Project Lil Blue Coupe

[Dwayne]

Sweet, looks nice, I may go down that path yet as I find the current tank a bit small.

Don't forget to triple check your welds for leaks with compressed air and a spray bottle of water and detergent (bubbles will appear), learnt that from experience, and it's no fun rewelding a tank after you have put fuel in ti as the petrol sits in all the crevices no matter how many time you rinse it. I was told the safest way then was fill it with an inert gas (Argon).

The detergent spray and air nozzle works perfectly in finding holes in a perfect looking weld

I fixed all of the tiny pinholes in the new section last Sunday to make sure it was completely sealed before welding it into the new tank. Last night we welded it into the new tank and fixed nearly all of the leaks before running out of time, certainly not just a matter of running a single weld.

I've been told to pressurize the tank with 3-5psi and spray the detergent again as a final test to make sure we didn't miss anything.

I used this MRA Sniper Big Pod

And this fitting kit: EFI Hardware

[Edz66Vert]

Hopefully the quality of the MRA super 'pod' (I think they mean pot as in swirl pot?) is better than their ad. I stopped counting at 12 spelling/grammar errors. I am always cautious buying something of an ebay seller who speaks 'chinglish'. Hopefully the quality of their product is good.

The EFI Hardware kit looks good, the combination is a lot cheaper than the other kit with the yellow foam liner, Aeropro I think?

[Dwayne]

Think it's more a case of not paying attention at school.

[Edz66Vert]

My problem is I'm still at school after 55 years being a Technology Teacher, but I get to retire at the end of next year.

[rkmiller73]

That is good work!

[Dwayne]

The megasquirt relay board is nearly finished, just need to add some power and solder the engine ground to the pad.

I swapped the board into a bigger case and I'm using ferules on the terminal black to keep the engineers at work happy

I also upgraded the 20awg wires in the stock harness to 18awg for the injectors, and 14awg for the fuel pump.

[Dwayne]

Is it worth shielding the CDI to Coil +- wires when running them within the engine harness and deutsch bulkhead fitting? I've only found a couple of posts about shielding them.

I'm only shielding the hall crank sensor wires (at one end), and running twisted pairs for all the other sensors to the ECU.

[hybrid]

I'm not sure it's a good idea to run those within your engine harness if it includes your sensors. Those CDI wires are going to be pretty noisy.

[Dwayne]

That's what I was worried about but couldn't find much online about shielding them ... so thought perhaps it was just me being paranoid and uneducated (as usual).

Is there a general rule of thumb safe distance I need to keep them away from the main EFI harness? I can just run them through another bulkhead fitting.

[hybrid]

No rule of thumb really.
Are you putting the CDI box inside the car?
If so - yeah separate connector and harness is a good idea. Then you can just move them if they're causing issues.

[Dwayne]

Either inside the car, or somewhere else I can find to hide it away.

[ozbilt]

Just make sure it is accessible. Build it "mechanic friendly".

[Dwayne]

It fits nicely on the inside of the radiator support panel, just between the radiator and battery vent holes on the RHS of the car ... but wondering if it'll be too hot there.

[unilec5544]

if it's not a completely sealed unit don't fit it in the engine bay area, fit it inside the car, these electronic units are susceptible to ingress of moisture.

[Pinto-Pete]

It fits nicely on the inside of the radiator support panel, just between the radiator and battery vent holes on the RHS of the car ... but wondering if it'll be too hot there.

Interesting position of the top radiator outlet or am I missing something...?