Edz 66 Convertible

[Edz66Vert]

[Edz66Vert]

Did 700k from Canberra to Sydney and back on the weekend. Got 15L/100 at 110 kmh which is 19 mpg so not bad considering the easy hp my motor produces (but I have to run 98 at $2.32/L). Around town it's 17L/100 so drops to 16.6 mpg. It will be interesting to see what the carby does.

I fitted the sniper version 1 (no tunability) and have had it on the car for 10 months now. Very happy with driveability however I can't say it drives any better than the 750 Holley I threw on out of the box and didn't touch, to the point that one day I'm putting the Holley back on to see how it compares. Two pumps and the Holley started first time everytime in Canberra's -12 winter to Summernats cruise on a 40 degree day.

I'm running an AODE, 351 stroker with 10.5:1 comp, Edelbrock performer, Headman headers, roller rockers and a Voodoo Hydraulic Roller Cam 231 239 which has a very lumpy idle even with the efi. My afr sits around 13.5 to 14 on cruise and drops to 12 on full throttle. Pulling about 480hp and 450 ft/lbs a 3000 rpm so it's very easy to light the tyres. If I hit the throttle at 80k's it kicks back from 4th to 2nd and lights the tyres.

The throttle response is crisp and clean whether I flatten it or just slowly bring it on, no hesitations, backfires or anything, but as I said, the Holley 750 carb was the same.

Cost: 2nd hand system was $1300 but I had to buy an o2 sensor $180 and then a $325 tps to give a throttle position to the Quick 4 gearbox controller for gear changes. I bought a new 80L tank and in-tank Holley efi pump and fuel gauge sender to give me extra range. Then I upgraded the fuel lines to 3/8" aluminium and added an efi fuel filter ($150). My system is returnless and works great as the pump just dumps excess fuel in the tank.

So all up $3055 compared to $900 - $600 for the 650 Holley and $300 for the fuel pump and filters.

Would do it again? No, I'd rather pocket the extra $2155 because I didn't notice any difference! That's why I'm going to put the carby back on and do a trip to compare fuel usage.

[hybrid]

13-14 is too rich for cruise IMO.
Light throttle cruise you want to throw timing at it and lean it off. 15 should be safe on light throttle cruise and will improve your mileage (if you care).
12 is also conservative for a N/A engine on load. You'd be fine at 12.5

I completely agree that the "set and forget" bolt on systems are not worth the money over a well set up carb and distributor. '
But I'd also argue that most people don't know how to properly set up either of them.

The benefit of EFI comes from properly tuning it. You just don't have the same level of granularity with a carb or distributor.
I'm in the opposite position to you. My coupe has been injected since I built it. Now I've bought the fastback that's pretty standard, but brawler and air gap manifold and it's just not in the same league.

[Edz66Vert]

I'm running gen1 MSD Atomic and they say to set it at 14.7 (Stoich) for cruising?

I can set/adjust:
- A/F Targets (forgot I could change these - I'll have a play)
- Idle speed
- Cam type
- Timing Control (if I had an Ignition Control Module)
- Rev Limit
- Engine Displacement
- Fuel Pump Type
- Idle RPM Target
- Pump Squirt
- Power Valve Enrich

They say: A/F Targets: The Atomic provides an option to set an air/fuel target for Idle, Part Throttle, Wide Open (WOT), Nitrous and Boost. The Atomic will use its self-learning technology to adjust the fuel delivery to meet the target air/fuel ratio. The values are adjusted in 0.1 increments and range from rich at 10:1 to leaner at 16:1. The ideal air/fuel ratio for cruising is called stoichiometric and is commonly referred as a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. I think I just set the default in the pic below, I'll have a play tomorrow.



I'll bump cruise to 15 and see how it goes, I think I've just fouled some plugs again because it's running like a chaff cutter and all the plug leads are tight. 7 & 8 fall off every now and again so I have glove behind the seat o refit them while the motor is hot. I think I've finally crimped them tight enough to stay on.

Runs off a Wide Band O2 and an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

I do want to put it on a dyno again to set timing, probably do it in 2 weeks in Hume. Put it on the dyno at Gastune about 6 months ago but it just spun the tyres at 3000 rpm even at 28psi because I have around 450 ft/lbs at 3000 (480hp). I'm going to try Michelin Pilot Sport 4's because they're not very dear and a lot stickier than the Dunlop SP Sports I have now. If I flatten the throttle at 80k's it kicks back to 2nd and lights both tyres.

[Edz66Vert]

I'm in the opposite position to you. My coupe has been injected since I built it. Now I've bought the fastback that's pretty standard, but brawler and air gap manifold and it's just not in the same league.

Hybrid, when you ' it's just not in the same league', what do you mean? Worse or better than efi?

I'm tempted to throw the 750 on just to see how mine goes for comparison. Also, mine has a divider in the Edelbrock performer, and I read on the MSD site that it doesn't like it, the cylinder balance gets upset, they say I should mill it down 20mm.

[Edz66Vert]

So looking for pics of a '66 with a Boss 260/290. I want to see how tight it is as they are 780mm wide, 132mm wider than a Clevo and 94mm wider than
460, 19mm wider tan a 429/427.Has anyone fitted the 6 speed auto or is the manual smaller? This is one in an XF but RRS say with their notched towers, it will fit into a 66 Mustang.


This is a good article https://www.streetmachine.com.au/featur ... o-old-ford

OK, so I bought another '66 on the weekend, couldn't resist it. The guys had it for sale for a couple of years, started at $38k, has tons of new parts plus all RRs front suspension, big brakes and power rack, dash converted to RHD (5th one he's done) but not welded in so it scared a lot of people off. T code with no running gear but that doesn't worry me, I'm looking to swap all the running gear from my convertible into it and fit a Boss260/290 to the convertible. Most rust fixed, new rear quarters and floors, new plenum to go in with the RHD dash. I paid $19k for it so I think that was a steal.

Here it is wrapped up, I'm not touching it for 2 to 3 years.

[Rayatswan]

That looks like a good starting place for a cool car.
Would you be able to take some close up pictures of where the dash meets the A pillar please, like this, when I seperated the panels I forgot to take pictures of the correct shape, thanks in advance

[hybrid]

I'm running gen1 MSD Atomic and they say to set it at 14.7 (Stoich) for cruising?

I can set/adjust:
- A/F Targets (forgot I could change these - I'll have a play)
- Idle speed
- Cam type
- Timing Control (if I had an Ignition Control Module)
- Rev Limit
- Engine Displacement
- Fuel Pump Type
- Idle RPM Target
- Pump Squirt
- Power Valve Enrich

They say: A/F Targets: The Atomic provides an option to set an air/fuel target for Idle, Part Throttle, Wide Open (WOT), Nitrous and Boost. The Atomic will use its self-learning technology to adjust the fuel delivery to meet the target air/fuel ratio. The values are adjusted in 0.1 increments and range from rich at 10:1 to leaner at 16:1. The ideal air/fuel ratio for cruising is called stoichiometric and is commonly referred as a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio. I think I just set the default in the pic below, I'll have a play tomorrow.



I'll bump cruise to 15 and see how it goes, I think I've just fouled some plugs again because it's running like a chaff cutter and all the plug leads are tight. 7 & 8 fall off every now and again so I have glove behind the seat o refit them while the motor is hot. I think I've finally crimped them tight enough to stay on.

Runs off a Wide Band O2 and an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.

I do want to put it on a dyno again to set timing, probably do it in 2 weeks in Hume. Put it on the dyno at Gastune about 6 months ago but it just spun the tyres at 3000 rpm even at 28psi because I have around 450 ft/lbs at 3000 (480hp). I'm going to try Michelin Pilot Sport 4's because they're not very dear and a lot stickier than the Dunlop SP Sports I have now. If I flatten the throttle at 80k's it kicks back to 2nd and lights both tyres.

Ok, I didn't realise that was all the tuning you can do on one of those things. You might find 15 is too lean depending on the range they consider "cruise", but targeting stoic there is definitely wasting fuel.

Usually when I'm doing highway cruise fueling, I'll lean it off until it doesn't like it, then put some fuel back in until it's smooth again. Not sure if I have a log of mine "cruising", but it was always in the 15's. Most of my logs were testing AFR under boost.

On a performance engine, I'd probably either go full EFI or just stick to carb/dissy. I would never trust that I'm getting the best out of an engine with such restrictive tuning. Especially if it's fuel only and no ignition tuning.

Here's the AFR table from a budget multipoint EFI computer (Megasquirt 2). The granularity even on that ECU is chalk and cheese to the sniper.
(And look at the cruise targets)

[Edz66Vert]

That looks like a good starting place for a cool car.
Would you be able to take some close up pictures of where the dash meets the A pillar please, like this, when I separated the panels I forgot to take pictures of the correct shape, thanks in advance

No problem, do you mean my 66 convertible or the 66 coupe - it has no dash in it, well it odes, it's in the back seat?

I'll have to unwrap it but I was going to do that anyway, I want to take pics of the RHD dash Glen built (front and back). It's his 5th one and he said he was very happy with the outcome. I'll probably use it in my car and convert his firewall back to LHD when I put all my pieces in it.

I got some lovely 200mm wheels today for $80 on eBay, 2 day delivery with eBay plus, so I can move it around easier than the 100's that were on it. I end is fixed so I can steer it, 4 x 360deg x 100mm castors made it hard to move around.

[Edz66Vert]

Ok, I didn't realise that was all the tuning you can do on one of those things. You might find 15 is too lean depending on the range they consider "cruise", but targeting stoic there is definitely wasting fuel.

Usually when I'm doing highway cruise fueling, I'll lean it off until it doesn't like it, then put some fuel back in until it's smooth again. Not sure if I have a log of mine "cruising", but it was always in the 15's. Most of my logs were testing AFR under boost.

On a performance engine, I'd probably either go full EFI or just stick to carb/dissy. I would never trust that I'm getting the best out of an engine with such restrictive tuning. Especially if it's fuel only and no ignition tuning.

Here's the AFR table from a budget multipoint EFI computer (Megasquirt 2). The granularity even on that ECU is chalk and cheese to the sniper.
(And look at the cruise targets)

Hybrid - Your table looks similar to the EMS8600 computer I had running my twin turbo 1UZ in my EH, that was easy to move things around too.

Yes, the efi I have is he first version but it will do timing as well. I got it for a good price but may sell it and buy the later version or a megasquirt, or even just put the 750 Holley back on, it ran sweet. I'm keen to just try it to do back to ack on response and fuel economy.

I do have the option of adding timing control. I have the ICE ignition system, I rang Michael yesterday to ask if it works like the MSD and I can connect it to the MSD Atomic input to control timing, but I rang to late so I'll ring him today.

I did jump in and change the settings to 15 for cruise, 14.7 idle and left the others alone, but I ope 15 is not to high, it was on 14 for cruise?

I've got to put finish putting new plugs in today as I've either fouled a plug or damaged a lead, it's running like a chaff cutter, like it's dropped a lead or two off yet they are all tight?

[Edz66Vert]

That looks like a good starting place for a cool car.
Would you be able to take some close up pictures of where the dash meets the A pillar please, like this, when I seperated the panels I forgot to take pictures of the correct shape, thanks in advance

My car's all together so you can't see much.

[hybrid]

You won't hurt anything being a bit too lean on cruise because there's no load on the engine.
If it doesn't like it, it will either run a bit hot (depending on your cooling system etc) or the engine will hunt (kind of like a surging feeling).

[Edz66Vert]

Run hot - that's funny, it always does! I'll keep an eye out for the hunting. Thanks for the input. Ed

[Edz66Vert]

Changed the af ratios, so far running well. Numbers are higher, 14-15 on light throttle, 13 under load.

[hybrid]