember, they are actually tougher that a C4. The only drawback is the OD Band and Lock up shaft. Limit your WOT changes into 3rd and 4th and a stock unit will go forever. I have a few rebuilt units here if your interested. But my advice is to drive a car with an AOD first. Welcome to come down to Canberra and test drive mine. Maybe you could check out Jacko's GV on his Pink Bits as well.

[Dwayne]

Here's a good video comparing the various trans:
auto restomod

[hybrid]

Mine is a 347 with a paxton. The AOD didn't like 500+ ft/lbs of torque. My box now has a LOT of mods, so lots of money in it. I recently rebuilt it again to beef up second gear, but don't know if that is strong enough now as I haven't been able to test it.
If I had my time again I would go straight to the 4R70W, but the AOD would be fine for a mild setup. Keep in mind that these were the first overdrive auto, and were built with economy in mind. In stock form they have a terrible valve body configuration for both shift points and shift pattern (search for "AOD shuffle").

At a minimum you're going to want a shift kit, if not replacement valve body. The shift kit should be one that fixes the AOD shuffle shift pattern and raises the shift points - 3rd gear is the worst for changing way too early.
The AOD has an extra input shaft that is splined straight to the front of the converter body. This gives it a "locked" converter in 3rd and 4th gear. It also means that the input shaft is weaker. I recommend switching to a non-locking converter, which makes the 3rd and 4th gear shifts feel like normal shifts, but you will lose some fuel economy ( in a V8 ) that the locking setup gives you.

The AOD has a 0.67 final drive ratio, so it's very nice on the highway. I'm running 3.89 rears in mine.
The 4R70W has 0.7 final drive, so not quite as low but still very good.

How to find one? I found all of mine on the likes of ebay. One was seized, but I didn't care because I was rebuilding anyway. The downside is, many people now know about them and it's next to impossible to pick them up cheap. I was only paying 300-400 for them back then. Now people seem to want thousands for a used one.

Edit: By the way, there's a doc in the TechZone that talks about some basic AOD upgrades that you can/should do if you're building one.
https://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/ ... id=24.html

[smh00n]

Thanks Dwayne & Hybrid. Backs up my research so far.

I think a 4R70W is for me. I like the ability to choose when it goes into 4th, which I gather the AOD won't do regardless of tweaks (Yes?).

Might have to look at buying a bunch from the US and floating them over.

[hybrid]

Thanks Dwayne & Hybrid. Backs up my research so far.

I think a 4R70W is for me. I like the ability to choose when it goes into 4th, which I gather the AOD won't do regardless of tweaks (Yes?).

Might have to look at buying a bunch from the US and floating them over.

The silverfox AOD VB (and possibly others) have the option for a lockout switch for overdrive, so yes you can control when it goes in.
Just make sure you factor in the cost of the controller (and the extra work) for the 4R70W.

[Nuts]

I have several rebuilt AOD's here. I also have a rear mount and Lokar TV cable. if anyone is interested, PM me or call me, number's in my bio.

[smh00n]

So Nuts has an AOD proposition for me which is interesting.

And I found this: http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html#vbsptr
A valve body for an AOD with an electric lock out.

Now, does anyone know where a converter for an AOD can be bought locally? I am thinking around 2,000 would suit me.

[Dwayne]

And I found this: http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html#vbsptr
A valve body for an AOD with an electric lock out.

I think Dan's backed up a fair bit at the moment, so a valve body could take months to be built. That said, I'm looking at ordering one from him so happy to combine shipping with you if you go that way.

[hybrid]

So Nuts has an AOD proposition for me which is interesting.

And I found this: http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html#vbsptr
A valve body for an AOD with an electric lock out.

Now, does anyone know where a converter for an AOD can be bought locally? I am thinking around 2,000 would suit me.

There's plenty of places that sell converters locally.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/B-M-Torque- ... SwIYteYGKY

[smh00n]

And I found this: http://www.silverfoxtrans.com/valveBodies.html#vbsptr
A valve body for an AOD with an electric lock out.

I think Dan's backed up a fair bit at the moment, so a valve body could take months to be built. That said, I'm looking at ordering one from him so happy to combine shipping with you if you go that way.

Yeah I called this morning and his voice said if you are a new customer send an email.
If I go with him I was going to get a pal in the US to post it to me which may reduce the costs. Can send one to you as well if it works.