Edz 66 Convertible

[Pinto-Pete]

Sounds really good Mr Ed...

[Edz66Vert]

Sounds really good Mr Ed...

Yes, Nuts was over when we fired it up for the first time, he said it sounded very sweet.

Definitely a meatier sound with the bigger cam, a lot louder and lumpier than before. Sounds like I was hoping it would be originally but never was. Glad I went with the Lunati Voodoo 20350712 231/239 110 LS that was suggested on here to replace the original 218-225 that was a very dubious Chinese grind.

I've got a set of quieter mufflers which I may have to fit, looking forward to the first drive sometime in the next week.

[Edz66Vert]

So a month has passed, and I had a couple of busy weeks with work, so didn't get to the car much. However, when I fired it up a couple of weeks ago, it didn't like starting.

I set it up at either 12 degrees initially (at Michael's advice) by finding the top dead centre on compression stroke on No 1 (took rocker covers off used a pencil in the spark plug hole) and then rotating back 12 degrees. He then said put the distributor in so the rotor button is pointing to no 3. then turn the distributor until the tooth is 2/3 out of the reluctor in an anti-clockwise direction (turn the dissy body in a clockwise direction). This should get the motoring running.

So it runs, sort off but backfired a few times through the carby. Nuts suggested retarding the timing so I took about 4 degrees out and the back firing does not occur as often.

When it does backfire, I get a big puff of white smoke.

I managed to get it running, and took it for two short runs (10 minutes). Both times it varies from running smoothly to loosing power and not wanting to rev (only taking it to 3,500 as it's a new motor) but at times it struggles to get over 2,000.

It's very hard to start. I tried to start it last week, first two times it just cranked but nothing. The next 5 the starter just went click. Then I got it going and backed out. Then it stalled, and took 3 goes of a clicking starter before it cranked. That was the second run and it varied between running well and not having power. It also ran a little hot but I assume it's a new, tight motor which may cause this.

This motor previously, with the same carby, but a Chinese dissy, started first time, every time, hot or cold, winter or summer.


The other thing is, it doesn't fire until I release the key each time. the old motor also did this. I have wired it correctly I think and have checked that it does have 12v at both start and run positions.

I just started it just now, took 3 goes, and still only fires after releasing the switch on the third go.

I wonder if the starting issues are from a 50 year old ignition switch, so I have a new one to install at Nut's suggestion this weekend?

I bought a new power timing light, so I'll check what the timing is actually set to. Should I be aiming for 12 degrees initial timing? It has no vacuum advance so I don't need to unplug that.

[Nuts]

Mr Ed, sounds like a voltage problem at the coil. Why not try running 12v directly from the battery to the coil and see how it starts and runs.

[hybrid]

It also ran a little hot but I assume it's a new, tight motor which may cause this.

This is not a thing.
If the engine is tight enough that it's causing excess heat, it's bad.

Bad timing/tuning can cause it though.
The timing light won't be all that useful if you don't really know TDC.
This really should have been done with a degree wheel and a timing stop and marking the balancer before the engine went in the car.

[Edz66Vert]

I agree Nuts, but I'll change the ignition switch anyway since I have a new one I ordered last year with some other stuff as they are cheap. I'll set up a switch though, I want too be able to turn it off inside the car, don't want to risk a stuck throttle and no way of turning the motor off.

Hyrbrid, I did set the timing accurately. I made a custom pointer while the motor was out and and used a pencil to find No 1 top top dead centre with the rocker cover off to confirm I wasn't 180 out.

I'll use a timing gun to check, 12 degrees base?

Once the car is run in (and running properly) I'll get it dyno tuned and they can set it properly. Just a case of pressing buttons on the ICE box and playing with carby jets.

[Edz66Vert]

It also ran a little hot but I assume it's a new, tight motor which may cause this.

This is not a thing.
If the engine is tight enough that it's causing excess heat, it's bad.

Bad timing/tuning can cause it though.
The timing light won't be all that useful if you don't really know TDC.
This really should have been done with a degree wheel and a timing stop and marking the balancer before the engine went in the car.

Hopefully it's not a timing or tuning issue, but I'll check. I don't want to cook my new motor the same as the old motor. Who know what really caused it?

[Edz66Vert]

Been slack, haven't posted for a while as I was busy with work and didn't get to play with the car much.

My battery was getting old (6 years) so I fitted an Optima 34M blue top 800 cca which should give a lot of extra cranking. The battery clamp down plate is neat and tidy (fleebay), pity it came with two manufacturing scratches.

Also fitted an earth cutoff switch in the front panel after I saw one in another car that Nuts had done so I can kill power. I ran a separate hidden earth off this to the alarm and tracker so they still work.







Next to finish tidying wiring and start driving it to put some miles on it.

[Nuts]

Mr Ed, I did tell you that I would do it for you but No, you had to go out and do it yourself! You should have switched the Pos like I said.

[Ausjacko]

HI Ed
Looks good
Have you fired up the engine since March when it was sounding/running a bit tight?
Cheers
Jacko

[ACTstanglover]

Been slack, haven't posted for a while as I was busy with work and didn't get to play with the car much.

My battery was getting old (6 years) so I fitted an Optima 34M blue top 800 cca which should give a lot of extra cranking. The battery clamp down plate is neat and tidy (fleebay), pity it came with two manufacturing scratches.

Also fitted an earth cutoff switch in the front panel after I saw one in another car that Nuts had done so I can kill power. I ran a separate hidden earth off this to the alarm and tracker so they still work.







Next to finish tidying wiring and start driving it to put some miles on it.

I wonder where you got that idea about the cut off switch, Nuts has all the tricks, and they work

[Edz66Vert]

HI Ed
Looks good
Have you fired up the engine since March when it was sounding/running a bit tight?
Cheers
Jacko

More than that, I've put 100 km on it this week so about 200 km in total on the new motor! Sounds and goes amazingly! The new motor is scary strong, responds to the slightest throttle movement. Tim at Queanbeyan Engine Services has built me a very strong motor.

Even though it's still new, if I'm cruising at 75 k in 4th overdrive with the torque converter locked in at 1500 rpm and hit the throttle to 2/3's, it throws back to 2nd gear and 3000 rpm and lights the tyres!

This is a youtube video of a cold startup yesterday, only revved it to 2k because it was cold: V8 startup 8.9.21

I just need to get out and enjoy it a bit more and when I have another 300k on it I can get it dyno tuned to check timing curves and mixtures on the 750 Holley.

I also have to get some work on the exhaust redone by the guy who made it as it's way too low and won't pass rego.

I know I've mentioned before that I'm running a Quickshift 4 controller.

However the more I drive it, the more I love this controller. It self learns once the transmission is up to temp and is fully programmable with a laptop. It has an amazing amount of parameters I can change such as the up and downshift points, TC lockup, aggressiveness of shifts, overtemp alarm etc. Has a nice little display that shows trans temp, line pressure and can capture a data log to look at later after a drive. It has 4 different programmable tables so you can change from normal to sport to drag mode with one push of the button on the unit or a separate momentary button. If you drive aggressively, it will stay in a ‘sport’ style mode for however many seconds you program it to before it drops back to normal. First drive this week it was changing into 4th too early but it’s just a matter of grabbing the curve points and moving them to change all the up and down shift points. Next job is to finish making the flappy paddles so I can connect them.

[Edz66Vert]

Caltrac bars.

I'm thinking of replacing my old ladder bars with Caltracs because the U-bolts hit the chassis rails at the front and they are not really doing their job.

Has anyone got any negative feedback on using Caltracs?

[ozbilt]

Caltrac bars.

I'm thinking of replacing my old ladder bars with Caltracs because the U-bolts hit the chassis rails at the front and they are not really doing their job.

Has anyone got any negative feedback on using Caltracs?

Or drill and bolt the leaves, forward of the diff, together. The rear of the spring then provides the suspension travel with the front half acting as a bar. What we did on race cars in the 60's & 70's

[Edz66Vert]

That's an interesting idea Kerry, never heard of that before.