Edz 66 Convertible

[Edz66Vert]

I'm setting up the MSD and it controls my two fans independently? What temp should I set them to come on?

I think I have the Milodon 180F (82C) high flow thermostat in at the moment?

[Edz66Vert]

I'm having trouble getting my motor running after fitting an MSD Atomic efi. It only handles fuel and the ICE ignition handles spark.

Part A:

The ICE ignition was running perfectly when the motor was running 12 months ago before I fitted the MSD.

Wiring: I have a brand new ICE ignition wiring harness connected externally to take this out of the equation. It has 2 wires running to the coil, 3 wires on a plug to connect the distributor and an earth to the engine block. I also have a second brand new ignition box to test with. I have a direct wire feed from the battery to take that out of the equation, pink wire long gone.

When I kick it over, I get spark once (timing light and external spark plug). She fires and then shuts down after about 2 or 3 seconds. Then when I crank it again I get nothing. I then wait 5 minutes and it repeats this.

I've left the ignition on and checked the temp of the hall effect switch in the dissy and it's 21 deg max.

I've connected a Bosch coil I had (at Michael from ICE's recommendation), same thing happens.

Part B:

Now I've put a Motorcraft Points dizzy in to test if it's the ICE playing up and I'm having trouble with that.

I have the Bosch coil wired to the positive and negative wires coming off the points.

My problem is, when I put positive to the positive terminal on the coil with the points closed I get a dead short. The wire going into the dissy starts to smoke and it even trips a 30amp breaker?

I've tested the points out of the dissy and they don't short internally?

I'm pulling my hair out!

[Edz66Vert]

Update:

Checked the coils I have and they are non-resistor type.

I've given up on the points dizzy.

Talked to Michael when I first had problems and he suggested I try the Bosch coil I had. I wanted to make sure it wouldn't damage the ICE ignition computer.

The ICE is very easy to wire, two wires labelled for the coil, one 3 pin plug for the distributor and an earth wire that must go to the engine. There are 2 other wires on mine for tacho and two-step rev limiting.

I initially thought it might be the harness I had wired in so now all my testing is with a brand new, spare harness I have and no change.
I'm connecting the coil/ICE Ignition power feed to a direct feed from the battery.

I've pulled the dizzy and connected it to a sparkplug that was sitting out and earthed.
If I connect it to the coil and spin the dizzy, I get a continuous series of fat sparks (the coil/box uses 7 amps).

If I just connect the plug to a lead from the dizzy, I get a single spark every rotation.
Now the dizzy is in, I still get the single spark for each rotation during cranking.

Now that I've put it all back, when I kick it in the guts, it fires up once each time and then shuts off straight off. I can hear the fuel pump kick in and shot off when the computer turns it off.

At least now I get spark all the time.

I checked the diagnostics on the MSD hand controller and it says all ok?

[Edz66Vert]

So after 3 1/2 months of frustration, my Mustang finally fired into life with the MSD Atomic EFI 2910 Throttle Body, thanks to the help of my mate Craig in the ACT Street Machine Car Club.

I'm running the MSD Atomic EFI 2910 Throttle Body and ICE ignition and for the last few months it would fire once and shut off and wouldn't fire for 5 mins. Michael at ICE kept telling me to pull the efi off and use a carby since it was running with a carby before.

I fitted the spare ICE harness I had, one kick and shuts off. But at least it would continually do this, obviously I've damaged the original ICE harness with cutting and lengthening it to try and mount it in the car away from water.

I fitted the carby this week and it fired right up so I know the ICE wasn't the problem.

However, when I removed the throttle body, the 3 wires in the tach in and out plug fell out of the plug, this explains why it was getting no signal.

I refitted the efi and again, fires once, then dies, no timing signal, even though it was wired up. I back probed the plug and found a high resistance through the plug so I pulled out the tach pin and plugged it together outside of the 3 pin plug. Fired up, showed a tach signal, but as soon as I let the starter button go, it died, no signal. Bought a Jaycar Multimeter that measures HZ and same thing, no signal once I let the start button go.

I hotwired everything directly to a battery - MSD, coil, ICE - no difference.

Then I rang my mate who's installed 20 of these and he said 'run the msd tach wire directly to the negative of the coil'. I did it while he was on the phone as I was leaning over the engine bay and it fired up and ran!

I'll be blowed!

So now rough wiring in the new second ICE harness.

[Nuts]

About Time!

[Edz66Vert]

That's what I said, with a few expletive's thrown in.

Took it for 2 test drives of 30k, tonight I'm taking my girl for a 100k run so hopefully no breakdowns! At least I have NRMA top cover if there's a problem.

Got the ice and msd in and tidied up, just need to make a waterproof clear cover for the ice top third.

The fuses and relays are all hidden behind a panel where the battery used to sit and I can remove it on the road and lay it on the guard if there's a problem. Just have to build a dummy aluminium cover for it.

[Nuts]

No more Birdsnests! Well Done Mr Ed

[Edz66Vert]

Yes and No, still a birdsnest under the dash while I find buckets and build a console.

The panel has it all together in the old battery location but still way too much happening in there. Only difference is you can't see it and I can unscrew the cover on the road and test and fix things live if there's a problem. I'm covering it with an aluminium panel to tidy it up.

I'd like to rewire the car down the track as it's a mess with too many people adding and removing random bits over the years. I'd love to do a rhd conversion with new suspension but I think I'll just aim to paint it bit by bit over the next year, colour change to the blue Nuts car was painted keeping the white stripe.

Did 180k in her last week in 2 nights.



I took her out to the Mustang Show at Erindale last Sunday. Away this week but when I get back I'm just going to drive the doors off it for a while and enjoy it because it's been off the road more than on the road in the last 5.5yrs of ownership.

[Nuts]

Well done Mr Ed. I have some buckets that may suit you.. Of course the price will be very expensive.

[Edz66Vert]

Well done Mr Ed. I have some buckets that may suit you.. Of course the price will be very expensive.

It always is!

Cool, I'll come past for a cuppa next week when I'm back. I'll grab that old front bar too so I can fit the spoiler if that's ok?

[hybrid]

Good to see it out on the road.

[Edz66Vert]

So I think I finally fixed my overheating and I've been getting out driving it a bit more.
I'll have to try and find tyres stickier than my Dunlop SP sports, they can't handle the torque of the stroker. I looked at track tyres, but they need a couple of laps to warm up and would probably be even worse a s a street tyre. I'm limited to a 17"/ 225 -245.

[Edz66Vert]

So I've bought some electric power steering units to play with and will look at giving the old girl EPS since I have to get it engineered anyway soon. I'm going to see how much torque it takes to turn the current wheel as i have conversion figures before and after to compare. Then I'll wire up the eps units and check they go to fail safe mode when the don't get a can bus signal so that they will work. After that I'll play with some 10k pots and see how varying the 5v signal works.

I've done a lot of reading, I think people underestimate the load on the dash when they remove the support provided at firewall where the column goes through. Most people grab the wheel to help get in and out of the vehicle and without something to take this load, it's all on the dash because the support provided at firewall where the column used to go through has gone.

The other thing is, you must have a collapsible steering to get it engineered. The Yanks fit heaps of these with no thought to extra reinforcing, no collapsible steering and most of them weld all the steering pieces which is a big no no unless xrayed.

However, I don't think it's unachievable so I'm going to have a go. Love to have input when I start.

I've got 2011 Corolla and 08 Mazda 2 units. I've got the diagram to make a simple potentiometer controller to vary assistance from max to min and also ordered a pre-made eBay control unit from another car to see if I can adapt it.

[Edz66Vert]

So, I bought an EA ute diff today to try to adapt the discs to my rear end. This is it minus the callipers as I removed them and tried to get the discs off but ended up talking it all home to do it at home as it was getting dark.


I figured if I have to get it all engineered, I may as well fit electric power steer and rear discs. I bought the diff on marketplace from a backyard wrecker for $150. Only condition was, I had to pull it out myself. 2 hours work with a bunch of tools and a battery angle grinder to cut the diff ubolts and all good, even loaded it on the trailer by myself. I hope it fits like the posts I read on the Ea-Ed diff by scott66stang. BTW, has he disappeared, last post on this was 2014?

I cleaned up the article as he had a lot of useful bits on this conversion. 'EA ED Disc rear end'

This is the direct link: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1u07vO1 ... sp=sharing

[Edz66Vert]

I posted this in the general space, but I wanted to add it to my build.

I've had halo's on for about 6 years but most of the eBay lights have a terrible beam pattern. I finally found 2 that work with good DRL and great beam. I was about to outlay AU$400 on Stedi lights which have a guaranteed good light output and rave reviews but I came across an eBay light I bought for $127 which I'm very impressed with, I would say it's 80-90% the quality beam of a Stedi. This is the links to the eBay light and Stedi (they have 3, but only one is a drl). I noticed it's $156 now but bulk buy is cheaper. I posted pics of the light below for when the ebay link disappears. The light on eBay is called 'Pair 7''Inch 210W Round LED Headlights Hi/Lo Beam DRL Headlamps for GQ PATR'.

The light pattern on the road is great with a good cut-off on low beam and I don't get flashed by anyone. High beam has a great spot and lights up the road. You can see in the shots of my headlights how bright they are even on low beam. I'm going to disable my indicators and just use the headlights as they are very bright and one side had a slight timing issue.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/394702625856

https://www.stedi.com.au/stedi-7-inch-h ... -pair.html